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Post by RyanWiltshire on Nov 21, 2022 18:25:01 GMT -5
You have to change the setting for the video to public try now bro
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Post by FrankenMech on Nov 21, 2022 20:00:38 GMT -5
A narrow belt will cause the same problem.
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Post by TuneGoon on Nov 21, 2022 20:46:15 GMT -5
Couple things I see in your video: 1.) When you put your variator back on, you didnt relieve the belt slack in the final drive before putting the variator back on....which will pinch the belt and the variator wont seat fully likely leaving the terible wobble you have on your variator face. You can see it doesnt spin true after you do this. You always want to relieve the belt slack by pulling the rear drive open and allowing the belt to "drop" into the pulley leaving plenty of slack on the variator so it doesnt get pinched when you reassemble. 2.) Shouldnt there be a thick, convex washer that goes between the kickstart gear and the variator nut? This may be why you have the spacing/shimming issues you currently have. Heres a great video to show what Im talking about on both points. In the beginning and when he removes the variator again you can see theres a thick convex washer thats supposed to go between the kick gear and the variator nut. I made the video starting point where he shows how to get the slack for the belt from the final drive so it doesnt get pinched in the variator when re-assembling.
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Post by RyanWiltshire on Nov 22, 2022 4:45:26 GMT -5
Couple things I see in your video: 1.) When you put your variator back on, you didnt relieve the belt slack in the final drive before putting the variator back on....which will pinch the belt and the variator wont seat fully likely leaving the terible wobble you have on your variator face. You can see it doesnt spin true after you do this. You always want to relieve the belt slack by pulling the rear drive open and allowing the belt to "drop" into the pulley leaving plenty of slack on the variator so it doesnt get pinched when you reassemble. 2.) Shouldnt there be a thick, convex washer that goes between the kickstart gear and the variator nut? This may be why you have the spacing/shimming issues you currently have. Heres a great video to show what Im talking about on both points. In the beginning and when he removes the variator again you can see theres a thick convex washer thats supposed to go between the kick gear and the variator nut. I made the video starting point where he shows how to get the slack for the belt from the final drive so it doesnt get pinched in the variator when re-assembling.
appreciate the information. I will look into this as I don't ever remember seeing a washer. I also never seen a washer on his video, it was just he knut, cog, star fix for the variator. I have put the belt on with slack and without slack...I still don't see that being the issue on why the belt don't climb as once the bike is running, the belt would fix itself correctly anyways?
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Post by RyanWiltshire on Nov 22, 2022 5:29:00 GMT -5
Couple things I see in your video: 1.) When you put your variator back on, you didnt relieve the belt slack in the final drive before putting the variator back on....which will pinch the belt and the variator wont seat fully likely leaving the terible wobble you have on your variator face. You can see it doesnt spin true after you do this. You always want to relieve the belt slack by pulling the rear drive open and allowing the belt to "drop" into the pulley leaving plenty of slack on the variator so it doesnt get pinched when you reassemble. 2.) Shouldnt there be a thick, convex washer that goes between the kickstart gear and the variator nut? This may be why you have the spacing/shimming issues you currently have. Heres a great video to show what Im talking about on both points. In the beginning and when he removes the variator again you can see theres a thick convex washer thats supposed to go between the kick gear and the variator nut. I made the video starting point where he shows how to get the slack for the belt from the final drive so it doesnt get pinched in the variator when re-assembling.
it appears I have a crank nut and conical washer which is brand new from RMS. so I guess I never had it on originally from when I bought the aerox second hand as I never remember seeing it?
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 22, 2022 5:35:31 GMT -5
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Post by FrankenMech on Nov 22, 2022 10:29:42 GMT -5
--- I have put the belt on with slack and without slack...I still don't see that being the issue on why the belt don't climb as once the bike is running, the belt would fix itself correctly anyways? The belt will only climb as high as the variator faces will 'squeeze' it. Any excess space between pulleys or insufficient belt width will cause belt slippage and low travel.
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Post by RyanWiltshire on Nov 22, 2022 13:04:03 GMT -5
I have the washer on there now. I will test it tomorrow. but I cant see the washer being the core issue. I feel like it could be a faulty crank or something. I have replaced the rear driver/pulley and will see if the washer and the new pulley fixes the issue.
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Post by TuneGoon on Nov 22, 2022 14:08:49 GMT -5
When you freehand spin the variator in your video, you can see that the face of the variator wabbling. This is tell tale sign you pinched the belt when tightening down the variator. You def need the conical washer too. I wouldnt say its your core issue, but if you dont have it, + no shims behind the variator + over compensated shimming on the face of the boss, that slack is going to present itself somewhere and make your belt travel in the variator really low like it currently is and allow things to come loose. At very least, Im confident it will get rid of some if not all of your belt slippage and bad vibrations you mentioned feeling.
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Post by RyanWiltshire on Nov 23, 2022 5:24:06 GMT -5
When you freehand spin the variator in your video, you can see that the face of the variator wabbling. This is tell tale sign you pinched the belt when tightening down the variator. You def need the conical washer too. I wouldnt say its your core issue, but if you dont have it, + no shims behind the variator + over compensated shimming on the face of the boss, that slack is going to present itself somewhere and make your belt travel in the variator really low like it currently is and allow things to come loose. At very least, Im confident it will get rid of some if not all of your belt slippage and bad vibrations you mentioned feeling. pretty sure even with slack, moving the belt freely, still makes the plate wobble. it wobbles when the bike is running as well on idle. I am pretty confident that the belt snapping and exploading the variator caused the crank to bend and have this wobbling issue, which is causing the belt too slip at high speeds...I am going to replace the crank, bearings and seals and see how it goes, along with a new driver etc
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Post by aprilialenni38 on Nov 28, 2022 6:55:08 GMT -5
Sounds most likely like a wrong belt to me. Either to short, wide to Long so on. You also likley, need ti shin The vario, and The clutch bell. Try some diffrent of thoese small Church springs, and mby altså The Big spring, bwetween The clutch and pulley. The rollees in The vario, is The most obeus choice, and is also were importent to get over here
Sorry i dont know many nanes for pustonengines parts, im not used to need to speak englich
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Post by atys77 on Jan 13, 2023 13:16:29 GMT -5
just a simple idea: assemble the variator, start the engine so that everything falls into place. Stop engine and take a photo with a mobile phone. you should see something similar if the belt is not worn and the spacer is correct
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