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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 4, 2015 23:51:31 GMT -5
Nice to finally see the Frankenmobile!
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 5, 2015 0:30:01 GMT -5
Thanks, there were older pics in this thread before. It looks pretty much the same. Externally the muffler, aux tail lights, and floor board mods are the only new things. When in the next phase of mods I add the H4 headlamp and another pod switch that will make it look different again.
I am also working on finding and installing some rubber bushings for the front shock mounts. The metal on metal Heim type joints are not good. Maybe the rears also.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 6, 2015 15:54:19 GMT -5
The 62 picture slideshow now has descriptive titles. Maybe this link will work better than a slideshow:s101.photobucket.com/user/FrankenMech/storyIt seems to work better. but I have to click on a pic to see the titles. Still kind of a PITA. Working with photobucket on IE is a REAL PITA. At least it kinda works on IE when it does not work at all with my FireFox. |
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Post by 190mech on Jan 6, 2015 19:21:05 GMT -5
I like the car muffler mod,have done the same for years on many small engines,makes riding lawnmowers nice and quiet..The huge volume allows the exhaust gasses to expand and cool which are the best ways to silence an engine..Added benefit is the back pressure is nill making it as good as the best "performance" mufflers out there!!  |
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 6, 2015 20:41:15 GMT -5
I can put my hand over the outlet and nothing really happens. It takes so long to pump up that volume with a 50cc that the engine does not even bog. It was the smallest 'Real' muffler I could find. I could have installed the muffler without two clamps. The DOM tubing was actually a press fit over the original exhaust pipe. It is on there now so I won't mess with it again.
I looked at all kinds of mufflers for scoots and none of them had any valid claims in their descriptions. They all said power or performance. I didn't find any that said 'quiet'.
The Walker was also cheaper than any scoot muffler. The SS clamps were about $8 each and shipping was about $8 also. That made them almost as much as the muffler.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 12, 2015 22:49:37 GMT -5
The present carb connections are detailed in the Carb Connections picture in the link above^^^
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 14, 2015 23:00:22 GMT -5
Maybe this link will work better than a slideshow: s101.photobucket.com/user/FrankenMech/storySo far: The fuel bowl vent worked OK plugged off at low RPM operation. It did not work at high 8000+RPM operation. The fuel bowl vent plugged caused flooding while starting and filling the carb with the EMPI electric pump. The fuel bowl vent open with a filter worked OK up to about 9000RPM. The fuel bowl vent connected to the intake airhorn behind the filter through an internal carb passage seems to work well at any RPM so far and gives no trouble with the EMPI pump. This vent configuration would be found on most 1V through 4V full size automotive carburetors. At present the EMPI fuel pump is activated whenever the starter is energized. I have a new aux handlebar pod switch to use with my DC electrical system conversion and Day/Night LED/H4 headlight system. The aux pod switch has an extra switch normally used for turn signals that will be used to control the EMPI pump. I hope to find out why my ATV primer pump is leaking fuel at around 13-14" of vacuum and fix it. It may just be varnish from disuse during the summer. Once that is fixed or replaced I will be able to clean up some of my snake pit of test connections around the carb. Tightening the screws that hold the sandwiched body of the vacuum operated fuel pump together solved the leaks in that pump. I had to use my set of security torx drivers to tighten them. I have no idea why they came loose. The next time I have that pump out I may tighten them again and use green penetrating Loctite on the threads. That pump is a PITA to get out between the engine, frame rail, and the EMPI pump. |
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Post by Clank on Jan 16, 2015 4:36:23 GMT -5
Wow!
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Post by Clank on Jan 16, 2015 4:50:45 GMT -5
What size carb is that? And where did you find a vented cover for your deceleration pump?
I dig your Sloopy, he matches your ride. I'm curious how it works pluging the bowl vent? You don't get vapor lock from that? Jiminy Cricket I think I hurt my brain trying to take this all in.
Fucking Awesome Brother!!
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 16, 2015 11:36:35 GMT -5
The carb is a 125-150cc replacement off ePay: Gy6 125cc 150cc Performance Carb sold by partsfox2009 The OD and ID of air filter connector side are 42mm and 38mm. The OD and ID of intake connector side are 32mm and 24mm. www.ebay.com/itm/Gy6-125cc-150cc-Performance-Carb-GAS-FILTER-Moped-Scooter-Carburetor-ATV-Go-Kart-/150749621882?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item231960ae7aIf I remember right it is a 20 or 22mm carb. I don't see the figures in the ad anymore. I just bought a caarb with the right configuration that was supposedly jetted for a perforrmance filter so I could throw that POS stock airbox and carb in the trash. Actually they are in the spare parts box but they can stay there. I never heard such a ration of garbage in my life as tuning a carb to an air filter. Carb size does NOT matter as much as many would have you think. Just compare the area of the carb venturi. 125% or 150% is not going to kill your bike, 200% might 300% will... On a 50cc I ride at full throttle most of the time anyway. Deceleration valves (Whatdat valves) are found with many different cover designs. This carb's valve would normally be vented to a 'Tee' in the manifold vacuum line. I drilled a hole in the carb outlet and stuck in a piece of 3/16" brass tubing and connected it there. I have found a 'Tee' in the vacuum pump line on my scoot could starve the carb for fuel on a long high speed run. It is real embarrassing to have a China scoot sputter and die in front of a biker bar full of HD riders for want of fuel. The only good thing about having to pull in next door to fix it was not to have to throw a few Hundred Dollar bills at it. Plugging the bowl vent completely gave the results listed above^^^. It is vented to the air horn directly below/behind the air filter like it should be now. The vent point was one of the enricher valve ports. I may drill the carb out at some point and make a real vent port for it opposite the adjustable fuel valve. I keep reducing long lengths of vacuum and fuel line to small pieces. Getting clamps for fuel lines etc is the real problem. I have not found a source yet that didn't sell junk Asian steel parts that have no spring steel in them. They work better as twist ties. I could tell the suppliers; "come on, test the parts. Give them a little squeeze with clamp pliers and SEE if they return to shape!" Even the big name, high $$, 'Dorman' parts sold in parts stores are absolute junk. There have to be suppliers out there. The OEM parts seem to work. The inlet filter was purchased from TVNACMAN and is a true 41 or 42mm filter. Many filters say 41 or 42mm but the rubber boot just has a 25-30mm hole in it. Watch the ad pictures carefully. I did a lot of thinking and figuring on that carb configuration and a lot of tinkering before I came up with the right combo. The carb is probably jetted a little rich right out of the box but it runs smooth. I don't even need the adjustable valve at present so it is shut down almost completely. I leave it open a smidgen to keep it from varnishing up. I would also like to figure up some carb support instead of hanging it off the rubber intake and plastic air box like the OEM setup. Mine just has the rubber manifold now, -not good... I still need to get my mill and lathe up working and make my own aluminum intakes to match my hardware instead of those rubber junkers. -Sorry about the long post. I am in a semi-pissed mood today. |
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 16, 2015 16:35:19 GMT -5
I made a bracket to sit on top of the starter to support the air intake and filter. The air filter clamp goes around the air filter rubber and around the bracket. The 'C' shaped bracket has a bit of foam rubber under it where it sits on the starter.
