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Post by waltinhawaii on Oct 22, 2013 11:11:53 GMT -5
Hi Ryan, yes, the top gears are the ones you linked to, thanks! ratio is about 11.2 : 1
I have a large hill everyday, so wanted to try these first. I'm about 180 lbs. If its still too low I'll see about trading someone for a set of 10.1 : 1. I also have some thoughts I'd like to try out regarding the variator and the rear pulley, but this is the first bike I am working on that has either one, so I have no experience with either, I'll have to learn as I go.
The pipe is a technigas, I don't know the model; but its for a honda. I bought it used but there is absolutely no carbon inside, looks new. In the pics if you see chrome, that's the stock pipe. I'm cutting up the stock pipe and the technigas and using the cones from both to make my pipe since I've rolled cones before and it is NOT fun, mostly a lot of handwork bashing a piece of sheetmetal around an arbor or anvil of some sort.
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Post by kevin55950 on Oct 22, 2013 11:13:59 GMT -5
Top performance gears are great, way better than the stage6 who whistle like a supercharger IMO, have you took the coated version? I know some models come coated to last longer when you have a lot of power. Exhaust work is great! Modding a pipe is a lot of work, even fitting an aerox pipe on a zuma is sometimes a lot of pain. keep up the good work  |
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Post by 2strokd on Oct 22, 2013 11:35:15 GMT -5
Looking very good here! You guys that tackle these pipe builds have my respect for sure.
I have cut and changed the belly on one and that was enough for me. Takes lots of talent,time, and patients!
Peace Pipes are a steal at Johns asking price, but the man loves building a good tuned pipe and is good at it!
Thanks for what you do 190mech!
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Post by waltinhawaii on Oct 24, 2013 3:21:49 GMT -5
More pipework. Here, I want to make the cone steeper; I've cut the cone lengthwise for most of its length, and then tap it onto the horn of the anvil to spread it out a little... you can see the anvil is in terrible shape, the horn is rust pitted from decades of neglect. I ran a sander over it just so that it would be mostly flat for use, but its going to be a long job to recondition it I'm afraid. the flat part is smooth for serious work and the horn is mostly shaped correctly; the price was right when I got it (free for helping out a friend on a project), so I can't complain.  Here I've cut a sliver of metal with a hand shear to make a rough fit into the V in the cone:  Cones are welded up and the flange is welded to the header:  Beast is taking shape!   |
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Post by 190mech on Oct 24, 2013 4:45:02 GMT -5
That chrome welds nice!Are you planning on running a center stand?The dang thing takes up a lot of nice pipe room..I usually tack weld mine before final welding to make changes during OOPS! moments on a first time pipe build..Dang!I think all the V notching is more work than snipping out a new piece..Old washers and dryers make for nice scrounge sheet metal for building pipes..
John
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Post by waltinhawaii on Oct 24, 2013 11:37:33 GMT -5
I would have tacked everything together first, but I don't have all my cones yet  I just wanted to put what I have together to see what was taking shape to give me an idea of what angles to cut the cones I still need. Although from here they will be mostly straight, the angled part of the build is only near the header and around the right side/under the crank. Since I have 2 pipes, there is extra material to donate for the pieces I have to make. I just don't have a big shear, so hard to cut; using tin snips, looks like a big scissors. And v notching is definitely more work than making it from scratch! But I don't have a program for that, the last cones I made, I had to sketch out by hand, then it was the ol' cut-n-try method, pure kentucky windage. It had so many unpleasant memories that I am staying away from trying to roll my own cones for this one No center stand, figure the sidestand should be enough and I didn't want the pipe routing to be too complex. One Pipe I made, the header coiled around itself like a cinnabon to gain in length before coming out; that was specifically for a bike to do wheelies, peaked very low, long pipe. |
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Post by 190mech on Oct 24, 2013 19:05:05 GMT -5
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Post by waltinhawaii on Oct 24, 2013 21:51:24 GMT -5
John, you ain't gonna git me that easy Last time I bent up a cone made me never wanna do THAT again! even with gloves my hands remember the hammering and bending. Not fun. You guys with slip rollers can laugh all you want; it ain't never gonna be fun doing it by hand on an anvil. |
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Post by 190mech on Oct 25, 2013 4:29:23 GMT -5
Ive built quite a few with an old car front strut shaft in a vice and hammer(still use it for finishing today).Yep,I agree,a small roller does make it a bit easier and rounder,its still a bunch of work to get the proper curve even with a roller!  |
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Post by waltinhawaii on Oct 25, 2013 11:35:11 GMT -5
Rube Goldberg's shop!! you got too much space on yer bench; mine has no free space at all, have to move 3 or 4 projects just to make a clean spot:( Thanks for the tip on the compound cutters; I just ordered 2, a left and a right hand pair. I have a Wiss tin snips but they are plain, not compound action. hard on the hands. |
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Post by 190mech on Oct 25, 2013 11:51:28 GMT -5
Yep,thats my nickname..Thats when the workbench was clean,oughta see it now!  |
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Post by aeroxbud on Oct 26, 2013 10:09:12 GMT -5
Yep,thats my nickname..Thats when the workbench was clean,oughta see it now! I was going to say, there is room on that bench for at least one two stroke motor lol Your pipes coming along well. It is a seriously long job building your own two stroke pipe. |
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Post by waltinhawaii on Oct 26, 2013 13:59:11 GMT -5
Yah, it's a tough one. Not tough in concept, but in execution it's a pain in the @ss because of all the juggling with the dimensions and directions the finished pipe is going if the errors stack up on the wrong side of probability. Good news, I found this in the tool drawer:  An offset compound aviation snip! I just ordered 2, a left and right handed pair... so this one is extra. Looks to be in good shape. So, FIRST ONE TO POST THE CORRECT ANSWER to a question I will post in a bit, will get this one in the mail for FREE. Be honest, this is a gesture to help our guys who are having a hard time making ends meet and have little tooling. So give the little guys a chance. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 26, 2013 14:05:36 GMT -5
Very cool of you Walt.
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Post by waltinhawaii on Oct 28, 2013 11:56:22 GMT -5
Thanks Brent! OK, here's the question: NO googling answers or looking it up! If you don't know from memory, or can't guess, then don't answer!
Why are modern railroad ties spaced 4' 8 1/2" apart? (not moped related, but it does have wheels!)
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I just wanted to put what I have together to see what was taking shape to give me an idea of what angles to cut the cones I still need. Although from here they will be mostly straight, the angled part of the build is only near the header and around the right side/under the crank. Since I have 2 pipes, there is extra material to donate for the pieces I have to make. I just don't have a big shear, so hard to cut; using tin snips, looks like a big scissors. And v notching is definitely more work than making it from scratch! But I don't have a program for that, the last cones I made, I had to sketch out by hand, then it was the ol' cut-n-try method, pure kentucky windage. It had so many unpleasant memories that I am staying away from trying to roll my own cones for this one 
