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Post by dcdirtrider on May 9, 2024 0:19:00 GMT -5
The tool I made appears to do the same thing, but will only work on Minarelli engines. Also made one for the variator-side that might be able to help with crank installations. My new crank will be here next week, so I'll definitively be referencing your video instead this time. Do you find it easier to install the bearings on the crank or in the case? |
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Post by aeroxbud on May 9, 2024 2:53:23 GMT -5
I've always found it easier to install the bearings first. You can always pull the crank in like Brent shows in the video. But if the bearing isn't full seated on the crank it's a little trickier.
You can also use freeze spray to really cool the bearings down. Much colder than in the freezer at home. It's what plumbers use to freeze water pipes. But he careful it will freeze the bearings to naked skin.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 9, 2024 9:30:31 GMT -5
I usually put the bearings on the crank first. That's the easiest part of the job. Heat the bearing to 250F or so (bearing company info has said 257 as a max) and cool the crank with freeze spray and they usually fall right on. I've done it both ways though.
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Post by dcdirtrider on May 13, 2024 1:28:26 GMT -5
I usually put the bearings on the crank first. That's the easiest part of the job. Heat the bearing to 250F or so (bearing company info has said 257 as a max) and cool the crank with freeze spray and they usually fall right on. I've done it both ways though. I'll probably do the bearings first so I only need to heat the crank bearing when installing the final half of the case. On another note, the "new" Athena crank showed up... and it looks like the box went through an industrial dryer. The eBay listing showed a picture of a crank and mentioned "box is distressed from transportation", but the pictures of the box in their listing looks like a brand-new Rolls Royce compared to this thing Doesn't look like any part of the crank punctured both the inner & outer box during shipping, if that means anything. There's also no marks on any part of the crank, it just looks like the box was rolled down a large hill. But, hey! Who doesn't like constant roadblocks that lead to months of your shop table being unusable? I do not have a crank measuring tool, and I do not want to spend $200-600 on a tool that I'll use once. Is it worth installing this thing, or just returning it and installing the stock crank to be done with it?      |
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Post by dcdirtrider on May 15, 2024 18:09:50 GMT -5
Alright, so I just installed the Athena crank and did a dirty check on the crankshaft alignment using the phone, and it looks to be a tad bit wobbly still. No hammers/mallets on any part of the crank. Afterwards, I noticed that the two case-halves aren't perfectly aligned, but bot the dowel pins are installed, and all the case bolts were torqued to spec. Can the case-alignment cause this wobble? And what's the best way to align the case if the dowel pins and bolts don't do the job?   |
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Post by 190mech on May 15, 2024 18:33:30 GMT -5
That is just the crap castings on them, if the dowels are in you are good..A die grinder is used for case matching those sloppy fits, kinda too late now...
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Post by dcdirtrider on May 15, 2024 18:54:48 GMT -5
That is just the crap castings on them, if the dowels are in you are good..A die grinder is used for case matching those sloppy fits, kinda too late now... Well, the return window is still open for the crankshaft, so it's not too late for that. Should I go ahead and send that back, or is a tiny bit of wobble ok? I also ordered a non-printed crank puller, would it be beneficial to put the puller on the crank to see if a little bit of pressure gets the wobble out? The crank rotates like it's in a cloud, but maybe a bit of pressure would help get that wobble out? |
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