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Post by waltinhawaii on Dec 28, 2012 3:25:57 GMT -5
Have been out of scooters a LONG time, took a long break to have a family. Now the kids are bigger and can change their own batteries in the gameboys, so I can go back to some stupid projects. just purchased an '03 Oliver, 49cc air cooled 2 stroke. Went to the *bay and bought a 90cc, 53mm bore/cylinder but it's liquid cooled. I have also seen the right side kits with a waterpump on the end of the crank; has anyone done this conversion? what else would be required aside from the obvious (radiator, hoses)?
Also, I just bought a 42mm crank as this kit said it is supposed to be for 53mm x 42mm; but when it came I belatedly realized my kit uses a 12mm wristpin and the crank is for a 10mm wristpin. argh. Has anyone reamed the small end to go up to a 12mm? or do you just buy another crank meant for a 12mm? If so, would appreciate the best vendors to use. Aloha!
walt
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Post by 190mech on Dec 28, 2012 5:32:12 GMT -5
A temp gauge would be a nice addition..
The rod cant be reamed as its hardened tool steel,you'll need to bore the cases to get the 90 stuff to fit of find some other cases so they'll fit..
Keep us posted!
=John=
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Post by jmkjr72 on Dec 28, 2012 8:48:41 GMT -5
a temp gauge is a must or you will have to find a plug to plug the hole in the head for it
water pump
drive bosses(i had to make mine for the zuma as the ones i found were not long enough to drive the water pump
you will need to make a stator cover (you will find a nice hole that is covered by the cooling platics by the stator that will allow water and crap in so you need to make a cover for it
paf and over flow and hoses
a bit of time and a lot of thinking as you go
i belive i have lots of pics of my first lc build in the project lcz thread
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Post by 90GTVert on Dec 28, 2012 8:56:38 GMT -5
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Post by waltinhawaii on Dec 29, 2012 0:47:44 GMT -5
Outstanding! Thanks guys. Wondered how the pump was driven... none of the pics I've seen showed that holed plate.
will have to go read that thread to find out how to get my 12mm cylinder kit to live with my 10mm crank.
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Post by jmkjr72 on Dec 29, 2012 13:50:01 GMT -5
a piston with a 10mm wrist pin hole but with that large of a piston i wouldnt do it
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Post by waltinhawaii on Jan 1, 2013 15:22:58 GMT -5
Yeah, the weight of a large piston is a concern  so, did I just buy the wrong crank? I saw a "10mm to 12mm cage adapter" for sale by S6 racing; is that something that works well? I was playing with the idea (in my head) of cutting down a 12mm wristpin on one side only, a stepped wristpin; then it will work on one side with a 12mm piston but you can run it on a 10mm conrod/cage; and on the other side, just press in a small spacer over the 10mm (really, there is no reason to hold it there, can be 9mm or less, but it will get weaker the smaller you cut it) to go back up to 12mm to hold it in the other side of the piston. Has anyone done this successfully? Or does anyone ream the conrod wristpin hole out to 12mm? is there enough material to do that? Or does everyone just buy 12mm cranks for the larger bore conversions? I still don't know if I have a large taper or small taper, plan on pulling the side panel off (maybe today!) to check... does everyone just work with whatever taper they have in the case? or do you convert the cases from small to large taper? Man, I've got so much to learn... aloha, walt |
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Post by shakerdriver on Jan 1, 2013 17:15:16 GMT -5
I'm running a 10mm wrist pin in my 97cc race motor with no problems so far. It ran above 11000rpms on a regular basis all race season. A 10mm wrist pin can perform just as well as a 12mm is what I'm getting at.
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using proboards
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Post by waltinhawaii on Jan 1, 2013 17:22:54 GMT -5
OK, took the left side cover off... and found this. sigh. I did say it was used, right? Kids are alright, but when they get their grubby little hands on pneumatics for the first time... watch out.  It appears to be a long case? I have to drop the engine and inspect the cylinder for more info. This is my first minarelli, be gentle with me  Measuring up the drive boss, I get 21mm. so, which crank do i get now??  |
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Post by 2strokd on Jan 2, 2013 10:53:34 GMT -5
Why not just get a piston with a 10mm pin?
With your scooter being an 03 model the size of the vari shaft means nothing as far as the piston pin size.
I have found this year to be either or.. Its a crap shot. I had one with a 16mm vari shaft and 10mm piston pin.
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Post by 190mech on Jan 2, 2013 12:26:25 GMT -5
Dont think a 10mm pin ,53mm piston can be had...
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Aaron420e
Scoot Enthusiast
2008 Keeway F-ACT Racing
Posts: 430
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Post by Aaron420e on Jan 2, 2013 15:45:37 GMT -5
Looks like that vario needs some spacers in it...
Or the belt is wrong size???
The belt should be at the top of the rear and the bottom of the front.
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Post by waltinhawaii on Jan 2, 2013 22:59:38 GMT -5
Aaron, I thought much the same, but it's never run while in my possession due to carb problem, so I can't get the belt to sit 'normally'. I was thinking of getting a 28mm carb as part of the build anyway, so wasn't really concerned about existing carb being problematic. I will also need a large selection of jets.
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Post by 190mech on Jan 3, 2013 5:35:18 GMT -5
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Aaron420e
Scoot Enthusiast
2008 Keeway F-ACT Racing
Posts: 430
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Post by Aaron420e on Jan 3, 2013 6:01:51 GMT -5
Aaron, I thought much the same, but it's never run while in my possession due to carb problem, so I can't get the belt to sit 'normally'. I was thinking of getting a 28mm carb as part of the build anyway, so wasn't really concerned about existing carb being problematic. I will also need a large selection of jets. OK.... Just looked weird to me. I just did a rebuild on my Horz Mina longcase. I'm no expert like 190Mech, but I may be able to help. I went with the Dellorto 21mm PHBG. It uses 5mm dello jets. |
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Measuring up the drive boss, I get 21mm. so, which crank do i get now??
