Look bad to you?

[RyanWiltshire]

any suggestions on my video/post I posted earlier? does it sound like a rich/lean condition at the start of the video?

[oldgeek]

Seems to be rich off idle. Maybe this can help you.

[RyanWiltshire]

Jun 7, 2023 15:00:04 GMT -5 oldgeek said:

Seems to be rich off idle. Maybe this can help you.

what would I lower? pilot? raise needle clip? 

[190mech]

The way I see it is (1) TURN YOUR FUEL VALVE OFF ON SHUT DOWN!,(2) Modify the intake to get the carb to sit level,thus no dripping fuel into the intake, (3) fiddle with the float level till there is no drip while stopped and the flipping fuel valve is still ON!!!

[RyanWiltshire]

Jun 7, 2023 16:42:33 GMT -5 190mech said:

The way I see it is (1) TURN YOUR FUEL VALVE OFF ON SHUT DOWN!,(2) Modify the intake to get the carb to sit level,thus no dripping fuel into the intake, (3) fiddle with the float level till there is no drip while stopped and the flipping fuel valve is still ON!!!

only thing I haven't tried is changing needles, might go ahead changing in and out some needles. I wish I could run a normal filter with this set up, but open filter is the only way really for this set up. 

I will for sure turn that valve off when not in use. not very savy with touching float levels, never touched them before.

[Zino]

Jun 7, 2023 16:42:33 GMT -5 190mech said:

The way I see it is (1) TURN YOUR FUEL VALVE OFF ON SHUT DOWN!,(2) Modify the intake to get the carb to sit level,thus no dripping fuel into the intake, (3) fiddle with the float level till there is no drip while stopped and the flipping fuel valve is still ON!!!

Have you run the bike for a hour yet ,to clear out all the loaded up fuel ?
Before any tuning of the carb this must be done ,Along with what 190 mech is saying.

Your scoot seems sluggish at all throttle positions which suggests its rich or loaded up with fuel in the crankcase

Instead of jumping around Your carb tuning needs to be methodical .
Tune the main first progressively run smaller jets and track top speed if 2 have the same speed take the richer one.
Then go to the needle start on richest setting and work your way leaner ,whatever position feels the most responsive at 1/4 to 3/4 throttle  is the setting you shoot for if 2 feel similar take the richest one .
Then tune the pilot you want it to responsive rolling on throttle from 0 to 1/4 

[repherence2]

thoughts from the irie-lab...

your fuel flooding. i think, like what 190mech mentioned, you probably should adjust the float setting because of the angle at which the intake manifold is, it is not parallel with the ground/gravity. so, the way i see it, your float valve is not fully seating shut. so when you are not running your bike, fuel is slowly getting past the float valve and flooding your engine. i have a manual shut off valve that i pretty much never use. it pretty much always stays open unless i need to work on the carb. i use it more as an isolation valve. however, i run the forward facing CT manifold from taiwan and my carb bowl sits parallel to the ground, not at an angle.

i think your float valve may be contributing to the symptoms while the bike is running, sputtering and coughing.

the other idea that came from the irie-lab was that your Main Jet is probably too fat/big. you are running a power jet carb. those carbs have to be set up a little bit differently in approach. if you want to simplify it, you can block off the fuel line that goes to the power jet with a BB (ball bearing) to nullify the power jet circuit.

i ran a 26mm OKO knockoff with a power jet. it was a challenge at first, but once you understand that there is 1 more fuel circuit, that comes online on the top throttle range, then it becomes easier to tune. if not, the PWK type carbs with a power jet can be a nightmare to tune. it is marvelous when it is tune though.

if you insist on running that carb, get yourself a Cylinder Head Temperature gauge. i will make tuning the carb much easier. by watching the temps, you can tell when the power jet starts to come online, you see the temperature change as you go from 3/4 to full throttle.

at least you run a pod foam filter. i ran my 26mm power jet fOKO filterless. i run my 28mm OKO carb with a stainless steel tea-strainer mesh. your carb should be easier to tune than the 28mm that i run because your 21mm carb will have higher intake velocity. but i can also see that being a pain because the transitions of the 5 circuits would be faster than it is on my 28mm carb. the only drawback with that foam filter... if you are ever riding in the rain and your pod filter gets wet, it will be a nightmare because the bike will run like crap. here on Oahu, you ride past 5 districts/valleys and have full sun, and the next moment come upon the next valley/district and encounter full on pouring rain, only in that district. my UNI pod filter would get wet and i would always have the shittiest time limping the bike back home because it ran like crap, because of a wet foam pod filter. after too many days like that, i decided to switch to the forward facing manifold, 26 OKO and later a 28 OKO, no air filter, because carb mouth is too close to the frame. no more shitty days in the rain after that.

1) get a temp gauge. 2) either try to understand and visualize how the Power Jet adds a 5th circuit on the top throttle range or disable the Power Jet by blocking the fuel line. being that yours is a 21mm carb, your Power Jet circuit might be coming online just past 1/2 throttle because of the intake velocity. Power Jet circuit is dependent on vacuum. in my experience, once i understood the power jet, the carb was a beautiful thing. 3) Beware of Wet foam pod filter. 4) adjust your float angle.

