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Post by jstich on Aug 25, 2021 22:33:45 GMT -5
A couple of times my scoot would suddenly stop running while driving.It would always start back up but the last time it did it I was 5 miles from home.It has 7400 miles and I've never adjusted the valves.I thought I'd get a warning like running rough telling me it was time to adjust them.Can the valves suddenly get knocked out of spec while running great and then it dies until you adjust the valves?
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Post by scooter7878 on Aug 26, 2021 0:38:20 GMT -5
Usually the exhaust valve starts to tighten up over time valve adjustment can give all kinds of issues including no start,loss of power, rough running,and they can give intermittent issues like that. As the engine heats up the clearance gets smaller and can give y stalling while hot. Weather that's ur issue or not it can't hurt to do it it def needs to be done at that miles ur way over due. I do mine every oil change which I change my oil and adjust valves every 1000 miles. By the time ur having issues from valve clearance u have already lost power and it can cause other issues the small amount of time the valve contact the seat believe it or not the contact with head is cooling the valve and also when it gets tight it's open longer and more which can burn valves from too much hot exhaust gas. The power loss is hard to feel bc it happens slowly I we a long period of time so u don't notice it bc it doesn't just happen all at once
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Post by aeroxbud on Aug 26, 2021 7:09:36 GMT -5
Brent has a good tutorial.
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Post by jstich on Sept 4, 2021 2:34:50 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips.So I did my first ever valve check.They were set at .003 after 7400 miles.I re did the exhaust valve just for the exercise.I checked everything about 4 times so I'm confident I was doing it right.Since I had the fan assembly off I checked my reluctor to pickup gap.It was set to like .035. I tried to adjust it to .010 but after tightening it would go back to the bigger gap.I don't think that was the problem though.
I have gas sloshing in the tank,I got gas flow after the new fuel filter when kicking it.I have a white or blue spark when tested.I forgot to get starting fluid at the store so if I spray some starting fluid directly into the cylinder thru the spark plug hole then quickly install the plug and kick it over it should sound like it wants to start if the ignition is ok? Also Would I get a good spark if my coil was bad? I'm starting to suspect the stock carb is plugged.Another walk to o reallys to get starting fluid.
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Post by scooter7878 on Sept 4, 2021 3:44:41 GMT -5
Take air filter hose off carb and spray it through the carb hold the throttle open and spray a bit through carb than kick using the kick u should at least hear it try to start the electric starter works better for that but it should either start and stall or run for a couple seconds or at least should hear like it wants to start like a sputter. Did u happen to look at the cam marks while u had valve cover off for valve adjustment to be sure the chain didn't jump
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Post by jstich on Sept 4, 2021 5:17:55 GMT -5
I forgot to mention it passed the thumb compression test.The only cam marks I dealt with is I did have to turn the crank to get the 2 holes in the cam gear parallel with the head surface along with the 1 hole in cam gear at the top. It was just like Brent's video. A bit of 'slop' moving the crank that doesn't move the rocker arms when in the proper position.Couple hours til store opens.
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Post by geoffh on Sept 4, 2021 7:24:33 GMT -5
(2cents)if you have any doubts about your coil get a new one,cheap enough and good to have a spare,coils can have poor performance before they fail.
Geoff
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Post by jstich on Sept 4, 2021 10:07:13 GMT -5
Sew...At the beginning of this season I accidentally hooked the battery up reversed for a few seconds.After that I'd get a clicking only noise from trying the electric start.So I've been kickstarting it and the scoot was mostly running great for about 3 months.So then I got stranded and decided to get a battery charger to get the electric start to work again while getting the no start situation fixed.It was on the battery tender for about 9 hours so I put it in tge scoot to complete the circuit.I tried the electric starter and didn't get a click.Fine. I thought I didn't need a charged battery to run the scoot.
Then I went on to spray starter fluid in the air input of the carb.Kicked it over and it started.Great!It wanted to die but I kept it running for a bit with the throttle and it settled into a high idle.
I let it run for a while but didn't quite get it to operating temp cuz the fan shroud was off and I didn't want to risk it overheating.I guess a battery does more than just start the scooter on a 4T scooter?Also my headlights don't work quite right and my brake light has never worked even before the battery screw up.The front and back blinkers work fine when running.Do I get a new rectifier that attaches to the front plate of the scoot?
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Post by geoffh on Sept 4, 2021 13:52:09 GMT -5
Headlamps on small scoots are usually dim/flicker at idle speeds just live with that.
Brake light needs sorting be aware there are many different bulbs that will fit there check the pins and contacts for your scoot thePO may have fitted a wrong bulb.
The most common starter system fail is the relay replace yours $10 auto shop,but the system is complex and includes the brake switches to function.
Geoff
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Post by scooter7878 on Sept 4, 2021 15:41:59 GMT -5
U probably blew the fuse at the battery when u connected it reverse there should be a glass fuse in a holder right around the battery coming off the POS it's in the little wire from positive I'd check that and report back if blown and what works/doesn't work still. With the starter if still not working depending on fuse if u go to starter solenoid there's 2 small wires and 2 large wires. One of the small wires will get batt POS with the brake pulled and I e grounds from the starter button . One fat wire is from batt POS and the other one goes to starter. If the brake lights aren't working I don't believe the starter will. U can also use a screw driver and jump the two big studs in the solenoid together if the starter is good it will start than u will just have to diag what ur missing to solonoid power or ground from either switch or a bad solonoid. Hold the brake when u jump the studs bc if it starts u don't want it to take off. So forest check glass fuse. Replace if blown and recheck what works. Step 2 use test light or volt meter. One small wire in solonoid will power brake pulled and no power brake off. One small wire will ground when starter button is pressed. With the running issue if it started and ran with fluid ur issue is in carb that verified spark and compression is at least enough to run if u have fuel coming steady from filter to carb ur issue is inside the carb
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Post by jstich on Sept 5, 2021 13:54:46 GMT -5
Yes I'm used to vehicle lights dimming when @ idle.The rear brake light hasn't worked since I got it new from the factory.The running brake light works.I got a replacement rear bulb and it still didn't work.And surprisingly the fuse isn't blown. Thanks for the help but the electric start is secondary. I don't want to be stranded 5 miles from home again.
As I said I thought even a dead battery will let the scooter run but the only difference in it running now is my charged battery.So I need to get the charging system up to par.
The safety switches are working. At the switch and jumping the terminals I get a low hum type sound. But I'm more worried about the charging system right now so I don't get stranded.
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