Cleaning the ATV primer bulb with a loop of tubing filled with carb cleaner and pumping it through did not help fix it. It will hold 10" of vacuum but gas will flow through at higher vacuum. I have it connected to that airhorn port for the enricher along with the bowl vent now. It will squirt some gas into the carb intake and bowl but not as planned.
I am still pissed. I am waiting around the house when I should be riding.
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Post by Clank on Jan 17, 2015 2:00:22 GMT -5
So is it bad to connect both vacuum ports on the intake with one vac line? Vac plugs keep going to poo quick and leaking so I just looped a line to them.
Also the line from your bowl vent to bowl drain that u said was level check isn't working? Am I understanding that right? Sorry I'm getting something and brains not working well. It almost feels like flu symptoms.
And you added the dial a jet intake, how did you seal the bread tube u installed?
It's definitely intriguing design Frank.
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 17, 2015 11:14:18 GMT -5
So is it bad to connect both vacuum ports on the intake with one vac line? Vac plugs keep going to poo quick and leaking so I just looped a line to them. Also the line from your bowl vent to bowl drain that u said was level check isn't working? Am I understanding that right? Sorry I'm getting something and brains not working well. It almost feels like flu symptoms. And you added the dial a jet intake, how did you seal the bread tube u installed? It's definitely intriguing design Frank. Questions are good. Flu is not, -take care! I have a fuel tank below my floor boards. The OEM system uses a vacuum powered pump unit to push the fuel UP to the carb. A tee in the vacuum line powering the pump made a restriction that caused the carb to run out of fuel on long high speed runs. Eliminating the 'Tee' eliminated that problem. It took three runs with some embarrassing situations to determine that. On scoots with a gravity feed fuel system it should not be a problem. The tank below the floor boards causes several problems. First, a fuel PUMP is needed. Second, the fuel drains back into the tank when the scoot sits for a while due to leaky valves. The valves may leak due to corrosion from Ethanol fuel or from crap in the OEM unfiltered suction line and filthy tank. In other words low level fuel tanks are a crappy idea with this china scoot piss-poor equipment and our crap gasoline! I just use ONE of the vacuum ports on my intake. The other one is plugged off. I used a big filter and the EMPI pump to form a kidney-loop filtration system to flush out the tank and you would not believe what was in the filter afterwards; sand, plastic, metal shavings, rust, organic matter, rubber, dirt, and just plain filth. I am sure they probably used a fuel test bottle, kind of like an engine IV for the PMI at the factory or warehouse if they really even started it at all. The importer claims they do a PMI and start test before final shipment but I realy doubt that even though they claim a $XX.XX 'value' you get from it when you buy from them. They could not have used the scoot fuel tank since they have to ship dry. Can you imagine fuel vapors in a shipping container -go BOOM? My unit had a dysfunctional starter switch and I really doubt it failed on the trip here. The scoot carbs do not have a fuel pressure rating that I have found. I did some estimating due to the height of the fuel column in a gravity feed system. I have those figures somewhere.... The level check line works perfectly. It just has to be vented to the bowl or intake air stream somehow to be exposed to the pressure inside the carb. The adjustable jet tube body was threaded 1/4"-28 so I just drilled and tapped a hole then secured the threads with green penetrating Loctite. I hope I don't have to take it out. |
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Post by Clank on Jan 17, 2015 23:17:48 GMT -5
So I have a 19mm Kunfu (whatever) carb that I thought was leaking from the accelerator pump or the back of the bowl, but after several cleanings to find the leak it appears to be coming from my carb bowl vent. The one with the bent house and angled cut. I like the idea of recirculating the fuel bank in.
If I do this with out any of your other mods what will it do? It's simple but I thought the vent was to allow air to escape as the bowl was filled with petrol?
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Post by FrankenMech on Jan 17, 2015 23:39:42 GMT -5
Fuel should NOT be leaking out of that port. There is something wrong with your float or float needle valve that is allowing the carb to flood. I am not familiar with your Kunfu or whatever carb though. I just know a little about REAL carbs. These scoot carbs are somewhat antiquated.
Air in the bowl can escape through several places into the carb and then into the atmosphere. Some of those places are covered with fuel during the filling process. There are two main final air vent points, into the airhorn, or out the vent port with the bent hose.
None of my fuel 'recycles' through external lines.
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