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Post by moofus02 on May 2, 2014 19:37:48 GMT -5
I think Ryan on here was using one looks like it. If it is he said it was accurate
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by Kick start on May 8, 2014 10:03:32 GMT -5
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Post by Kick start on May 8, 2014 10:10:48 GMT -5
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Post by Lucass2T on May 8, 2014 15:57:02 GMT -5
Seems to work fine...
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Post by Lucass2T on May 10, 2014 15:01:54 GMT -5
Found this on the ebay tacho's www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=28969As one can expect, they're pretty shitty and sometimes come broken even if they're brandnew. But this guy took one apart, checked it through completly, explained the workings and compared the readings to a Tiny Tach. Pretty interesting and handy for the ones considering to buy one! |
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Post by Lucass2T on May 15, 2014 12:10:21 GMT -5
Today been working a rev limiter to supress engine speed in case when i get pulled over by the cops.
Wired a 0,47uF capacitor between the ignition signal wire and ground. This should keep engine speeds down to about 7/8000 rpm (like a restricted cdi).
I wanted to use the stock cdi's built in restrictor, but i don't know how i can easily toggle it on/off with a switch or something. I guess my axis has the same wiring loom and engine hardware like the 1991-2000 Yamaha Jog. Maybe someone can enlighten me on this restrictor thing?
Anyway, they say the cdi will die if you use a capacitor restrictor (like i did make today) too often... How's that? Can someone confirm or explain?
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Post by craisin on May 15, 2014 17:06:31 GMT -5
well on my Keeway Flash 50 minarelli clone I replaced the 6 wire CDI with a 5 wire racing CDI. I was easy as the 6th wire that needed to be eliminated was the earth wire from wire pick-up so i just earth that wire and was pleased as it worked. Anyway i was watching a video on you tube about testing scooter electrics and the guy said he added an extra earth in case the original got disconected. And he said it twice  And i though i was dumb i could have left the stock CDI in and added an extra earth that i could switch off and on. It seems obvious to me that the CDI earths the pick-up and when the rev limit is reached the earthing of the pick-up gets cut. try it on a cheap CDI My Keeway has fuel system probs and it has bad gearing all the best PM me if you need to Nice Sleeper Nice intake wouldnt suit some of the roads i would go but you have the CR500 |
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Post by Lucass2T on Jun 2, 2014 5:46:14 GMT -5
Yesterday my small end bearing blew up...wrecked the head and piston but the barrel got away without any damage luckily. I will post some pics later. It was making a rattling noise lately, exactly the sound of a resonating heat shield from a car exhaust manifold. The rattling was from about 4000/5000 rpm up to  (top speed?). I was clearly audible when standing next to it and revving it when the clutch was still not engaged. Like in warming up period. Anyway, i though i would be something in the variator that's worn out or something (would be strange though becouse the variator and rollers don't even have 300 miles on them) or something hanging loose when it should be fixed or something...but okay...something insignificant at most. Nothing to really worry about. The whole engine was basicly new with all new internals, healty running engine completly blueprinted, balanced and clearances checked. Yesterday i took it for a ride, after like 3/4km's and 20/30 seconds WOT i needed to slow down for a corner. When i wanted to accelerate from the corner i just lost like 50% power. When i stopped the engine stalled and i could'nt get it started after that. No compression on the kickstarter. At home took the head off, i expected a soft seize or some piston problem like a hole in the crown (i run a 0,6mm squish on 95 octane pumpgas, so pre detonation was already looking around the corner) or broken pistonring or somthing. But the small-end bearing was in peaces. There was no (blueish) discoloration on the small end, wristpin or small-end bearing itself. No seize marks on the piston or cylinder. No greyish ash or 'death ash' inside or on top of the piston due to pre detonation. The motor wasn't running lean. Used the highest spec full synth oil and everything was still nice and greasy inside... Maybe the engine was running only a little little little tiny bit hot becouse of the cvt cooling i routed from the cooling cover to the cvt cover. But i think i would have noticed before becouse i ran WOT for 20/30 seconds multiple times before. |
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Post by moofus02 on Jun 2, 2014 10:02:39 GMT -5
Sorry to here of the failed bearing. Did a quick look and it looks like you had all the right stuff and did it right. Sometimes crap happens but I hope someone else can give a clue as to why it might have failed. Bad bearing from factory? Did it hurt the small end of the rod when it came apart? When I looked to see what your build was I saw you had an oversized rear pulley. I would like to know more about that when you get a chance
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by moofus02 on Jun 2, 2014 10:06:24 GMT -5
I would think if it was a heat thing with an aluminum kit you would have seen signs Detonation sagging piston crown etc. Inspect the underside of the piston crown for black burned oil
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by 2strokd on Jun 2, 2014 10:14:35 GMT -5
Ide categorize this in the "shit happens" field and keep on keepin on Maybe add a bit of squish next go around? The head looks good though right? No signs of contact? Sometimes parts just fail for no apparent reason. |
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Post by Lucass2T on Jun 2, 2014 17:56:14 GMT -5
Sorry to here of the failed bearing. Did a quick look and it looks like you had all the right stuff and did it right. Sometimes crap happens but I hope someone else can give a clue as to why it might have failed. Bad bearing from factory? Did it hurt the small end of the rod when it came apart? When I looked to see what your build was I saw you had an oversized rear pulley. I would like to know more about that when you get a chance Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards It's a TRD (twins racing devision) overrange pulley ( www.twinsscooterservice.nl/ ) Twins racing is really famous national racing scooter engine builder, they are really highly recommended here. About the pulley, it's a brandless pulley sold under the TRD name. But i think it's actually exactly the same as the Top performances 122mm overrange pulley and thus coming from the same factory. motorparts.it/en/?id=54&category=TORQUE%20CONVERTER§ion=50cc%20SCOOTER%20TORQUE%20CONVERTER#9923030It's a 122mm diam. pulley with straight splines. It fits in the cases without needing to grind or cut away anything. I think the athena belt works best with this pulley since it's 7mm's longer than a stock shortcase belt. I have the stage 6 pro belt, when that's worn i'm gonna try the athena belt. |
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Post by Lucass2T on Jun 22, 2014 8:16:52 GMT -5
    There are a lot of questions going through my mind how prevent this in the future. Is a 10-pin small-end just not up this kind of power? Do i need a 12-pin small-end? Was it pre-detonation that killed the engine? Are the Doppler small-end bearings just of inferior quality? How likely is the small-end damaged and i need to replace the conrod? |
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Post by moofus02 on Jun 22, 2014 8:22:56 GMT -5
Ouch that sucks
Sent from my SPH-L720 using proboards
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Post by 2TDave on Jun 22, 2014 8:45:00 GMT -5
By the pitting on the head and piston it looks like detonation. I'm no expert though so wait on one of the gurus. That hurts! Hope you get it sorted out.
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(top speed?). I was clearly audible when standing next to it and revving it when the clutch was still not engaged. Like in warming up period.
