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Post by Sitticuss on Jan 27, 2015 17:47:23 GMT -5
same here
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Post by Corrosion on Jan 27, 2015 17:55:41 GMT -5
Fuse type's with 480v ac, oh yes. The type of fuse matters. DC not so much, more just current limiting.
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 27, 2015 21:51:22 GMT -5
Played with jetting a while, but it is too cold to ride and test it much. I also put one of the orange lawnmower air filters on. It looks like it will work well with this rear facing carb setup.
I pulled the CVT cover off to make some marks on the variator, and change slider weight. I had 6x6=36 gram sliders in the Hoca variator, and I changed them to 3x5 and 3x6=33. I dont have a tach on this one, but I think I am around 8K. I dont even know what Rpms I should try for in a build like this.
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Post by 190mech on Jan 28, 2015 6:32:03 GMT -5
10,500 is about all you'll get because of the poor port layout of the 90+ stuff...
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 28, 2015 6:43:07 GMT -5
10,500 is about all you'll get because of the poor port layout of the 90+ stuff... Thanks! I will add that to my notes. |
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 31, 2015 17:22:33 GMT -5
Box of parts arrived, lock set, belly pan, left side panel, but I ordered the right side!  I talked to the place about it on the phone and they will send the correct one for me. Also sending me a front caliper for $23 which I think is a good deal, as long as it fits! I found out Friday just how bad I need the front brakes on this thing. Just after I had a Camaro try to merge into me, (I know he saw me) I zoned out for just a split second and did not have quite enough room to stop at a red light, had to pull between a flatbed construction truck, and a new Corvette to get it stopped. Just 3 or 4 feet...Sorry! Carb tuning is coming right along. I need to order a 40 slide to replace the 50 slide, I believe it is just a bit lean between 1/8 and 1/2 throttle. It sort of makes a thumping sound on deceleration in that throttle range. Thanks to corrosion for setting me straight on function of the slide numbers again, I cant seem to remember smaller is richer for the slide. I am finally going to break down and order a temp gage. I would hate to screw this build up now. I would like the kind that screws into a hole you drill in the cooling fins of head, instead of the one that goes under the plug. Links anybody? |
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Post by Corrosion on Jan 31, 2015 18:45:57 GMT -5
You need to be careful on using that sensor on Air Cooled. There designed for liquid cooled and the temp range on some of them is lower on LC.
Forgot to pump the pads out once did a renditions of the FlintStones at the end of my driveway! Yaba Daba Do
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 31, 2015 22:24:15 GMT -5
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Post by oldgeek on Jan 31, 2015 22:40:18 GMT -5
What are considered safe temps anyway? absolute limits?
I am thinking of making a temperature gauge at some point.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 31, 2015 22:43:44 GMT -5
It would be good for a gauge to go to 400 at least, but most of my stuff stops at around 330-350 when it's in tune on the AutoMeter. (I know I just said it goes to 340, but the needle will keep moving.)
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Post by niz76 on Jan 31, 2015 23:15:19 GMT -5
When I was having overheating issues, most problems started to show themselves at 400 degrees. Spark knock, detonation, run on after ignition switched off etc. I've been walking a tightrope between maximum compression I can get and overheating. All seems well at 375 and below like 90GTVert mentioned.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 1, 2015 7:15:37 GMT -5
It would be good for a gauge to go to 400 at least, but most of my stuff stops at around 330-350 when it's in tune on the AutoMeter. (I know I just said it goes to 340, but the needle will keep moving.) When I was having overheating issues, most problems started to show themselves at 400 degrees. Spark knock, detonation, run on after ignition switched off etc. I've been walking a tightrope between maximum compression I can get and overheating. All seems well at 375 and below like 90GTVert mentioned. Thanks, So are the temps roughly the same for all displacements? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 1, 2015 9:11:51 GMT -5
From what I've seen, in a similar state of tune they seem to run at similar temps provided there's enough airflow (90cc fan).
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Post by Corrosion on Feb 1, 2015 10:18:28 GMT -5
A lot depends on piston type & composition. A mildly tight Vertex piston @ 375 is not mildly tight any more. Ask any body who has had experience with the S-6 Street Race.
I can personally attest to the soft seizing & four cornering at 375. Particularly upon break-in with a fresh hone. And brand new spanky tight rings.
Now those same temps after break in, no problem. I guess what I'm trying to say is there are variables to be taken into account on the "High Temperature" number.
FYI: The Sender was the LC sender on a Stage 6 Temp / Tachometer gauge. It uses Koso sensors.
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Post by oldgeek on Feb 1, 2015 21:29:45 GMT -5
Good points you bring up.
I have had an idea about using cheap blue-tooth modules to measure temp, rpm, speed, and whatever. Should be able to send real time data to an app on a smart phone for display, sort of like a configurable digital dash.
So far I have not found a module that will do just what I am looking for, there are many different types of modules out there though, it will just take some time.
I put the new lock-set on, and the belly pan earlier today, then I had some fun doing some tuning runs!
The torque is addictive on these 90+cc, I like being able to lift the front tire off the ground almost at will! Feels controllable, so I am getting brave with it around the warehouse. I feel like the front lifts way up, but in reality it is likely only coming up 6" - 10" Fun Stuff!
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