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Post by kato69 on Jun 5, 2022 17:37:11 GMT -5
Well so I just recently purchased this I got It at a garage sale for steal. I remember having a Moped when I was younger and my brother was always the person that worked on it and I wish then I would’ve listened and watched because now I have no idea what I’m doing. I’m learning from YouTube,Reddit, to ScooterSwapShop and I bought & downloaded the manual for my Moped. So I got that going, but even some of the things on that I question like what tools i will need to tear down and replace engine. It has a list of them but none of them are available anymore, so I don’t know exactly what tools I need, I know some of the tools you don’t need anymore, now I can just use an impact to take them off but any and all help is encouraged anything from carburetor help what size of crankshaft,bearings, clutch, or variator I should get any and all because I plan on putting at least 70cc motor in it this moped, she is 33 years old 😂
And I mean so far all I’ve done is disassembled the plastics, taken the carburetor off and cleaned it, took the air box off, the transmission case, and exhaust. this manual is surely going to help but I just need to know what all I need. Or should get.
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Post by drumstyx on Jun 6, 2022 9:36:14 GMT -5
You don't need to replace the engine to put a 70 on it, that's just a top end. You can/might want to replace the crankshaft, but even that you don't NEED to do on a normal sport cylinder. Working on the motor might be (definitely is) easier with it removed from the bike and up on a bench though, so it's essentially the same process as an "engine swap" just that you're putting the same engine (modified) back in. All told, you'll need: cylinder with head, an exhaust system to really get anywhere with it, and possibly a bigger carburetor. Special tools? Well a rotor holder does help, but it doesn't have to be Yamaha's listed special tool, you can pick them up at Harbor Freight (or Princess Auto, if you're in Canada) for cheap. If you ARE replacing the crank, you'll need a puller to split the cases, as well as a puller to pull the crankshaft in (but like I said, you probably don't have to unless you're going mid-race or higher). These tools *can* be expensive, and even the Tusk brand one isn't perfect in its design, sideloading the bearings. I made my own by welding together a couple nuts, with a carriage bolt, and some plumbing parts...but I digress, you probably don't need this. Everything else is basic hand tools....and somewhat deep pockets, because as cheap as these parts are relative to other motorsports, it's still not free...ya might drop a grand before you know it  |
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Post by kato69 on Jun 9, 2022 12:30:20 GMT -5
You don't need to replace the engine to put a 70 on it, that's just a top end. You can/might want to replace the crankshaft, but even that you don't NEED to do on a normal sport cylinder. Working on the motor might be (definitely is) easier with it removed from the bike and up on a bench though, so it's essentially the same process as an "engine swap" just that you're putting the same engine (modified) back in. All told, you'll need: cylinder with head, an exhaust system to really get anywhere with it, and possibly a bigger carburetor. Special tools? Well a rotor holder does help, but it doesn't have to be Yamaha's listed special tool, you can pick them up at Harbor Freight (or Princess Auto, if you're in Canada) for cheap. If you ARE replacing the crank, you'll need a puller to split the cases, as well as a puller to pull the crankshaft in (but like I said, you probably don't have to unless you're going mid-race or higher). These tools *can* be expensive, and even the Tusk brand one isn't perfect in its design, sideloading the bearings. I made my own by welding together a couple nuts, with a carriage bolt, and some plumbing parts...but I digress, you probably don't need this. Everything else is basic hand tools....and somewhat deep pockets, because as cheap as these parts are relative to other motorsports, it's still not free...ya might drop a grand before you know it I really appreciate the feedback I mean I just ordered a 70cc big bore kit. I was just kind a wanted to eventually get everything a little bit newer or better on it but I didn’t know if Ike say putting that 70 mL motor in it if I need to replace the transmission clutch all that good stuff. Lol bear with me if I get wording wrong. I hope you get what I’m saying though. I just really didn’t wanna fuck anything up like if I’m riding and then I go to give it some gas and then the piston shoots up my ass or the crank case explodes gears out. |
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Post by drumstyx on Jun 10, 2022 12:17:01 GMT -5
All good mate, we all start somewhere! Heck, I only started with scoots a few months ago, I just have an obsessive personality and a couple decades of mechanical experience behind me  What big bore kit did you order? You 10000% need a performance exhaust for most kits. Well, it's not going to explode, but it'll be the difference between *maybe* a 10% increase in power (quite possibly LESS power than stock, actually) and easily 25%+ power increase. Of course, one thing always leads to another: you'll want an aftermarket variator, or at the very least lighter variator roller weights to make the transmission "shift" at the higher RPMs that the performance exhaust will work best at. Heavier clutch springs too, to keep it from engaging until you're at said higher RPM. You can go budget in the transmission if you want -- just lighter roller weights (maybe ideally a set), clutch springs, and possibly stronger contra-spring (aka torque spring), but IMO you'll probably end up wanting that performance variator at a minimum, as the larger weights will allow greater range, thus higher top speed. BBK + exhaust + a couple jets to try in the carb should get you somewhere pretty nice to start though. |
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Post by kato69 on Jun 11, 2022 14:54:07 GMT -5
