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Post by 2TDave on Jul 16, 2014 20:24:44 GMT -5
Roger that! Thank you!
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Post by 2strokd on Jul 17, 2014 5:06:11 GMT -5
Looks good man! That should make it flow much better
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Post by 2TDave on Jul 17, 2014 5:12:28 GMT -5
Thanks Robert! Anyone have any advise on working on an aluminum cylinder with these hard coatings. I messed with an Airsal years ago and it chipped the coating pretty good. I'm going to check durations when the crank gets here but I'm leaning to leaving the ports alone because of the coating.
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Post by 2TDave on Jul 17, 2014 5:40:37 GMT -5
I put the shorter bar stem on last night. Dropped the bars about 1 1/2" and looks better.  |
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Post by scoobnz on Jul 18, 2014 3:06:32 GMT -5
Thanks Robert! Anyone have any advise on working on an aluminum cylinder with these hard coatings. I messed with an Airsal years ago and it chipped the coating pretty good. I'm going to check durations when the crank gets here but I'm leaning to leaving the ports alone because of the coating. Looking good Dave! I used to use Silicon Carbide grinding stones when dealing with the nikasil on my RS125R Cylinders. It's touch and go though  Depending on how think the coating is and how they cured it depended on how easily it flaked. The Original HRC coatings were ridiculously hard to mark up with anything except diamond cutters!! Try the green silicon carbide cutting stones and take it slow, they leave a lovely finish |
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Post by 2TDave on Jul 18, 2014 5:38:58 GMT -5
Thanks Scoob! I'm really happy with all the parts you led me to and Angus is great to deal with! I'll look into the cutters when my crank gets here next week. Have you got any new builds going? The last one was awesome!
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Post by moofus02 on Jul 18, 2014 7:58:46 GMT -5
That bike is looking good. I was wondering about working with the aluminum cylinders. Got one of Doc's kits and didn't know what to use to chamfer the ports with.
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by 2TDave on Jul 18, 2014 9:50:54 GMT -5
Yeah I don't want to risk a new cylinder testing burs and stones. Wish I had a crap one to practice with.
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Post by moofus02 on Jul 18, 2014 10:47:36 GMT -5
I understand that thought
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by 2TDave on Jul 18, 2014 16:43:08 GMT -5
Crank shipped today! Should be able to start assembly at the beginning of the week.  |
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Post by 190mech on Jul 18, 2014 18:40:14 GMT -5
I dont have much Nikasil port experience,but from what the top tuners say is the nikasil laps into the ports,if the ports are ground the 'lap' is gone,thus flaking soon appears..They have the nikasil stripped,then port it,then have it re nikasiled..Kinda expensive for us "backyard tuners"!!I feel the only safe option is to adjust the port timings thru gasket spacing,piston crown work and cyl head work..
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Post by 2TDave on Jul 18, 2014 18:49:18 GMT -5
Thanks man. I have a guy with a lathe that can do the head work if needed. I'm going to hope for the best and see what adjustments are needed when it goes together. What kind of durations should I be aiming for with this setup? Also do you guys put a plate over the starter hole? Or just leave it open for venting?
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Post by 190mech on Jul 18, 2014 19:29:03 GMT -5
More holes = More cooling!  |
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Post by 2strokd on Jul 19, 2014 10:33:36 GMT -5
At least 185/130 ish  |
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Post by 2TDave on Jul 19, 2014 11:33:10 GMT -5
Thanks Robert. Note to self and others, do all your media blasting with everything apart. I had put the gear box back together to keep a buddy from blasting any bearing surfaces. Well he hasn't been able to do it so I bought a cheep hopper style gun at hf and some ground glass. It came out well enought for paint but I got that stuff through a vent hole that I missed sealing so I had to pull it apart and clean it with brake cleaner and air. Managed to get it clean and the bearings spinning and sounding good. What a hassle and knowing myself I will be imaging noises and impending doom. Ugh!
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