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Post by ryan_ott on Jun 4, 2019 18:44:17 GMT -5
Before you OK the work ask if they could mount your tires for you. It might be a few dollars more but if they scratch them guess who gets to fix them. Yeah it’s a return trip but worth it if you ask me.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 4, 2019 22:38:29 GMT -5
They will do it, but for a fee. I haven't asked, but I saw on their facebook that they added $40 per wheel for a car or truck so I'm sure it ain't a freebie for a scooter either. You realize exactly how poor you are when you look at their stuff and see that people have showed up and said they want their wheels done while they wait. 2 week wait for me and I can't even get a price yet. Another guy showed up with his race car frame and wanted it done ASAP so they had it back to him in 6 hours. I'm not even enough of a self-important ass to show up and demand that kind of stuff if I did have the cash. I'll prob be way more excited to get my little scooter wheels back than any of the people demanding that service.
On a more practical note, I was looking into it earlier and it sounds like I need to find a new way to clean my CVT quickly. My goto is brake parts cleaner. Gets the case clean in a hurry with no real effort. I thought powder coat was unaffected, but reading on various forums I have seen people saying that it's a good chance that brake parts cleaner can damage powder coat. I guess I could make sure the rear wheel was shielded and it should be fine, but I def have to remember to be more cautious than I usually am.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 5, 2019 19:43:21 GMT -5
The welder called me at about 5PM today and said I could come get the head. I went over within a few minutes since it's just down the road. He brought the head out and handed it to me. It looked way more rough than I was expecting, but I asked how much I owed him. He said he had an hour and a half or so into it, but he didn't want anything right now. He said he wanted to find out if it's gonna work or not first. He told me to get back to him when I knew if it was going to work. I told him I'm fine with paying him and he said this kind of job for this application is new to him and he'd like the experience of seeing how it turns out so he wants me to come back once I know if it works. I won't really know if it works with a running engine for quite a while I'm guessing, and if it still leaks that's not his problem IMO. The best I can really do real soon is to cut it down. If I can get a solid flat surface, then he did his job. At some point in talking, he said what he did is more like soldering, but the temperatures required were more like brazing. Some of the head is melted because he said it had to be that hot for the process. He said originally the rods that he used were called Aladdin rods when they were the only thing on the market, but everyone has since copied them. He told me that when they were first demonstrated for him, the guy filled a hole the size of a quarter quickly. So here are a ton of pics... You'll see this in multiple pics, but you can see that the head really started melting and folding here. You can see the combustion chamber area melted here. I got it in the lathe after dinner. After I started taking it down and some material came off, the melted area became even more obvious. You can really see some cracking in some of the pics. Not sure if that's gonna be an issue. Here it is after I cut as much (really more) than I wanted to away from the central area. I didn't touch the outside o-ring area, so this is a little lower. I was trying to go till I got something fairly solid, but didn't want to go any farther. I finished that up at about 7:30 and he said he was gonna be around for a couple of hours so I checked, but he was already headed home. Whenever I can catch him in the shop again I'm going to see if he can fill all of the low spots and retry. It's gonna need a little work on the chamber too and I'll have to cut the outside o-ring area down to match it.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jun 5, 2019 21:04:28 GMT -5
It’s good that he would rather have a happy customer then some money in his pocket. We do similar kind gestures at the shop. If someone comes in and it’s a quick 10 min repair we’ll send him on his way with a few business cards in his hand. It works to bring traffic in the door.
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Post by 190mech on Jun 5, 2019 22:42:34 GMT -5
The squish band looks to be cooked in a few areas,hope that cleans up.I used some of that 'brazing' metal in the RM125/Mina project,it didnt do well in a shear loading application...
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 6, 2019 15:28:21 GMT -5
I took the head to the welder this morning. Showed up and he was under a truck so I didn't want to yell or startle him because I know how much sharp and hard crap is under a vehicle to hit your head on. I hung out with his great dane "Yogi" for a minute, then got his attention. I showed him the head and he said "I'll see what I can do, come on back". I watched him heat it with an OA torch till rods would melt when touched to it. Looked like a bit of a pain, because by the time it got hot enough for the rod to melt, the filler already in the head was then molten. Then it could run and cause what was a flat spot to be a low spot and stuff like that. It probably took 10-15 minutes before he had voids filled in. He said he had the rods around for probably 10 years and the tube was basically still full, so you can imagine how much they get used. His dog was lying at my feet the whole time and never flinched or seemed even the slightest bit bothered with pops of the torch or anything. The head had to cool before I could take it home. He said you can hang out here if you want and then asked if I wanted something to drink and pointed out a bar stool. He intended to get back to work on the truck that I interrupted him from, but he ended up talking about 2Ts and riding till the head cooled. Turns out he's a bit of a 2T fan and has raced offroad some in the past. The head cooled and he still wouldn't let me pay him, so I took it home. Here's a look at it after the additional filler. I was a little worried after getting a good look at it. Thinking this may be a long back and forth process. Only one way to find out though, so I faced it off in the lathe again. I faced both the inner sealing area and the outside o-ring area this time. Actually didn't turn out that bad. It was still kinda ugly and had some pinholes and such, but mostly I wanted to find out how bad it was where the combustion chamber and squish band had melted. I recut the squish band and worked it over a little and this is how it turned out. Not perfect, but I've ran some heads that look more beat than this from wrist pin failures and things like that. The little indentation right at the edge of the squish band is the only thing that I'm not sure about, but I didn't really want to have him go over it again. I cleaned it up and took it back to the welder. He said that's not bad and seemed to like the work on recutting the squish area. I asked if I could pay him now and he said "I guess". The bill seemed fair and I gave him a tip for being so easy to deal with and friendly. I'm sure it's not done. I'll need to figure out how it's gonna seal and if clearances are OK now.
