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Post by tossone on Jun 20, 2014 22:42:02 GMT -5
I have a 2013 Tao Tao with 100cc big bore kit, mikuni fuel pump, 26mm Hoca carburetor and intake manifold 103 main jet, Naraku transmission kit 1500 rpm springs and 5 gram sliders, iridium spark plug, performance cdi and coil, performance exhaust. My problem is when I ease into throttle it revs up fine but if I do it quickly, the engine stalls. I checked the valve clearances and thats .004" and the carb, plug and fuel pump is new. The spark plug is a dry black when I pulled it. My air fuel screw is 2 and a half out and it idles fine. I tried taking the air filter off but it still dies WOT. It also takes a quarter throttle or more to get it to move.
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Post by scooterpimp on Jun 20, 2014 23:11:11 GMT -5
We got quite a bit of carburetor / fuel pump / jetting going on there dont we? Not a little on the overkill in the fuel department? Black plug = rich.... unless ignition is failing? Just trying to toss some ideas out there.
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Post by oldsman on Jun 20, 2014 23:14:37 GMT -5
I would say with a carb that size and jetting you are too rich. Swap with a smaller carb with 95jet. I haven't had good luck with larger carbs.
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Post by Upgrayedd on Jun 20, 2014 23:15:46 GMT -5
thats a big carb. the air has a lot less velocity coming through that vs a smaller diameter carb, i wonder if that is contributing to your issue.
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Post by tossone on Jun 21, 2014 0:12:58 GMT -5
I had a 18mm stock and put a 85 jet in it and still had the same problem. I didn't drill out the air fuel plug to adjust it at the time. When I drove, it would stop and then kick like it was changing gears then take off again. I figured that if it's getting to much gas, then even when I throttled it up slowly, it would flood out. I will try moving the needle clip all the way down and see. It was on half way and doing the same thing so I moved it up. I will try moving it down. If that doesn't work, I'll put my 85 jet in this carb and see. I have a big bore so I don't want to go lower and I heard many people have success even up to 105. Could it be a compression problem?
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nightriderrv
Scoot Enthusiast
Never Give Up- Ride all the time !!!!!
Posts: 177
Location: Western mountains Nebo NC
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Post by nightriderrv on Jun 23, 2014 23:49:50 GMT -5
I'm running a 24mm carb with a 105 jet
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Post by iwiketuddlz on Jul 1, 2014 6:46:57 GMT -5
Sounds like your out of timing a notch or two,how freesh is the bbk?
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Post by tossone on Jul 1, 2014 14:27:25 GMT -5
The bbk doesn't have very many miles on it since it hasn't run right after I put it in. My initial problem was solved by just letting it warm up plus I had a little more oil in it than needed. I got a rpm gauge and set the idle at 1500 then turn my air fuel screw all the way out until it started to stall, then back in a half turn until the rpms were stable at 1500. I go wot and it revs right up. However when I got on the scooter, it would barley move and just stalled out and was hard to start until I let it sit for a little while. When I did the new transmission and put on the torque sleeve, I had a problem putting the belt on because I couldn't pry apart the bell. It's the part that you put your clutch and spring on and opens up so the belt grabs on. It wasn't that hard with the stock clutch, spring and torque converter, but like I said, when I put the Naraku stuff in, I had a hell of time opening the bell up enough to let the belt fall in order to install it. My valves still tick more than I like but they are set at about .002". I haven't check the plug yet. I am not sure what to do first but I will take the transmission cover off and start it to see if the belt is grabbing or sticking and that my variator sliders are in correctly. Would timing cause it to run fine until you actually get on it to ride then fail? When my cam is at top dead center, both valves are completely up. I got the stock air filter on but if it was starving, it wouldn't rev up right? I don't want to give up but I am about to put the stock stuff back in just so I can ride it.
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Post by tossone on Jul 1, 2014 14:36:04 GMT -5
I also had my battery die then recharged it. When I go to start it, it hesitates then fires up. I don't want to buy a new one unless I have to but does anyone know it that could be why it barely moves and stalls when under load and not when just sitting?
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Post by tossone on Jul 1, 2014 14:42:04 GMT -5
Sorry the part I mean was that the pulley was very tight and hard to pull apart.
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Post by tossone on Jul 1, 2014 14:53:29 GMT -5
I also have one more question. Does it matter that the fuel pump is pulsed or not?
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Post by tossone on Jul 1, 2014 15:13:49 GMT -5
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Post by oldsman on Jul 2, 2014 0:04:29 GMT -5
The exhaust is fine. I use that exact one on many of my builds. You said your valves are at .002. That is too tight. Should be .003-.004. To tight of valves will cause hard starting and stalling, the same symptoms you are having.
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rexxk
Scoot Member
Posts: 65
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Post by rexxk on Jul 2, 2014 3:16:50 GMT -5
what pilot jet have you got it it? tried adjuting the a/f mixture screw? raise your idle after the bikes been rode around on for about 10 minutes. raise idle with ethe idle adjustment screw. step 1. warm up the bike,. 10 minutes riding. so the auto choke is off and the bieks up to operating temperature. step 2. raise idle slightly to a highish, kind of idle. step 3. turn your mixture screw, in and out. until it reaches the maximum rpms it will go at. (forgot something see notes at end*) step 3a. if it starts racing, the idle increases too much, lower it. you can use the idle mix screw to actually reach another circuit and you dont want to be there tuning the idle mixture adjustment and stuff. step 4. lower idle back down to stock idle rpms. with idle rpm screw. and after sitting on it, turn screw in or out to fine tune as you hit the gas. for best running and response.
*first before you start check see how many turns in or out the screw is to start with, by turning it in, until it seats, dont screw in hard, and count it. remember that number in case stuff gets worse.
also, when your through and got it set. check see how many turns out or in it is. if its under like 1 1/4 or out more than like 3 1/2, or 3 3/4 you need to either, upjet the pilot jet or down jet. depending on what screw carb you have. if its air or fuel. more than likely if its a 35 pilot jet and its off on one side, you need to upjet. to a 38 pilot jet.
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Post by tossone on Jul 2, 2014 16:27:49 GMT -5
The problem I am having now is that when I get on the scooter and throttle, it barely moves then stalls. The a/f screw is set at about 3 1/4 and idles after warm up at 1500 rpms. I took the transmission cover off and the belt was in the pulley. I tried to separate the pulley to get the belt out but it wont budge. The whole transmission is brand new and is all Naraku V2. I am also using stock fuel lines which may be too small. I have a question. I see that a lot of people use uni filter types. If I put one on, what do I do with the hose that goes from the valve cover to the stock filter? I will get a air compressor and take apart my trans again but right now, I will down jet the main jet to 88 and see what that does. Thanks to all.
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