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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 12, 2021 15:17:53 GMT -5
The whole Lectron thing really has me down. It’s not even my problem.... Imagine having the cash tied up in a carb (+intake, 2 pod filters, throttle springs) that you never thought you needed in the first place, but figured it would at least be real quick to tune. lol There does seem to be some hope after changing the float height. Don't have anything conclusive to report just yet, but I at least was able to richen up the metering rod after lowering fuel level. The top end clearly needs adjustment as it's not smooth at all when I hold WOT for very long. I'm not getting a lot done at once ATM. It's so loud with the pipe plus pod filter now that I feel like I've got to be irritating everyone around me. It may be in my head, but I'm trying not to do runs up and down the roads for too long at a time. I can't even imagine me trying to tune this thing in the suburbs. An HOA would probably burn me at the stake or something. ryan_ott was around it at the car show with the 25mm and an airbox and noticed that it's ridiculous, so it's not just me, and now it's even louder. It also won't idle high enough even with the screw turned in till just before the throttle gets stuck. I think I may know what's up there. I never put any thought into it the first time. I was just focused on the tuning and trying not to freeze. It died on me yesterday while I was sitting in the middle of the 50MPH road waiting to turn into my driveway. I thought about it for a sec. The idle screw has scored/gouged the slide where it rides. I think it may have actually made enough of an indentation where it is getting stuck that the speed screw just sits in there and that's why it sticks. It's on the wrong part of the slide to be truly bottomed out anyway, but again I wasn't really thinking when I checked the first time. Next time I go out there I'm going to check that. I also need to check my kickstart AGAIN. It's acting screwy. Works, but now it doesn't return. I just got the thing back together with new parts within the last 2 weeks and it worked great. It has already broken a kick gear tooth off and now refuses to return on it's own and rattles. I'm not sure if it's all the parts that don't match original stuff 100% anymore or maybe the worn out cover. The cover has worn where the bushing and gear go through with the splined section for the lever. I shim it with shim stock till the bushing has to be tapped in. Normally this would be sorta snug, but slide in easily. I can't really do that with shimming so I just get it tight. The lever works great at first though, and I don't feel resistance when turning the gear before the spring is installed. It's all of this little stuff that keeps adding up and makes me want to go for something like the RC-ONE where the whole setup is more robust. I don't know if that's truly any better though. Again, not many people actually ride them around much. It's really feeling like you get to a point with power and RPM that it starts to get too hard on everything to actually put miles on it. Kinda like I've figured for a long time, but didn't really know where that line is. Not that I can't ride it around, but it's a greater risk of failure and maintenance time/money/effort is nuts compared to a mild setup. It did OK with the Peace Pipe at 10,000-11,000RPM. Then the MHR came along and RPM went up to 13,000-14,000 and the setup became more demanding. Could be coincidence, but it appears to me that the line between hobby maintenance and becoming more of a pit crew than rider is somewhere between those 2 setups. EDIT : Oh yeah, and my water pump seal area looks nasty again. I think I should have replaced the whole pump. Debating on trying one of the fancy pumps. Not really sure if you get anything for the money though. If they would hold up better, I'd gladly do it. Flow isn't a big concern, I'm already underdriving this one a lot. If they aren't any more durable, then I'm better off at $40-50 per pump than $100+. The pump is worth a little figuring out to me, because that knowledge could be useful for any water cooled setup I ever run, stock to racing. Just not sure if I really wanna spend any more than I have to ATM. www.fastech-racing.com/new-line-aluminum-water-pump-black.htmlcometkartsales.com/WildKart-Billet-Aluminum-Water-Pump.html
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Post by captincvmn on Jan 12, 2021 20:20:56 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 12, 2021 20:22:36 GMT -5
I've been catching up on editing, which includes timing runs. So, I have been down to 3.4 0-30, with previous best averages at 3.3 using the 25mm carb. Prob means the throttle response is about as good as it's going to get, though I may try a setting directly between the 2 best. I dunno. May just leave it, as the best so far is a richer setting than that.
It's slower the rest of the way by 3-4 tenths. It's clearly not right WOT on the power jet setting though. I think that being right should reel it in a bit. The clutch/CVT was also scrutinized to get my best averages, so I don't expect to equal those at this point. Something like a couple tenths of a mm of shimming or belt width can be enough to throw it off vs it's best times.
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 12, 2021 22:45:25 GMT -5
EDIT : Oh yeah, and my water pump seal area looks nasty again. I think I should have replaced the whole pump. Debating on trying one of the fancy pumps. Not really sure if you get anything for the money though. If they would hold up better, I'd gladly do it. Flow isn't a big concern, I'm already underdriving this one a lot. If they aren't any more durable, then I'm better off at $40-50 per pump than $100+. The pump is worth a little figuring out to me, because that knowledge could be useful for any water cooled setup I ever run, stock to racing. Just not sure if I really wanna spend any more than I have to ATM. www.fastech-racing.com/new-line-aluminum-water-pump-black.htmlcometkartsales.com/WildKart-Billet-Aluminum-Water-Pump.htmlBrent those pumps look as disappointing as your current pump, would it kill them to put more mounting points on them? Lol Since I will be needing a pump for my build, I have been searching for an alternative pump to use. There are a few water pumps for motorcycles I have been looking into. Yamaha Raptor water pump Do you think they would last longer? You mentioned that you are underdriving the pump, what does that term mean? Just that it is slower than the crankshaft?
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Post by captincvmn on Jan 12, 2021 22:56:08 GMT -5
From what I recall from watching the pump video the drive pulley is about 1/2 the size of the driven pulley. Since Brent is using a toothed belt the actual drive ratio is calculable accurately and easily versus a smooth belt where you’d have to find actual belt path circumference for each pulley. I’m gonna totally guess and say the pulleys are 8 and 16 teeth for a ratio of 8:16 or 1:2
Tomorrow I’ll see how far off I am.
