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Post by captincvmn on Nov 9, 2020 12:21:31 GMT -5
I hope Santa brings you some video equipment.
I’ve been mulling over your home Dyno. I’m thinking if I could locate a broke ass tree chipper that once the chipping drum had the knives removed it would be just about right. High speed heavy cylinder with good bearings. My brain was free associating.....
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 9, 2020 14:57:34 GMT -5
I’ve been mulling over your home Dyno. I’m thinking if I could locate a broke ass tree chipper that once the chipping drum had the knives removed it would be just about right. High speed heavy cylinder with good bearings. My brain was free associating..... I really don't know anything about wood chippers, beyond don't stick my arm in there. A quick google image search seems to show that the drums can take on a multitude of configurations. Many of which have large cavities near the cutters or some are machined so there are no bolt-on blades. Could be the ticket, but I think this will be another game of chance. IF an old chipper came along cheap, then what is the likelihood of it being a drum style that may work? Maybe many more standard units have something conducive to being a dyno roller, or maybe not. Thanks for another idea though. I guess if a big drum were cheap enough and believed to be balanced well, a sleeve could be fitted. Of course then how expensive does that end up and does it end up out of balance? It would definitely need to be enclosed around the ends or you could lose an appendage when it's spun up, but that would be the easy part with the dyno frame.
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 9, 2020 17:25:12 GMT -5
What is the rear whee RPM at 70 MPH? Roughly. I guess I could figure it out using my own tire size calculation of 1430mm per revolution. 112.654 kph 112654000Mm/hr 1,877,566.666666667Mm/min 1,312.983682983683RPM
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 9, 2020 17:52:11 GMT -5
A John Deere baler has a flywheel of some good inertia with a nice smooth outer rim already mounted in a frame. I’m on the hunt for stuff.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 9, 2020 18:11:34 GMT -5
RPM of the roller would depend on the RPM of the rear tire, but also ratio of size for the roller to the tire so it's kinda hard to say for sure exactly what you'd need for an RPM ceiling. I'm just saying a couple thousand at least as a reference to get in the ballpark of what may work. I'd really like to have headroom there and not push it to the redline. If my math is correct : Big Ass Roller + Spinnin' Pretty Damn Fast = Potential For Alotta Hurt.
I would think something like the flywheel is probably tough to work with. Would be nice to have a wide patch for tire contact so if it moved a little everything didn't go wrong and also the large diameter would mean the bench would have to be really tall. My work bench is 2ft tall and I can tell you I don't want to wrestle a scoot up 4ft regularly. If I ever end up with something that works, it will be a fixture in my scoot endeavors because we all know I'm a bit obsessed with testing scoot stuff so I will wear that sucker out.
I looked up the Dynojet SD12 (scooter dyno) out of curiosity. Found that it lists a 12" diameter by 14" wide roller. I don't see a weight listed, but I see that it requires two people to lift the drum and that the whole dyno is about 600lb. It's good for a little over 30HP and almost 110MPH according to them.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 9, 2020 19:10:30 GMT -5
I looked up 12" x 12" steel bar. $1,300 for 1018 and $1,700 for 4140P, + shipping. I thought it would be hundreds, but not that much. Wow. Those chunks of steel are worth more than my scooter.
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 9, 2020 19:40:47 GMT -5
That's a crazy price.
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Post by Steve B on Nov 10, 2020 8:51:49 GMT -5
@ 90GtVert, Just wanna throw a little appreciation and respect you're way. Thank you for all the videos and the time you take to make them and explain things to us.