All good mate, we all start somewhere! Heck, I only started with scoots a few months ago, I just have an obsessive personality and a couple decades of mechanical experience behind me What big bore kit did you order? You 10000% need a performance exhaust for most kits. Well, it's not going to explode, but it'll be the difference between *maybe* a 10% increase in power (quite possibly LESS power than stock, actually) and easily 25%+ power increase. Of course, one thing always leads to another: you'll want an aftermarket variator, or at the very least lighter variator roller weights to make the transmission "shift" at the higher RPMs that the performance exhaust will work best at. Heavier clutch springs too, to keep it from engaging until you're at said higher RPM. You can go budget in the transmission if you want -- just lighter roller weights (maybe ideally a set), clutch springs, and possibly stronger contra-spring (aka torque spring), but IMO you'll probably end up wanting that performance variator at a minimum, as the larger weights will allow greater range, thus higher top speed. BBK + exhaust + a couple jets to try in the carb should get you somewhere pretty nice to start though. Okay great, so I’m trying to find what parts will work or what I can get away with. It says long version for the transmission but I can’t find a reference anywhere to what it has stock. This bike is essentially bone stock from 33 years ago. But I’m finding all the greas,oils,and tools needed. And then I’m about to find parts. I think I’ll get a carb,transmission, variator kit, I’ll look for exhaust but dang they’re more than the working mechanical stuff. Thank you again for your advice. |
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Post by kato69 on Jun 19, 2022 13:10:02 GMT -5
All good mate, we all start somewhere! Heck, I only started with scoots a few months ago, I just have an obsessive personality and a couple decades of mechanical experience behind me What big bore kit did you order? You 10000% need a performance exhaust for most kits. Well, it's not going to explode, but it'll be the difference between *maybe* a 10% increase in power (quite possibly LESS power than stock, actually) and easily 25%+ power increase. Of course, one thing always leads to another: you'll want an aftermarket variator, or at the very least lighter variator roller weights to make the transmission "shift" at the higher RPMs that the performance exhaust will work best at. Heavier clutch springs too, to keep it from engaging until you're at said higher RPM. You can go budget in the transmission if you want -- just lighter roller weights (maybe ideally a set), clutch springs, and possibly stronger contra-spring (aka torque spring), but IMO you'll probably end up wanting that performance variator at a minimum, as the larger weights will allow greater range, thus higher top speed. BBK + exhaust + a couple jets to try in the carb should get you somewhere pretty nice to start though. Well I believe I got in over my head on this one I have it all torn apart it was going smooth got the first crank case bearing in on the big side and then small side got hung up so I tried to tap it in, and it went in crooked. so I thought I’d use the crank case puller and pull the crank on the side, and then pull the bearing with it. to which did not happen. Now I’m sorta stuck. I’m going to have to buy a bearing puller now. Because I have no idea how or what to do. I didn’t realize how hard that single part would be if it got messed up. Both bearings end d up on the crank so I tried freezing that and trying to heat it up. I just couldn’t get it hot enough again. |
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Post by aeroxbud on Jun 19, 2022 13:18:32 GMT -5
If the bearings are anything but a small bit off square, it's best to just start again. They will serve tight if you try and force them on.
Once you have put a lot of force on the inner bearing it's best to replace it.
So both bearings are now stuck on the crank?
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Post by kato69 on Jun 19, 2022 13:20:49 GMT -5
If the bearings are anything but a small bit off square, it's best to just start again. They will serve tight if you try and force them on. Once you have put a lot of force on the inner bearing it's best to replace it. So both bearings are now stuck on the crank? yes that’s where I’m at now. |
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Post by aeroxbud on Jun 19, 2022 13:27:00 GMT -5
If the bearings are anything but a small bit off square, it's best to just start again. They will serve tight if you try and force them on. Once you have put a lot of force on the inner bearing it's best to replace it. So both bearings are now stuck on the crank? yes that’s where I’m at now. If they are all the way on, you can pull them into the heated cases. But I'm guessing they are not. 😞 It's such a tight fit to the crank trying to heat them on there won't work. Perhaps you never quite got the cases hot enough putting the bearing in? |
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Post by kato69 on Jun 19, 2022 13:47:17 GMT -5
yes that’s where I’m at now. If they are all the way on, you can pull them into the heated cases. But I'm guessing they are not. 😞 It's such a tight fit to the crank trying to heat them on there won't work. Perhaps you never quite got the cases hot enough putting the bearing in? no I think that was the problem too. But the bearings are/seem to be completely on shaft. However I think I might just buy a bearing puller, and retry. Also might buy a heat gun, seems better then a torch. I never knew how to do any of this going into it. I’m YouTubing and trying to refer to the manual. 🤷🏻♂️ It’s worked up until that dang bearing. |
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Post by repherence2 on Jun 19, 2022 14:38:58 GMT -5
no I think that was the problem too. But the bearings are/seem to be completely on shaft. However I think I might just buy a bearing puller, and retry. Also might buy a heat gun, seems better then a torch. I never knew how to do any of this going into it. I’m YouTubing and trying to refer to the manual. 🤷🏻♂️ It’s worked up until that dang bearing.
there is so much information, threads, and pics of the bearing/crank installation on this forum. if you search and read, everything you need to know on how to install bearings and cranks can be found here on this forum. i guess at some point we all have hastily jumped into the 2 stroke fire, however being able to recover from mistakes is what makes the biggest difference.
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Post by aeroxbud on Jun 19, 2022 14:54:30 GMT -5
A heat gun is a good idea. I also use an infrared thermometer. It really takes the guess work out of it.
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Post by kato69 on Jun 19, 2022 19:03:30 GMT -5
A heat gun is a good idea. I also use an infrared thermometer. It really takes the guess work out of it. I ordered that should be here by next weekend I’m thinking I should go ahead and order new bearings don’t know if I need to there’s no wobble to them at all but I mean I still do have to pull them off the crankshaft I guess we’ll see. |
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Post by kato69 on Jun 29, 2022 5:54:06 GMT -5
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