correct torque settings for cylinder head?
Nov 20, 2022 16:52:21 GMT -5
190mech, aeroxbud, and 3 more like this
Post by ThaiGyro on Nov 20, 2022 16:52:21 GMT -5
Hi all...yes! Beam would be correct. I was always wired on adrenaline, but beaming from ear to beer.
Here is my 3/8" drive beamer:
That one is a cheap-o, but has worked well for many years. Importantly, should be used in a very tight temperature range...like 65 F. to 80 F. (18 C. to 26 C.)
I have two 1/2" drive torque wrenches. A clicker and a dial type. The dial one is 'da-shite, if you need accuracy in larger foot pounds/Newton meters. The clicker is easy and great for lugs nutz and gross values that need be similar. The dial? I use for smashing head to block connections on higher compression engines. (Smashing expensive, but sensitive head gaskets)...It is a 1960's vintage Snap-on, fully calibratable (word?) wrench.
Clicker:
Dial:
With a "beam" wrench, it is important to maintain the handle in "neutral"...the extended shank centered, not touching the sides to create an even pull when torqueing.
Note that clickers are mostly ratchet heads. Worn heads mean lessening/variable torque values. AT least when you get to my age. The big question is what do you check any of them with and how?
Lastly, small torque values, like our beloved heads and case bolts? My version of that torque wrench is years of practice with wrenches and sockets with successes, and an occasional failure. For newbies, under torque and fix the leaks...or over torque and grow money on trees.
Here is my 3/8" drive beamer:
That one is a cheap-o, but has worked well for many years. Importantly, should be used in a very tight temperature range...like 65 F. to 80 F. (18 C. to 26 C.)
I have two 1/2" drive torque wrenches. A clicker and a dial type. The dial one is 'da-shite, if you need accuracy in larger foot pounds/Newton meters. The clicker is easy and great for lugs nutz and gross values that need be similar. The dial? I use for smashing head to block connections on higher compression engines. (Smashing expensive, but sensitive head gaskets)...It is a 1960's vintage Snap-on, fully calibratable (word?) wrench.
Clicker:
Dial:
With a "beam" wrench, it is important to maintain the handle in "neutral"...the extended shank centered, not touching the sides to create an even pull when torqueing.
Note that clickers are mostly ratchet heads. Worn heads mean lessening/variable torque values. AT least when you get to my age. The big question is what do you check any of them with and how?
Lastly, small torque values, like our beloved heads and case bolts? My version of that torque wrench is years of practice with wrenches and sockets with successes, and an occasional failure. For newbies, under torque and fix the leaks...or over torque and grow money on trees.