[repherence2]

Jun 7, 2023 15:02:10 GMT -5 RyanWiltshire said:

what would I lower? pilot? raise needle clip? 

by the way, what size are the Pilot and Main jets?

[RyanWiltshire]

Jun 7, 2023 22:53:29 GMT -5 repherence2 said:

Jun 7, 2023 15:02:10 GMT -5 RyanWiltshire said:

what would I lower? pilot? raise needle clip? 

by the way, what size are the Pilot and Main jets?

I am running a Stage6 R/T 21mm 100main - Pilot 38 - Power Jet #0 (no jet) - N68E needle, I have a box of them but they come in different markings like HHJ, HHK etc etc so I don't know where N68E sits next to the other needles in terms of richness and leanest...so I don't know where to start with them. 

- I just notice that my bike gets hot quick, gets into the 90c temp ranges. I cleared out all the fuel (that I know of)

[RyanWiltshire]

Jun 7, 2023 22:45:12 GMT -5 repherence2 said:

thoughts from the irie-lab...

your fuel flooding. i think, like what 190mech mentioned, you probably should adjust the float setting because of the angle at which the intake manifold is, it is not parallel with the ground/gravity. so, the way i see it, your float valve is not fully seating shut. so when you are not running your bike, fuel is slowly getting past the float valve and flooding your engine. i have a manual shut off valve that i pretty much never use. it pretty much always stays open unless i need to work on the carb. i use it more as an isolation valve. however, i run the forward facing CT manifold from taiwan and my carb bowl sits parallel to the ground, not at an angle.

i think your float valve may be contributing to the symptoms while the bike is running, sputtering and coughing.

the other idea that came from the irie-lab was that your Main Jet is probably too fat/big. you are running a power jet carb. those carbs have to be set up a little bit differently in approach. if you want to simplify it, you can block off the fuel line that goes to the power jet with a BB (ball bearing) to nullify the power jet circuit.

i ran a 26mm OKO knockoff with a power jet. it was a challenge at first, but once you understand that there is 1 more fuel circuit, that comes online on the top throttle range, then it becomes easier to tune. if not, the PWK type carbs with a power jet can be a nightmare to tune. it is marvelous when it is tune though.

if you insist on running that carb, get yourself a Cylinder Head Temperature gauge. i will make tuning the carb much easier. by watching the temps, you can tell when the power jet starts to come online, you see the temperature change as you go from 3/4 to full throttle.

at least you run a pod foam filter. i ran my 26mm power jet fOKO filterless. i run my 28mm OKO carb with a stainless steel tea-strainer mesh. your carb should be easier to tune than the 28mm that i run because your 21mm carb will have higher intake velocity. but i can also see that being a pain because the transitions of the 5 circuits would be faster than it is on my 28mm carb. the only drawback with that foam filter... if you are ever riding in the rain and your pod filter gets wet, it will be a nightmare because the bike will run like crap. here on Oahu, you ride past 5 districts/valleys and have full sun, and the next moment come upon the next valley/district and encounter full on pouring rain, only in that district. my UNI pod filter would get wet and i would always have the shittiest time limping the bike back home because it ran like crap, because of a wet foam pod filter. after too many days like that, i decided to switch to the forward facing manifold, 26 OKO and later a 28 OKO, no air filter, because carb mouth is too close to the frame. no more shitty days in the rain after that.

1) get a temp gauge. 2) either try to understand and visualize how the Power Jet adds a 5th circuit on the top throttle range or disable the Power Jet by blocking the fuel line. being that yours is a 21mm carb, your Power Jet circuit might be coming online just past 1/2 throttle because of the intake velocity. Power Jet circuit is dependent on vacuum. in my experience, once i understood the power jet, the carb was a beautiful thing. 3) Beware of Wet foam pod filter. 4) adjust your float angle.

I blocked off the power jet with a #0 jet. running 100 main - 38 pilot - N68E Needle (I have a box I have not tried, different markings on the needles though, they got HHJ, JJ, HKK, etc etc 

I don't really know how to adjust float height without messing it up though? 

[RyanWiltshire]

Water pump was also making a pinging sound, opened it up and a rubber water pump grommet had broken, would this effect how the pump works/operates? Cause temperatures problems

[kosmos]

also, theres ways to make sure that the float valve is shutting off and not dumping fuel into the bike if you haven't got a shut off valve or if the petcock is leaking while not riding. the float valve is attached to the float and it has a rubber tip. you can blow through the fuel inlet nipple on the carb and then push the float up and if any air is passing through, the tip of the valve might be dirty and you can then clean it with something and also take a cotton swab and clean were the float valve seats out. do it until it doesnt' allow air through and if you can't get it to stop then replace the float valve.

[RyanWiltshire]

Does this look fouled to you? 

[bigmatthew86]

Yes. I’d replace it

[aeroxbud]

Yes get a new plug.
The broken grommet on the water pump is unlikely to be the cause of your overheating.