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Post by Sitticuss on Feb 7, 2015 21:42:50 GMT -5
what # needle you using? Looking good
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 7, 2015 22:12:28 GMT -5
W7, 3rd notch from bottom.
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Post by 2strokd on Feb 8, 2015 18:24:19 GMT -5
lol cool!
I cannot believe you didnt have that on the whole time over the other one.? Those are great lil boxes IMO.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 8, 2015 19:01:07 GMT -5
lol cool! I cannot believe you didnt have that on the whole time over the other one.? Those are great lil boxes IMO. I put all those extra vents in it and still had to leave one out so it would get enough air to work with the same jetting as the lawnmower filter.
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Post by Corrosion on Feb 8, 2015 19:08:30 GMT -5
OG send me a link to the KART Air Box's I likey
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 8, 2015 19:23:15 GMT -5
I have a couple things that are puzzling me on this build. I am close to having the jetting right I think, but when I am at WOT and I pull the choke I don't hear much difference, and I don't speed up or slow down that I can tell. I have a 50 choke jet installed. I would think it would make some noticeable difference when I pull the choke at WOT?
I also wonder how much speed you can get out of the CVT on a build like this without going to an over range setup? I seem to be hitting a wall at 57 mph no matter what I do, in fact the best speed today was 55 mph, I think partly due to jetting.
I broke all the variator slides the other day on a short test run because I forgot to check the max opening. I have no problem getting full travel from the variator pulley, but I guess I am just expecting too much from the stock rear pulley, or I am just not getting it setup right. Are any of the outer replacement sheaves going to help me with the top end? Or should I just try to mod the stock pulley for more travel?
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Post by 2strokd on Feb 9, 2015 11:03:36 GMT -5
lol cool! I cannot believe you didnt have that on the whole time over the other one.? Those are great lil boxes IMO. I put all those extra vents in it and still had to leave one out so it would get enough air to work with the same jetting as the lawnmower filter. Its because you need to down jet and plug some holes lol. No way you need that much air or fuel for your set-up. but if you like the sound of an extra exhaust on the intake side and using more fuel go for it. I bet if you went down 5 or more jet sizes on the main and a few on the pilot you could plug allot of those hole and find the scooter more tuneable and even more powerful. Gonna need a needle move or even a change as well but worth it IMO. I cant help much on the CVT side sorry.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 9, 2015 11:34:27 GMT -5
I put all those extra vents in it and still had to leave one out so it would get enough air to work with the same jetting as the lawnmower filter. Its because you need to down jet and plug some holes lol. No way you need that much air or fuel for your set-up. but if you like the sound of an extra exhaust on the intake side and using more fuel go for it. I bet if you went down 5 or more jet sizes on the main and a few on the pilot you could plug allot of those hole and find the scooter more tuneable and even more powerful. Gonna need a needle move or even a change as well but worth it IMO. I cant help much on the CVT side sorry. Really? Cause I sure don't know what I am doing. Lol! I am currently using a 21mm Dellorto, with a 40 pj and a 92 mj. I am going to put the 19mm Dell clone on since the intake diameter is barely 19 mm anyway. I will also plug up some of the holes in the airbox. I will drop jet sizes to about a 38 pj and a 87 mj but I am scared to. LoL! I do have a habit of running things pig rich. Also would a w16 needle be better than the w7? any slide # recommendations?
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Post by 2strokd on Feb 9, 2015 11:52:04 GMT -5
Size only matters if everything is matched well. I myself am guilty of currently using a 21mm carb on a OEM bottleneck intake of maybe 18mm . I like your idea of going to the best match! If you hog that intake out to 21mm then hey, ya know I think if you get it tuned with about three of those holes plugged in your kartbox you will gain power and get better milelage, and with a smaller carb Running rich is good. Thats the way to start your tune then work down from there.. Lol, if we all started our tunes lean we wouldnt make it to our speed tests thats for sure! You may even need to go down more though.. Its a common mistake that hearing your air intake make a "brrraaaaahhhppbb" sound while under accel means more power. NOPE! Not saying your going for this, its just a common mistake i see allot in 2T tuning. Even in the fours.. My DD is a low revving heavy scooter that tops 60MPH without ever passing 10,000RPM. Its all about matching the set-up well and tuning it well for what you need. The W16 is going to be a leaner needle that is shorter overall than the W7 if i remember correct. Ide start with it to be safe.. Just remember not to change too much at once on a carb setup or you might have to start back at square one when you dont know what change out of the thee you made between runs screwed you the most. i1163.photobucket.com/albums/q545/Spudgun60/Dellorto_Needles_zps6369abba.jpg
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Post by 2strokd on Feb 9, 2015 11:54:47 GMT -5
Ive found most all my street tunes with Dello,s end up being W6 with more of an open filter and W7 for set-ups using more of an OEM style air inlet, or non noisy lol.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 9, 2015 12:05:11 GMT -5
Thanks sooo much for this help Robert!
Sent from my SGH-T999 using proboards
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 9, 2015 16:16:13 GMT -5
Following 2strokd's advice on jetting, I set up the 19mm Dell clone and put it on the scoot. I also plugged 3 of the vents I made in the kartbox filter with some gasket material. I fired it up, adjusted the mixture and idle then went for a test run. I got about 25 feet and it cut off and refused to start. I finally got it started but it would barely idle even with the throttle held wide open. WTH! I put the scoot back on the lift, pulled the airbox off, and finally found the problem. A small blue sponge from one of the blue pop in vents was wedged in the slide area! I guess the extra velocity caused it to come out of place. I decided to scrap the kartbox filter and put on a nice, predictable stock airbox It is only for temporary, until I get an Doppler alien eye filter ordered. I rode it and tuned it a bit, I am 3 1/2 turns out on the mixture screw and I think it is still slightly lean at idle because it will eventually die out unless I give it gas, so I need to go up a size on the pilot. The main jet is pretty good I think, but I will have to do a plug check before I can tell for sure. I am not going to spend any more time on tuning until I get the new filter installed. I am SLOWLY learning this stuff, I feel like such a noob most of the time!
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 9, 2015 16:32:04 GMT -5
I'd make sure the stock rear pulley was capable of opening all the way by checking the TD grooves and verifying there's nothing hitting when it tries to open after. I've had good luck with the stock dual angle TDs in many cases and can generally match what the straight groove does at least. Hard to beat the straight groove stuff for keeping RPM steady though. Getting a big rear pulley won't do anything for your speed unless you are using a front pulley that is larger and needs a longer belt. Even then it shouldn't change your top speed, just lets you run the long belt without a bunch of slack at low speed for a stronger takeoff.
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Post by 190mech on Feb 9, 2015 20:30:40 GMT -5
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 9, 2015 21:08:39 GMT -5
There is not enough room to do it quite like yours due to the shock being in the way. But that gives me an idea There is a little room where the oil tank was, and there is loads of room in the seat bucket next to the battery. I saw a thread somewhere where a guy built an airbox for a project scoot. It had lots of volume if I remember correctly, and was designed for performance. How would I go about calculating and designing a airbox? I cant seem to find anything on the web searching the subject.
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