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Post by 190mech on Jun 6, 2019 16:36:53 GMT -5
Looks better than I thought it would!What about a thin layer of ultra grey or black on final assembly for sealing?Youve got a lot more sealing area there than before...
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 6, 2019 17:32:29 GMT -5
I've been using Ultra Grey aside from the last time when I ran out and used Threebond 1184. Some here think copper spray. Copper spray was always my choice when air cooled, but I had my share of leaks then too.
My main concern ATM is what I'm doing with o-rings for the studs. I think the 2mm o-rings came in today. Don't even know. I was working on the head and just took a box from the mail lady and went back to the lathe. I'll have to take a look at how they sit relative to the head, because around the stud holes isn't exactly clean on all of them.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jun 6, 2019 18:01:51 GMT -5
Just run a tank of castor premix and those pinholes will fill in. I think it turned out pretty good considering. I came across optimum grey #27036 and I think it’s closer to a threebond product, it’s tackier and more rubberized feeling when cured. It might be something to look at.
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Post by 190mech on Jun 6, 2019 19:41:59 GMT -5
I think any kind of sealant that can stand 300F and be resistant to raw fuel would work fine,we are just filling voids here,the real clamping is in the machined area.. Scott gave me a LC 50mm Charmo cyl kit,note the lack of O-ring in the chamber area..
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 6, 2019 20:19:52 GMT -5
Hmmm. That is a Charmo kit though. Same brand as this essentially, and it won't seal worth a damn for more than trips around the block. I guess I could try it without o-rings and then add if needed. It's a shame that's not something like a Polini or Malossi cylinder where they'd likely mention a preferred sealant in the instructions if there were one.
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Post by oldgeek on Jun 6, 2019 20:43:11 GMT -5
You are making chicken salad from chicken S*@#! I have to say I was not impressed of the aluminium filling as done at first, but it looks much better now considering.
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Post by ryan_ott on Jun 6, 2019 20:47:53 GMT -5
The Airsal 77 here also just uses a copper gasket.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 8, 2019 19:27:54 GMT -5
The 2x7 o-rings came in a couple of days ago and they look more like something I'd use than the 1.5x7s. Not sure that they'll get used anywhere ATM though. I noticed that one of my mount bearings was missing a seal and now gritty and rough. Replaced that. I guess the seal must have ripped or something, because it should have been floating around on the mount bar otherwise. The OR belt that starts off at 18.0mm was ~16.9mm wide after one trip to the beach and maybe 50 miles otherwise. I'll re-use it since my first trip won't be to the beach, but prob change it before any really long ride. Cleaned the engine a bit. I had red dust and play between the primary drive shaft and the CVT cover bearing when I took it apart. Decided to go back to a setup that I tried in the past that uses a larger ID bearing in the cover with an aluminum kind of bushing or bearing that fits the shaft and the cover bearing snug. That gives it a tight fit and the aluminum seems to wear instead of the shaft. The old piece that I made was worn and didn't fit either well, so I tossed it and made a new one. Then I moved back to working on the head. I was in a hurry to get it back to the welder and only cut it to 53.Xmm instead of 54mm so I wanted to take care of that. Before I spent the time to chuck it up and get it square-ish, I made up a spacer so the adapter for the lathe didn't sit so far proud on the chamber side. That way I'd be able to smooth the chamber a bit more. I had a problem when I tried to cut the bore. The bottom of the cutter ran into the deck and scored it. I ground the bottom back and then cut it without issue and then refaced the head. I just cut it straight over instead of setting the angle and cutting the whole squish band again. Didn't know how much I'd have to rework anyway once I tested on the engine. Facing revealed some more blemishes from the melting and solder/braze process, but I think it's still fine. I did a mock up and torqued the cylinder nuts as I normally would so I could check squish clearance. I checked on 4 corners and it was 0.85mm to 0.95mm. When I first used this head it was 1.0 to 1.2mm. The clearance should be alright and I may have actually cut it slightly more square than it started off. My next concern was how badly I changed the combustion chamber volume of the head. It was 11.1cc when new. I hoped it would be within 1cc. I was pretty surprised when it turned out to be 11.1cc now. I took a look at the cylinder. It certainly isn't great, but it could be worse. Lots of scuffs and some aluminum on the exhaust side of the bore. I gave it a very quick hone with a flex hone and WD-40, then cleaned it with brake parts cleaner then dish soap and water. Far from perfect, but good enough. Now a look at the piston. It's pretty rough. Lots of scuffing on the exhaust side, some on the intake side, and the wrist pin sides are pretty clean. The rings aren't scuffed bad. The crown looks basically like it did new, aside from coloring. I thought about just sanding the piston and replacing the bearing and clips. Then I did a couple more checks. End gap minimums would be ~0.009" for this. The lower ring was pretty good at 0.013". The upper ring was 0.023" though. I did a quick and dirty piston to cylinder clearance check. I didn't feel like getting out the dial bore gauge and mic right now, so I just used feelers. It would fit 0.005". I have a Ruima piston kit just like this one and a new Wiseco bearing, so I think I'll just replace it all. A quick check with the Ruima would let an 0.003" feller fit snug. The powder coater that has my wheels and that I thought was going to call me when he got back to the shop still hasn't called. The place that does the True Chrome never did respond to my email inquiry... not that it matters now.
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Post by Lucass2T on Jun 9, 2019 5:00:17 GMT -5
Seems like that motor has been running very hot! Greyish piston crown with death ash on the underside of it.
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