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Post by coachhejl on Dec 23, 2022 1:05:28 GMT -5
Can I keep my current carb and up jet it and retune?
What else will I need to upgrade to balance the mod?
I just want to be able to accelerate faster and hit 40mph. A little above is a plus
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Post by aeroxbud on Dec 23, 2022 15:32:02 GMT -5
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Post by dexameth on Dec 23, 2022 18:43:04 GMT -5
Since this is a 4 stroke post... you'll confuse people with the 70cc upgrade as most 2t platforms only accept 70cc kits as a bolt on upgrade. Your 4 stroke can have 72cc (47mm bore), 82cc (50mm bore) and 88cc (52mm bore) as all bolt-on options.
You can keep the same carb for all of these options. You WILL need to upjet accordingly. Jetting is mostly trial and error to get it right, but you can start with these numbers: 72cc 85-90 main jet 82cc 85-95 main jet 88cc 90-97 main jet
Things like exhausts with larger headers, pod filters, different port sizes in the heads, they all play a roll on intake delivery and air speed, so jetting isn't a given for anyone.
The next thing you'd wanna upgrade is the variator. It is what harnesses the power made and transfers it into the CVT. It mostly controls how the CVT shifts, and when. Any aftermarket variator will have improved ramp profiles to give you better take off as well as better throttle response; sometimes faster top end as well. You don't need a BBK to feel the improvements of an aftermarket variator. You should be in the roller weight range of 5 gram to 8 gram. Trial and error again will achieve the best results. Take some time doing the same route, swapping rollers and doing the route over until you feel what gives you the best performance for what you're aiming for. You'll feel the difference when tuning.
There's MUCH more involved, but this is a very good start to get your toes wet in the fun of tuning.
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Post by coachhejl on Dec 23, 2022 20:43:37 GMT -5
Edit...not together but should be upgraded together. The variator and the weights go together right? Is there a simple budget friendly one yous recommend? Since this is a 4 stroke post... you'll confuse people with the 70cc upgrade as most 2t platforms only accept 70cc kits as a bolt on upgrade. Your 4 stroke can have 72cc (47mm bore), 82cc (50mm bore) and 88cc (52mm bore) as all bolt-on options. You can keep the same carb for all of these options. You WILL need to upjet accordingly. Jetting is mostly trial and error to get it right, but you can start with these numbers: 72cc 85-90 main jet 82cc 85-95 main jet 88cc 90-97 main jet Things like exhausts with larger headers, pod filters, different port sizes in the heads, they all play a roll on intake delivery and air speed, so jetting isn't a given for anyone. The next thing you'd wanna upgrade is the variator. It is what harnesses the power made and transfers it into the CVT. It mostly controls how the CVT shifts, and when. Any aftermarket variator will have improved ramp profiles to give you better take off as well as better throttle response; sometimes faster top end as well. You don't need a BBK to feel the improvements of an aftermarket variator. You should be in the roller weight range of 5 gram to 8 gram. Trial and error again will achieve the best results. Take some time doing the same route, swapping rollers and doing the route over until you feel what gives you the best performance for what you're aiming for. You'll feel the difference when tuning. There's MUCH more involved, but this is a very good start to get your toes wet in the fun of tuning.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jan 5, 2023 11:00:45 GMT -5
I can say that upgrading the variator is not an absolute. I repaired one that had ~600 miles on it since new. A 'friend' of the seller did a BBK, and decided shrouding was not necessary and discarded 99%. After the rings failed, I bought it for $50, and did a BBK and new cooling shroud. It was almost like a brand-new machine in comparison to the worn stuff I normally worked on. The CVT on that Taotao really worked. Good acceleration, and reasonable top speed. It was fun. So the need for tuning may be there in all BBK installs, but this particular one stood out as being pretty well tuned as it was. It could be the previous 'mechanic' had fiddled with the CVT, and I will never know. tom
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Post by dexameth on Jan 6, 2023 7:12:21 GMT -5
Edit...not together but should be upgraded together. The variator and the weights go together right? Is there a simple budget friendly one yous recommend? Yes, the rollers are located inside the variator. They determine the RPM range - lighter weights for higher RPMs and heavier weights for lower RPMs. Too heavy will kill takeoff, too light will kill top speed. Finding the perfect balance is trial and error as described previously. Aftermarket variators are always better than stock - they have better ramp profiles for better throttle response, take off and top speed. You don't necessarily have to upgrade the variator, but I recommend it on any scooter stock or not. The budget friendly model I like the most is the SSP-G variator, problem is it's out of stock. Naraku are nice, but seem to wear out fast. DON'T DON'T DON'T get the Amazon $20 DLH or Glixal crap... please. They are horrible and will leave you with issues in the near future.
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Post by coachhejl on Jan 6, 2023 8:36:03 GMT -5
When you say horrible...what do you mean? This part seems like a pretty basic type of part. Is it made from a metal that wears down fast or something? Edit...not together but should be upgraded together. The variator and the weights go together right? Is there a simple budget friendly one yous recommend? Yes, the rollers are located inside the variator. They determine the RPM range - lighter weights for higher RPMs and heavier weights for lower RPMs. Too heavy will kill takeoff, too light will kill top speed. Finding the perfect balance is trial and error as described previously. Aftermarket variators are always better than stock - they have better ramp profiles for better throttle response, take off and top speed. You don't necessarily have to upgrade the variator, but I recommend it on any scooter stock or not. The budget friendly model I like the most is the SSP-G variator, problem is it's out of stock. Naraku are nice, but seem to wear out fast. DON'T DON'T DON'T get the Amazon $20 DLH or Glixal crap... please. They are horrible and will leave you with issues in the near future.
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Post by dexameth on Jan 7, 2023 7:13:54 GMT -5
Yes. The Amazon variators are made from the weakest and cheapest materials; even the rollers.
My issues personally have been: the inner bushing in the variator will wear out, allowing the variator to become off axis or eccentric when the engine is running. This in turn eats your belt. Also, the rollers have a cheap plastic coating and they wear down really, really fast. The posts in the variator that guide it along the back plate will wear fast as well. When I was a noob to scoots I bought a bunch of those variators thinking one might be good... nope.
Because the CVT parts are wearable items, try to invest in good parts.
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