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Post by dan50 on May 19, 2017 3:25:32 GMT -5
This is Stage 1 of the engine build because it was cheaper. Stage 2 will be as follows (after saving up some cash); I am going to buy a completely assembled longcase stroker engine from Scooters to go in Wyoming, MI. (Grand Rapids, MI. area). This engine is fully assembled (except for the CVT) and I believe it comes with the carb. Price is about $400. When I install that engine, I am going to go to 12" wheels & tires (that will get me faster). When I order the engine I am going have them press the final drive gears into the case. I don't know of anybody around me that will press gears on a scooter motor. When Stage 2 is done, I will swap the 47mm BBK 139QMB into my SunL Passeo. I'm also building a 2t. I bought a Jog90 Longcase 2t engine from Scrappydogs for $395 (even has the CVT variator, clutch and belt installed into it with 10.25/1 gears. This one also will change to 12' wheels & tires. That build will be in my Kaliber LS thread; 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/7123/kaliber-scooter-mods-performance-partsI'm going to have a 3 screamers sitting in the garage to have fun with!
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Post by dan50 on May 19, 2017 23:58:41 GMT -5
The stock head on my Dongfang has a stripped bolthole that 1 of the bolts holding the valve cover on threads into.
I just ordered from Parts For Scooters a 47mm completely assembled non emissions head for $49.99.
I also ordered a non emission valve cover for $17.99. I'm doing away with the PAIR system, which I have blocked off anyway.
From Scrappydogs I ordered a 47mm Complete gasket set for $19.95. I don't need all the gaskets, I need the valve cover & head gasket as well as the CVT cover gasket.
In the meantime, while waiting for these parts, I will start working on some electrical mods, All LED so I needti install a LED flasher unit and install my 12 LED driving light.
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Post by dan50 on May 20, 2017 0:02:01 GMT -5
I ran into a problem with this build.
I removed the stock air filter and am using a free flow air filter.
I installed a oil catch can, but it isn't venting properly (I have it hooked up to the vent line from the valve cover.
Any ideas on how I can get the cranckcase to vent properly will be greatly appreciated.
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Post by dan50 on May 27, 2017 0:31:39 GMT -5
I removed the oil catch can, it didn't vent the crankcase for crap. I installed a hose from the valve cover vent to a PCV valve that vents to the atmosphere. I put the air filter from the PAIR system on the other enf of the PCV valve. I hope my crankcase will vent properly now. Brent has a video about why NOT to use a oil catch can to vent a scooter engine, THEY DON'T WORK!
Tore down my engine with the 47mm BBK on it. I checked the lineup of the rings and they were correct.
Put the cylinder back on, then installed a new 47mm completely assembled non emissions head from Parts For Scooters, $49. I'm doing away with the PAIR system.
Installed the A-9 cam and rocker arm assembly, torqued the nuts to 16 foot pounds. I will install the non emissions valve cover (from Parts For Scooters, $17) Saturday 5/27/17.
I'll set the valve lash, and finish the engine including putting the engine shroud back on (which is the hardest part of doing an engine).
Then I'll take it for a test ride and see how it performs with the 47mm head compared to the stock head.
I'll post more when I get it back together and take it for a test ride.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 28, 2017 15:39:01 GMT -5
Brent has a video about why NOT to use a oil catch can to vent a scooter engine, THEY DON'T WORK! Not my vid. I watched it in the past and it seemed appropriate to post in your other thread. You can use a catch can, but they have to be setup in a different way. Can't create a sealed system.
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Post by dan50 on May 30, 2017 3:33:51 GMT -5
I ran into a problem putting the 47mm head on my Dongfang. When I was tightening the nuts on the engine studs, I noticed that the one I was tightening was longer than the other 3. A split second later- POP, the stud snapped.
After a lot of bad words and thinking the worst that the stud broke in the crankcase which means easy outing it, or worse, replacing the engine. When I took the cylinder off I saw that the stud broke about 1" outside of the crankcase. I used a pair of pliers to loosen it and took it out the rest of the way by hand. No damage to the threads.
I got on Parts For Scooters and found out that there is 2 lengths of engine studs, 168mm and 176mm. I removed one of the other studs (3 were the same length), measured the good stud at 168mm and the broken stud at 176mm. Someone at the factory installed the wrong size stud!