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 10, 2020 11:37:32 GMT -5
@ 90GtVert, Just wanna throw a little appreciation and respect you're way. Thank you for all the videos and the time you take to make them and explain things to us. I know that as a Newbie I feel a lot more confident taking bolts out and fixing stuff than just working from scratch. My thanks as well Brent
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 10, 2020 14:19:19 GMT -5
The belt busting endeavor is going awful. I got an old cover out that I've never used. Bought it in a lot of Minarelli ATV CVT stuff years ago. It was covered in mud so I cleaned it off. TBH, after smelling it once heated up, I'm not so sure the brown stuff was just mud. Chopped it up with a cutoff wheel to allow me to keep the kick start and support for the rear bearing and most of the center section to help support the case. Installed it and it doesn't return. It's hard to kick. Ugh. I was ready to go so I tried to kick it hard till I had a good aerobic workout. Last time it ran, it cut off at a stop sign. I figured it may have an issue so I took the cover off and fired it up with a drill eventually. Doesn't want to idle. Turned the idle up and tried adjusting the mix screw. Got it so I could leave it alone and it would idle for a few minutes at about 2400RPM. Put the cover back on. Still too tough to kick start it. Fine. No cover it is. I put the camcorder back on for the rear view, assuming it was going to die again but I might as well go for it. GoPro back on the front. Away I go. A few miles in, the rear cam is already off. Whatever. I wait till about 7 miles in and stop to see if it will come back on. The scoot dies. I get the cover back on and fire it up. Couldn't even get long enough to remove the cover again without it dying. After a few tries, I gave up and just turned both cameras on and headed home more gently. It died a couple more times when I just had to let off of the throttle while stopped to see if it would idle. It's acting like it did right before it died when I was trying to do the 48 Hours of Ruckus and later found that it was leaking coolant and had low compression. The water pump is also pretty bad and I'll be surprised if it doesn't need an impeller shaft so I'll prob look that up again and order one in a minute. I certainly never thought breaking a belt would be so hard. EDIT : Ordered 2 impeller shafts from kartpartsdepot. Not much else came up for the K514G impeller shaft. $45 shipped. So 2 sets of bearings and 2 impeller shafts that should make for 2 nearly complete rebuilds was about $75. The site that I bought the pump on now has it listed at $34, so probably $80-85 for two brand new pumps.
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 10, 2020 15:00:18 GMT -5
You just need to ride the scooter somewhere you either want or need to go to. It’ll break very quickly then at the most inconvenient spot.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 10, 2020 20:32:13 GMT -5
I just transferred the files from the cams today. The camcorder's screen is now solid red. The video started out with just bad vibes and then turned to nothing but red and black. That one's smoked now. Just to finish off the day, I got in the truck to go mail something. Tried to back out of the garage door without opening the door. 20 years of going in and out of the garage and that's a first. Felt pretty damn dumb, but I just bent the inside edges a little and nothing that affects the operation of the door or the appearance from the outside.
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 11, 2020 6:27:35 GMT -5
You almost got those new doors.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 12, 2020 15:51:48 GMT -5
I checked compression on the engine today. 130-135psi. It was 165-170psi about 275 miles ago when this piston was new after it stranded me during 48 Hours of Ruckus. If that's not part of the idle issue, it's likely at least part of why it didn't seem to want to pull higher speeds. I've been blaming the worn down belt, while trying to suppress my fears of potential engine issues.
I spent half the day trying to get the engine on the bench, because I had to clean first. Everything was covered in aluminum dust from cutting up the CVT cover for belt testing and I don't like opening up an engine with metal shavings and dust everywhere.
If there's no catastrophic failure, it's probably time to get a bigger piston... it was last time really. That was quoted as 4-6 weeks so I'll either have to put the newer cylinder back or plan on busting belts in the snow. Even though I just measured the piston and cylinder about 144 miles ago, I want to try to carefully measure it again before I order anything. I also don't know how thick cylinder coatings typically are and how much wear is considered reasonable before you scrap a cylinder. I think I'd likely want a C or D piston. Since they make those, I'd have to assume if you're within that range then you hang onto the cylinder if it's not jacked up... but then again they do come as B cyl & piston sets brand new like my 2nd cylinder.
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pewpew
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 254
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Post by pewpew on Nov 12, 2020 16:00:26 GMT -5
I checked compression on the engine today. 130-135psi. It was 165-170psi about 275 miles ago when this piston was new after it stranded me during 48 Hours of Ruckus. If that's not part of the idle issue, it's likely at least part of why it didn't seem to want to pull higher speeds. I've been blaming the worn down belt, while trying to suppress my fears of potential engine issues. I spent half the day trying to get the engine on the bench, because I had to clean first. Everything was covered in aluminum dust from cutting up the CVT cover for belt testing and I don't like opening up an engine with metal shavings and dust everywhere. If there's no catastrophic failure, it's probably time to get a bigger piston... it was last time really. That was quoted as 4-6 weeks so I'll either have to put the newer cylinder back or plan on busting belts in the snow. Even though I just measured the piston and cylinder about 144 miles ago, I want to try to carefully measure it again before I order anything. I also don't know how thick cylinder coatings typically are and how much wear is considered reasonable before you scrap a cylinder. I think I'd likely want a C or D piston. Since they make those, I'd have to assume if you're within that range then you hang onto the cylinder if it's not jacked up... but then again they do come as B cyl & piston sets brand new like my 2nd cylinder. Im calling a sandblasted looking piston crown and scratched piston on the exhaust port side. Maybe the head fix didnt work?
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