another taotao50 no start

[Deleted]

140 is not good. 170 and over is good. it has low compression at even 150...
Want to keep it? want it to crank easy and run good?
time for a ring job.


if it had 150 and would crank half decent i would say....get ready for the ring job that is in the near future. at 130-140...the ring job is here now.

[Deleted]

The one i just did the ring job on has 175 and cranks easy. Midnight and Yellow Fever have 190+ with pure 93 octane, iridium plugs and orange coils...and run at the lightest touch of the start button when warm, and crank fast even in the coldest weather. at 130-140...all that will never happen even with 110 octane.

[scottcsu]

thanks for the education 1FASTQMB. Now I need to research repalcing the rings.

-scott

[Deleted]

Apr 23, 2012 18:52:08 GMT -5 scottcsu said:

thanks for the education 1FASTQMB. Now I need to research repalcing the rings.

-scott

here is a basic guide:
49ccscoot.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=4ttech&action=display&thread=350

BUT if you use your present cylinder you MUST break the glaze with a cylinder hone or your new rings will NOT seat properly!


Napa part # 776-9223
$15

Attachments:

[Aaron420e]

IF you think spark is missing, then try a HIGHER VOLTAGE ignition coil. Also any carbon deposits on plug may be cleaned with a propane etc torch. A new spark plug wire will come with most coils. A spark tester will show if there is faults in the ignition coil or secondary wire. Spark, fuel, timing are your most important things for any ignition to be working properly. In open air a spark will jump much more than inside a compressed cylinder, as there is less resistance in open air. look for BLUE spark -orange in open air is not impressive. As far as octane goes i hope this helps. A higher octane rating literally means a SLOWER more even burn. This is more for performance engines running more advanced timing and higher compression ratios (stroker kits) its not needed for most engines. A good spark will go a long way in starting a scooter. Last but not least....Vacuum...an Air box will help with that, A uni filter or open may be a bit too much air and not provide the restriction needed for vacuum to suck in the new gas air charge in the cylinder. Hope that all helps, Note: i mostly work on cars and this is my brothers scooter page but im usually pretty decent helping him with his scooter.

[Deleted]

Apr 24, 2012 21:00:19 GMT -5 Aaron420e said:

any carbon deposits on plug may be cleaned with a propane etc torch.

Thats a great tip, i never thought of burning it clean. 20 yrs ago when i first started working on cars for a job the shop had one of these that blasts the plug clean:

toolmonger.com/2008/05/15/cheap-ass-tools-pneumatic-spark-plug-cleaner/

Since thats what I learned I never really looked for another way to do it. Most of the other garages I worked in over the years had a similar device. As carb'd cars started to die off (thank god) and FI cars became more the norm....the 'shot cleaner' went unused and eventually in the newest shops it wasnt even installed....but we still always had propane around (thats how the old timers find vacuum leaks and is the best way IMO). Sometimes though I still had a scenario where a plug would need to be cleaned for diagnostic purposes so a dirty plug would get thrown away when all it needed was a good cleaning. Always seemed like such a waste to me.

Great tip bro!