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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 29, 2020 0:04:01 GMT -5
I think I've got everything that I need ordered, just in time for daytime highs to start being in the 40s pretty regularly. Since it's all apart, it may go back together with a different intake so I can mount the 30mm Lectron. That's the main thing that I've wanted to try and haven't got to do yet. I'm not very optimistic, but I've had so many carb too small comments that I wanted to find out if that's true or not. The belt busting thing is being called off for now. I've never broken so much stuff in such a short time period.
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Post by 808ministroke on Nov 29, 2020 3:46:37 GMT -5
very interested on how the lectron goes! i have seen a few people using em and qm curious to say the least we all know a well tuned carb can make or break performance and or ur engine.
little off topic but do you ever use boost bottles at all? i know you have dove into the subject, i myself still rock one and dont know if it helps a higher end kit other than on idle but i keep it anyway and swear i felt a smoother lower mid rpm accel. essepecialy with sport builds, what is your verdict?
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 29, 2020 7:22:51 GMT -5
little off topic but do you ever use boost bottles at all? i know you have dove into the subject, i myself still rock one and dont know if it helps a higher end kit other than on idle but i keep it anyway and swear i felt a smoother lower mid rpm accel. essepecialy with sport builds, what is your verdict? I quit using them years ago on the case reed induction engines, like the scoots. I wasn't really getting anything out of them. At best, I think they may have made the very low end stay in tune a little more than without, but a quick mix screw adjustment as needed seemed even more effective there. On the piston port midbike engines (same thing as most gopeds) that I first used boost bottles on, they did improve performance and I would use them again.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 30, 2020 13:31:17 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 30, 2020 14:45:10 GMT -5
I got an interesting comment on the video already. Might have to try this. Never heard about it before. Jonas said : "Hello 49ccscoot. Its a common problem on HyperRacing scooters that the backplate on the vario breaks, i my self have broken atleast 4. However there is an easy solution to the problem. imgur.com/a/1KgSF2eIts easy to feel when the backplate starts breaking, as you will feel like the engine is engine-breaking on you, like in your truck. I think that the backplate breaking is the cause of your crankshaft bearing going bad, due to the big amount of unbalance. We make the spacers in different sizes so you can swap them out depending on how many shims you have in your vario.(To get clearances for your kickstarter stardrive) I dont recall the the minimum measurement that you are getting on your belts, but malossi states 1mm under new measurement. Hope the pictures help you, and will be looking forward to seeing you make on by yourself on the mini lathe."
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pewpew
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 254
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Post by pewpew on Nov 30, 2020 15:45:03 GMT -5
I got an interesting comment on the video already. Might have to try this. Never heard about it before. Jonas said : "Hello 49ccscoot. Its a common problem on HyperRacing scooters that the backplate on the vario breaks, i my self have broken atleast 4. However there is an easy solution to the problem. imgur.com/a/1KgSF2eIts easy to feel when the backplate starts breaking, as you will feel like the engine is engine-breaking on you, like in your truck. I think that the backplate breaking is the cause of your crankshaft bearing going bad, due to the big amount of unbalance. We make the spacers in different sizes so you can swap them out depending on how many shims you have in your vario.(To get clearances for your kickstarter stardrive) I dont recall the the minimum measurement that you are getting on your belts, but malossi states 1mm under new measurement. Hope the pictures help you, and will be looking forward to seeing you make on by yourself on the mini lathe." The stage6 variator kit has a bushing that looks like that behind the variator. You can see it on this picture: www.maxiscoot.com/en/product/stage6-r-t-variator-oversize-minarelli-china-2-stroke-13mm-stub-yamaha-aerox-bw-s-30989
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Post by tsimi on Nov 30, 2020 21:12:57 GMT -5
I am not sure how far in you are already with your repairs but I was curious to know, would a steel cage bearing like NTN be better suited for such high power, high rpm setup or is a polymer cage the way to go usually and you were just unlucky with yours?
I never used those polymer cage bearings. To be honest I never really mentioned what cage was in there I just happen to buy always NTN bearings with steel cages and never had issues with them.
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Post by hippo008 on Nov 30, 2020 23:09:13 GMT -5
I am not sure how far in you are already with your repairs but I was curious to know, would a steel cage bearing like NTN be better suited for such high power, high rpm setup or is a polymer cage the way to go usually and you were just unlucky with yours? I never used those polymer cage bearings. To be honest I never really mentioned what cage was in there I just happen to buy always NTN bearings with steel cages and never had issues with them. Ive heard that Polymer cage bearings are smoother but dont last as long. What that means in reality I have no idea. I dont see why you wouldnt use steel cage bearings. It just makes more sense to me, some piece of plastic vs machined steel.
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Post by 90GTVert on Nov 30, 2020 23:23:20 GMT -5
I used the TN9 bearings because that's what TPR supplied. I figured they should know what works well enough with their kit. I'm going to use the same bearings again, because I bought them right after I put the engine together. If they last 2,400 miles this time, the TPR kit will probably be done for anyway. The fail may not have been due to the bearing. Not sure how to say for sure if the ramp plate failed and took the bearing out or the bearing failed and took everything else out.
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Post by aeroxbud on Dec 1, 2020 6:37:24 GMT -5
Watching the video. It does seem like it all happened at the same time. And if the ramp plate did break first. I can well imagine at 14,000 RPM, the vibration from the variator was enough to destroy everything.
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Post by 190mech on Dec 1, 2020 6:50:55 GMT -5
I do like the wide aft collar bushing setup as the failure looks like support was poor there..Always thought the belt maxed out at high revs,now I see it only gets there during throttle off..Learn something new every day!
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Post by tsimi on Dec 1, 2020 8:11:11 GMT -5
So the "mark the variator to see if you get full travel" theory is not a major factor anymore to reach high max speeds? Because Brent never had full travel when going WOT, right?
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Post by captincvmn on Dec 1, 2020 8:29:44 GMT -5
Well, I think in theory you should have as much travel on both pulleys as possible to maximize ratios. T2 did use the full pulley just not under load. If it had been at full outside rim under load I think perhaps at “let off” it could have ramped out even further and rode up on a pulley rim.
I wonder if on a full width belt that’s what’s happening and slicing the belt near full rpm and ruining the belt?
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Post by hippo008 on Dec 1, 2020 9:46:31 GMT -5
I asked my coworker about CVT systems this morning. Mind you this guy has been a parts manager and tech for longer than I have been alive, more than 35 years now. His response was "them things don't make any sense. Nobody knows how those fuckin' things work. I can't stand em'" and walked away throwing his hands up in the air.
I'm convinced CVTs are some genie magic at this point.
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Post by aeroxbud on Dec 1, 2020 10:24:30 GMT -5
I asked my coworker about CVT systems this morning. Mind you this guy has been a parts manager and tech for longer than I have been alive, more than 35 years now. His response was "them things don't make any sense. Nobody knows how those fuckin' things work. I can't stand em'" and walked away throwing his hands up in the air. I'm convinced CVTs are some genie magic at this point. Ask him about the sliders, verses rollers debate.
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