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Post by captincvmn on Nov 23, 2020 17:29:28 GMT -5
I am curious what the entire volume of the internals of the engine (free air cavity assembled) from reeds inward at TDC vs BDC.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 24, 2020 13:46:27 GMT -5
I got T2 up and running again today. 170psi. Took a quick warm up ride so I can re-tq. I won't be doing any belt busting attempts today. It was about 45° for my test ride. I'll try it on one of the days forecasted to be warmer this week so maybe I can feel my fingers while I'm trying to dig cords out of the rear pulley. EDIT : Just got the footage from both cams from the ride. Even the Hero9 with it's image stabilization can't make it a clear shot of the rear pulley with all the vibes. It also moves around, I guess trying to find the section of video that looks most stable to it? Still, it's better than what the 4s do and I've got it set to 2.7K @ 120FPS. It's gonna be blurry in 2.7K, 4K, whatever... so I figured I might as well go for a high frame rate in case that helps see something slow-mo. I am curious what the entire volume of the internals of the engine (free air cavity assembled) from reeds inward at TDC vs BDC. Not a clue. I've never checked to figure out primary compression on any of my engines.
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pewpew
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 254
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Post by pewpew on Nov 24, 2020 15:11:10 GMT -5
I got T2 up and running again today. 170psi. Took a quick warm up ride so I can re-tq. I won't be doing any belt busting attempts today. It was about 45° for my test ride. I'll try it on one of the days forecasted to be warmer this week so maybe I can feel my fingers while I'm trying to dig cords out of the rear pulley. EDIT : Just got the footage from both cams from the ride. Even the Hero9 with it's image stabilization can't make it a clear shot of the rear pulley with all the vibes. It also moves around, I guess trying to find the section of video that looks most stable to it? Still, it's better than what the 4s do and I've got it set to 2.7K @ 120FPS. It's gonna be blurry in 2.7K, 4K, whatever... so I figured I might as well go for a high frame rate in case that helps see something slow-mo. I am curious what the entire volume of the internals of the engine (free air cavity assembled) from reeds inward at TDC vs BDC. Not a clue. I've never checked to figure out primary compression on any of my engines. Please try upjetting the carb a bit and changing the timing. It might help it last.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 24, 2020 18:31:08 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 25, 2020 17:58:38 GMT -5
I think I killed it today... So, I went out to try to snap that belt. "I'm gonna get that sucker." I'm being hard on it. Lots of WOT... 60-65MPH at 14,000-14,400RPM with the narrowed belt. I get 6-7 miles in and RPM drops and the engine acts like it under a lot of load. I think, the belt must be going and something is wrapped up. Figures, I'd normally have a more abrupt fail. F it. I'm gonna snap it. WOT on and off. It doesn't sound good. There's some other noise. Must be the belt hitting something. WOT again. It dies with resistance, like braking. OK, the belt is hanging up. I hop off and the belt is OK. Uh oh. There's a gravel lot not far up the road, so I push it there so I can work on it in a larger area instead of the shoulder. A state trooper stops and rolls down his window to check on me, but I told him I'm just pushing it right to there and I've got tools to fix it. Thanked him and he drove off. I got to the lot and pulled the CVT cover off. I thought maybe something in the kickstart failed and contacted the engine or something. Wishful thinking. Nope. Turning the engine over by hand, it hits spots where it doesn't want to move and it feels and sounds a little crunchy. I pulled the plug, but it wasn't covered in metal. Looked OK really. I called for the truck at that point. I think it may be the bottom end, but this was 4-5 hours ago and I haven't even had time to unload it from the truck. Not sure when I'll be able to get a look. I'd like to go pull the engine out now, but I think I'm gonna have other crap going on tonight and tomorrow. We'll see.
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 25, 2020 20:11:21 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 26, 2020 0:18:55 GMT -5
I at least got the time to get the scoot out of the truck and get the cameras in and check footage. You can't hear what I heard when it started to fail. Just not great sound when frame mounted in closed cases. However, what I can see from looking at the video of the variator is that when the fail began, the variator suddenly looked wobbly. Guessing that means that either the variator failed or the crank has failed severely enough to go out of true.
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Post by CrankingWithCG on Nov 26, 2020 0:29:34 GMT -5
Dammit man, hope its just the variator.
If not....time to slap a twin 2fast in that baby and have T2000 🛵
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 28, 2020 19:33:48 GMT -5
It looks like the crank bearing on the CVT side went. Then took out the ramp plate for the variator, crank seals and chewed up the inside of the stator. The stator is no longer a sealed unit now, but otherwise it should be alright. As long as it still works, I don't plan to replace it now. Luckily, the cylinder kit looks fine from the quick look I've had so far. The crank has damage to the splines right where the ramp plate sits. I'll probably replace it regardless, but I'll see if it's true out of curiosity anyway. It appeared to wobble so much that I want to see if it was all the bearing or if it's out of whack.
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Post by aeroxbud on Nov 28, 2020 20:09:20 GMT -5
Never seen a ramp plate cracked like that before. That's serious force.
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pewpew
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 254
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Post by pewpew on Nov 28, 2020 20:12:11 GMT -5
It looks like the crank bearing on the CVT side went. Then took out the ramp plate for the variator, crank seals and chewed up the inside of the stator. The stator is no longer a sealed unit now, but otherwise it should be alright. As long as it still works, I don't plan to replace it now. Luckily, the cylinder kit looks fine from the quick look I've had so far. The crank has damage to the splines right where the ramp plate sits. I'll probably replace it regardless, but I'll see if it's true out of curiosity anyway. It appeared to wobble so much that I want to see if it was all the bearing or if it's out of whack. Maybe it didnt get enough oil since it was facing the crank?
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 28, 2020 20:48:23 GMT -5
I just checked the crank. The stator side has 0.002" of runout or less. The CVT side is about 0.007-0.008". I would expect to see basically equal and opposite stuff if it were knocked out of true a bit and could be brass hammered back into shape. I'm not incredibly experienced with truing cranks, but it seems like the CVT side must have bent to some degree.
I've had some people tell me the backwards bearings are bad and it wouldn't last long at all. I've had others say that it will make no difference that I'd ever notice. They held up for near 2,500 miles, with the majority at 14,000-14,500RPM "redline".
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Post by oldgeek on Nov 28, 2020 21:05:27 GMT -5
A lot of nicasil flaked from the other cylinder, that stuff is super hard. It could have damaged the bearings, then its just a matter of time?
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 28, 2020 21:09:15 GMT -5
It was 10 miles, nearly on the nose, from getting the engine back together with the newer kit after the plating fail to trashing a bearing.
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Post by captincvmn on Nov 28, 2020 21:33:26 GMT -5
Looks serious although I know it’s all replaceable. Frustrating I’m sure.
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