What happened to the oil????

[kevino]

So I checked the dipstick today with the engine cold and saw the oil was up over the hashmarks. I could see oil pooling atop the the dipstick threads. So I tipped the scooter on its side and let oil pour out into the dirt. After a few minutes I checked the dipstick and saw the oil was just touching the bottom of the stick hashmarks. I'll check again tomorrow. The oil I drained out yesterday was just over 16 ounces, Not sure what that is in mls.

[FrankenMech]

Again Google or other search engine can help with conversions...

Check the vent line.

It really is not that difficult to fill the oil or check the level.

[kevino]

Maybe if you've got CRS syndrome. I found a better funnel and decanted 100cc into the crankcase. The dipstick shows oil level midway between upper and lower edges of the hashtags.

[GrumpyUnk]

16oz is a pint. 2 pints to a quart. A quart is 943mm or 943cc. About 16oz is close to 450cc.
Most specify about 700-800cc. No idea why they would not be exactly the same......
Do check with the wheels on the ground. The center stand does not keep things on the level, and will bias the dipstick reading in the 'too low' indication direction. Front wheel on the ground, rear up in the air to me indicates the oil will flow towards the front, and leave the dipstick high and dry... sort of.
A long time ago I bought a brand new Honda CB350. Checked the oil religiously, and it was consuming oil. Could not figure it out. Finally had a brain fart and realized I was checking on the center stand, as above the reading was significantly incorrect. Verified after doing an oil change adding the specified amount of oil, and the level was correct on the stick. I really thought I had gotten the one lemon Honda allowed per 10,000 built. Or something like that. Back then, Honda recommended motor oil, 10W30, for the sump. No mention or concern for the clutch slipping as it is/was bathed in motor oil. Today, everyone is concerned that they need 'motorcycle oil'. I dunno. I got rid of my modern cycles due to falling over when walking around. The CB is still in the basement with 6k on the odo.
So check when on the wheels/tires.
tom

[kevino]

I realized the oil dipstick reading is bogus when I saw the scooter kick stand sink into soft earth and toppled the scooter over. Now I push it into the garage before checking oil level while on the center stand. As long as the level is somewhere between the two hash marks, I'm happy.

[kevino]

I Had the snow bear scooter running a few days ago, enough to recharge the battery. And then it rained for the first time in months. Even though it was under a tarp it won't start. I rolled it into the garage in hopes it will dry out. But if that doesn't solve the problem I'm back to assuming the problem is water in the oil. When I went through this last it seemed to work simply adding HEAT to the gas. The container says one bottle for 20 gallons. I added HEAT but no response. It's still dead and my garage smells like gasoline.

I have plans to replace the head bolts and then put in a new carb but now I'm wondering if I should do that now before dealing with the non-running motor. Rain supposed to stop tonight so I'll put off everything until it dries out a bit here.

I took photos but all they show is soggy trees and driveway,

[GrumpyUnk]

A tarp will keep out a lot of water, but there always seems to be a 'mist' that gets under the tarp and makes every surface slightly wet. I would get a dry rag, and wipe down the coil secondary wire, all the way to the spark plug. I might pull the plug, and wipe down the ceramic insulator. It will get covered with a thin layer of water, and maybe let the spark leak off to the metal part. The coil wire will also get damp, due to temperature change, most likely, and that can also allow the spark to dissipate instead of reaching the combustion chamber.
You could use "Water Displacement formula Forty" as it was designed to displace water from ignition systems on aircraft engines. WD-40. I do not think i have ever used it for its original purpose, FWIW. It should help of the parts are damp. supposedly.
You could also drain the fuel from the float bowl directly to insure the fuel it not water contaminated. Catch in a glass or ceramic container and let sit for a bit. If there is water, it might form small 'pearls' at the bottom. HEAT would tend to absorb it, but draining the whole tank would make sure you don't have excessive water in the fuel tank.
I think getting fresh fuel into the float bowl would be the second thing after getting the ignition stuff dry.
tom

[FrankenMech]

Always apply silicone dielectric grease to the spark plug boot, otherwise the spark can drain off, particularly if the spark plug insulator is damp. Contrary to popular belief there is a reason to use spark plug grease.

WD-40 works well on ignition systems.

Temperature changes will cause the fuel tank to 'breathe' allowing moisture/humidity from the air to become trapped in the tank. Keeping the tank nearly full will minimize this. Use 100% real gas in small engines.

Water in the oil will not affect starting. Detergents in the oil emulsify the water forming a tan/brown colored foam on the top of the oil or on the coolest parts of the engine like breather caps etc. Bringing the engine to operating temperature for a while will vaporize or boil off the water.

Use METAL gas cans to store fuel. Plastic is permeable to water (look it up). Plastic fuel containers are CHEAP which is why stores push them and people idiots use them. Don't be an idiot. LOL