Good part is a new stud is $1.99 + shipping. I also ordered a new set of nuts and washers for the studs($1.99 + shipping). The bad part is I have to wait 3 days for them so I can finish my engine build.
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Post by dan50 on May 31, 2017 1:19:18 GMT -5
While I'm waiting for my cylinder studs to arrive so I can finish my 47mm BBK build, I removed all the plastics so I can sand and paint them. Some panels have scratches and I have some new panels to paint. I am painting it a dark wine color. I am also going to see what I can do to make the forks look better, one has scale on it, the other is dirty. Pics;
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Post by dan50 on Jun 1, 2017 0:11:39 GMT -5
I sanded & painted the headlight cover.
I have some new plastics, so they won't need sanded.
I don't have any 3M Wax ^ Grease remover, so I found out that carb cleaner works real well to clean a surface for painting. I tested the carb cleaner on a plastic piece I'm not keeping, no damage to the plastic or the paint, and the carb cleaner dries real fast with no leftover film. I have a lot of oil on my hands, so if I touch a piece to be painted it will fisheye. I wear white cotton gloves to handle parts after they are cleaned.
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Post by dan50 on Jun 1, 2017 0:21:28 GMT -5
I also mounted a 136db (LOUD) air horn on my scoot. Maybe now somebody might hear my horn.
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Post by kagetenshi on Jun 1, 2017 20:44:27 GMT -5
I also mounted a 136db (LOUD) air horn on my scoot. Maybe now somebody might hear my horn. Is it one of the 12v powered all in one styles? Or is it one of those things people take to sports events? If it is the powered kind I'm interested in what the amount draw for the small compressor on it does to the scoots charging system/battery.
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Post by dan50 on Jun 2, 2017 0:13:04 GMT -5
The air horn is an all in 1 unit I got off Ebay for about $20= free shipping.
When I blow the horn, the light don't dim. I have LED headlight & taillight/brake light. The headlight draws 10watts, the taillight draws 5 watts/10watts. I'm waiting on an LED flasher unit so I can put 1watt LED light in each turn signal (stock bulbs are 10watts each). Power consumption for all lights will be less that a 35watt regular headlight bulb. That gives me power for the horn.
I also have a 7amp-hour battery.
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Post by greggkinney on Jun 2, 2017 7:30:50 GMT -5
is there any pics or links to the LED lights in this thread? are they 12v or a.c? thanks...looking nice, great job on the paint!
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Post by dan50 on Jun 2, 2017 23:58:10 GMT -5
Here's a link to the LED headlights I use; www.banggood.com/12V-10W-1500LM-5800K-Motorcycle-Scooter-LED-universal-Built-Spotlight-Headlight-p-1052702.htmlThese lights are bright and give off a very white light. The focal point of the lowbeam stays when using highbeam. On highbeam, both beams are on. The highbeam fills in the area nicely. Banggood has an American warehouse, if they are in stock at the American warehouse you get them in 3 or 4 days. All scooter lights are DC. An AC scooter just means that the lights work off the stater when the engine is running, not the battery
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Post by dan50 on Jun 9, 2017 1:31:45 GMT -5
I have another setback on my 47mm BBK build.
After getting my replacement cylinder studs, I assembled the engine with the new 47mm head and when I went to adjust the valves, I found out the stock 39mm head has 69mm valve stems and my new head has 64mm valve stems.
I had to order a new set of rocker arms (there is a difference in shape for the different length valve stems).
I didn't want to put the stock head back on and then in a few days have to tear the engine apart and swap heads.
In the meantime, I'll (hopefully) get the body panels painted.
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Post by dan50 on Jun 13, 2017 0:40:28 GMT -5
I did some painting tonight. Painted the front body panels, the headlight cover, front piece that has the turn signals mounted in it and the front fender. I sprayed 5 light coats of Krylon Burgundy for plastic that is paint & primer in one. Going to let them dry and I'll wetsand them tomorrow night.
I also sanded the forks, they looked like the metal (or coating) was flaking off. Looked like scale. I painted the forks the same color as the body.
The rear panels I'll paint after I get the engine back together. My rocker arms should be here soon.
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