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Post by captincvmn on Jan 12, 2021 23:02:14 GMT -5
For full on sexy it comes in transparent
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 13, 2021 4:57:37 GMT -5
Since I will be needing a pump for my build, I have been searching for an alternative pump to use. There are a few water pumps for motorcycles I have been looking into. Yamaha Raptor water pump Do you think they would last longer? You mentioned that you are underdriving the pump, what does that term mean? Just that it is slower than the crankshaft? I would guess that the Yamaha pump would be more durable than a kart racing pump, based just on the idea of OEM vs racing. Looking at pics, it appears to be a more sturdy design. I guess you can take underdrive in different ways. Could apply in 2 ways to my setup. My pump is indeed turning slower than the crank, so underdriven relative to the crank. I'm using 12T on the crank and 30T on the pump, so the pump spins at about 40% of crank speed. You could also say it's underdriven based on the ratios that it seems to be commonly used in on karts. My pump only spins up to under 6,000RPM max.
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Post by Lucass2T on Jan 13, 2021 5:24:51 GMT -5
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 13, 2021 5:47:26 GMT -5
The idea of any airbox, not sure that it would end up all that scientific, was put off till I see if it's even worth all of the trouble for the big carb. Same for the under seat area. The bucket I'm using is all busted up and I have to carry everything in my tool bag ATM to be sure it doesn't fall out. I talked to Ryan about it only briefly when we were at the car show, but he said he thinks the Malossi exhausts are just normally an aggressive sound with their silencers. The Yasuni C16 on his is much more mild and less sharp of a tone. I thought about looking into the possibility of the larger Yasuni silencer fitting on, but haven't bothered. It's weird with me, because I enjoy the loud and abrasive racing kind of sound... aside from maybe the after effects like dull hearing after a ride or long term hearing damage (I know, earplugs). I'm amused buzzing past people eating on the sidewalk, or going WOT down a street with brick buildings on both sides in the upscale part of town where folks attempt to quietly enjoy historical sites and overpriced shops. On the other hand, I feel kinda bad going up and down the road when I'm doing tuning, because I assume it gets old to the neighbors after a while.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 13, 2021 7:59:31 GMT -5
I think the throttle jamming when turned in and then not being able to adjust it was a stupid issue on my part. If I hold the throttle open a little and then turn the idle speed screw in, it engages the ramp and not the flat spot on the top of the carb. It was 7:30AM so I wasn't gonna fire it up and find out for sure, but that should work.
The kick start spring came off of the post that it hooks around. Just put it back without having to disassemble the whole thing. I really think it's that some replacement stuff just doesn't fit exactly like OEM. If it does it again, maybe I can put something on that post to prevent the spring from sliding off.
MR is set halfway between the 2 best results. Might as well try it. Hard frost right now. Just waiting for temps to come up so test conditions are close to the last runs.
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Post by captincvmn on Jan 13, 2021 9:36:56 GMT -5
I guessed 8t and 16t Actual was 12t and 30t I lose.
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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 13, 2021 11:55:49 GMT -5
I guessed 8t and 16t Actual was 12t and 30t I lose. I know I should of taken that bet.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 13, 2021 15:05:15 GMT -5
I tried the metering rod at the halfway point between the 2 best tests. It wasn't as good as the best test. Back to that setting and call the metering rod done... at least as long as nothing else happens with the launch.
Great. The power jet can be adjusted on the side of the road easily. I should be 1 ride away from getting that at least close!
The power jet was at 5.75 turns out. I went to 6.25 turns out, more fuel. Felt worse. I went in 0.5 turn at a time and it very gradually improved, till it ran the best with the power jet closed. It still didn't run clean WOT, but that was as good as it got. I went all the way to 7 turns out to be sure I wasn't missing something. It sounded a bit like a two-step when WOT at that point. You aren't supposed to ride with it closed, so I set it 1 turn out and headed home.
Along the way, I pulled over to change the battery in the GoPro and I was gonna try 2 0-50 runs just to see if it did any better than before... even though it clearly isn't right with the power jet setting. It stalled as I pulled over. The kick start won't give me a good kick. Not returning, feels rough. I took the cover off, but the spring was still in place. "Hey, Dad... I'm on the side of the road again." The percentage of trips home under my own power on any test ride longer than 10 miles has not been good at all for me in recent months.
I haven't changed anything yet (not in the mood to talk to the camera anymore ATM), but I did dig out my kickstart stuff. It seems to me that the big kick gear and the little gear don't match up well. Maybe that's why the last one broke a tooth off? The current lil'un doesn't spin very well against the big'un. I can drop another one in and it spins great against the big gear. The spring was also off again, after I tried more to kick it when I reinstalled the cover on the roadside. I'm not sure if that spring would pop off if the gears matched well.
I really don't know what to do about the power jet. No setting allows me to run clean from all the way in (closed) to the point that it is breaking up horribly when turned way out. What's odd is that it used to run clean WOT. It changed before the float height adjustment, so it shouldn't be that. It seemed to just change one day... or maybe it doesn't like the metering rod being out very far. At first I was thinking the bowl could be draining, maybe a fuel supply issue, but I can make it super rich so that should not be the problem. I guess I'm going to have to wave the white flag and contact Lectron to see if they have the answer.
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Post by aeroxbud on Jan 13, 2021 15:26:53 GMT -5
I hope they can shed some light on what you are seeing. It's almost like the carb is too big.
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Post by captincvmn on Jan 13, 2021 15:32:55 GMT -5
I hope they can shed some light on what you are seeing. It's almost like the carb is too big. I was gonna ask if they make a smaller Lectron
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