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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 10, 2014 11:02:55 GMT -5
Unless ur cdi is restricted dont bother. Most are just fancy plastic. 33 sounds pretty slow if it was winding out. Does it have a restrictor washer or anything? And if your clutch is good lengthen the channels the alignment pins are on so it can open all the way. 90gt has a good write up on it I believe. It gets better belt travel and allowed me to squeeze 3 more mph out of my stock variator to get 55 out it. This thing still has the stock CDI. I don't think I've ever seen above 8,500 RPM. Maybe less, I don't know now that I think about it. It's never climbed to 9k or above. No, the drive boss on it has no restriction. Though I think the one with the Hoca I just got is a tad shorter, maybe 1mm or so. I haven't had time to really do side by sides of them. This weekend I will get to putting the new VARI on. I'm going to tune the carb first back to a safe position, then make a test run. Then I'll put the Vari on with the stock (4g) weights it came with, then move up in weight from there. I have 5g and 6g rollers I ordered with it so I'd like to see what differences they make. If I have time, I'll swap the clutch springs and then I'll check the channels on the pulley. I've seen his vid on cleaning and inspecting it so I should be good. I just need to find an impact and see if I have the socket for it.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 10, 2014 11:04:54 GMT -5
Also from what I hear the 99$ eBay special is a good jump up from stock all around. Buy it lol. I almost did but got a zx-r for like 50 bux more so I jumped on it. Keep checking eBay though sometimes people have a used pipe for sale. Well I'm looking at Scooter Tunning CA right now and I'm looking at $180 all in for the Technigas Next-R. Can you give me a link to what you're talking about? I have two pipes from ebay on my list, one red one blue (I wanted to keep my color options open I guess haha) But if you know for sure then shoot. Remember, I'm running a 1PE40QMB motor on a big frame Baccio (Vento Triton or Lancer 150 is also what this style is called).
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 10, 2014 12:40:09 GMT -5
www.scrappydogscooters.com/site/d4faf33a669343abab34a17e8762cbe3/50cc-2stroke-performance?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scrappydogscooters.com%2F50cc_2stroke_Performance.html#2887 it will look the same as this one part way down the page. It seems as the price went up on the exhaust though :/ id get the real exhaust at this point. I'm sure the extra umph will be worth it. And I wouldn't be surprised if you can't rev to 10k with the stock exhaust it isn't even an expansion chamber. There's a catalytic converter in the fake expansion chamber that gets plugged easy. Can you rev to 10k on the center stand? If so yours isn't restricted. The shorter drive boss will improve top speed I may add. If your frame is the same as a Vento triton we pretty much have the same frame just diff plastics. My bike is one of the lightest large frame bikes though. 177 lbs complete I can load it into a truck on my own and it weighs more than me. If you mix the 4 and 5 gram rollers it should give you good accel and top end or maybe the 5 and 6 depending on how the ramps slope with your new variator. My bike liked around that with the stocker but would pull the 10g sliders so I used em to keep the rpms down. I really like the 7 and 10 gram slider mix with my over range though. Nothing beats cruising at 10% throttle doing 45 mph at 7800 rpms.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 10, 2014 12:53:58 GMT -5
www.scrappydogscooters.com/site/d4faf33a669343abab34a17e8762cbe3/50cc-2stroke-performance?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scrappydogscooters.com%2F50cc_2stroke_Performance.html#2887 it will look the same as this one part way down the page. It seems as the price went up on the exhaust though :/ id get the real exhaust at this point. I'm sure the extra umph will be worth it. And I wouldn't be surprised if you can't rev to 10k with the stock exhaust it isn't even an expansion chamber. There's a catalytic converter in the fake expansion chamber that gets plugged easy. Can you rev to 10k on the center stand? If so yours isn't restricted. The shorter drive boss will improve top speed I may add. If your frame is the same as a Vento triton we pretty much have the same frame just diff plastics. My bike is one of the lightest large frame bikes though. 177 lbs complete I can load it into a truck on my own and it weighs more than me. If you mix the 4 and 5 gram rollers it should give you good accel and top end or maybe the 5 and 6 depending on how the ramps slope with your new variator. My bike liked around that with the stocker but would pull the 10g sliders so I used em to keep the rpms down. I really like the 7 and 10 gram slider mix with my over range though. Nothing beats cruising at 10% throttle doing 45 mph at 7800 rpms. Here is my Baccio post so you can see exactly what I'm talking about. Oh and your link didn't work. I'm not sure what part I'll test first, BBK or Exhaust. I'll have to jack it up on the stand to see if it rev's that high, never tried it. I had other issues I needed to sort before I start revving it to high hell. But now that you're giving me some ideas, I know some new things to check out. I had the exhaust off at one point, took the pip and "muffler" apart and sprayed some brake cleaner through em to clean them a bit. It didn't seem too clogged, but the muffler had some weight to it. I may look to buy some heavier rollers, though I'm not sure if I should go sliders or rollers now. I have all rollers for now, so changing over to sliders would be buying all new sets. If I could get 48mph at 1/4 throttle, I'd probably cry from joy lol. PS. According to Baccio and anywhere else I've seen, the dry weight on the bike is around 230 lbs. I'm about 240lbs. So you see where my challenge is in getting the thing to go faster hah. I wish I could do it all at once and poof, but I have to be patient. I'm already looking to mod the new one, but that's down the road.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 10, 2014 13:02:51 GMT -5
I know that bike lol. My room mates dad has a 4 stroke pos like that. Its a sunl 150cc and it only does 65 but cruises at 60. Be glad yours is the 2t way better engine. They weigh it down with a slightly sturdier frame and all that plastic. I'd get the good Bbk broken in while u wait for the exhaust then put that on and give er hell. Your stock exhaust is a joke and prolly why it doesn't want to go or rev decent. Because yours doesn't have an expansion chamber it would be like ripping the camshaft out and pulling off all of your exhaust valves on your car. Good luck driving it lol. As for rollers or sliders. Find the weight roller you like and buy a slider set 1 gram heavier or same weight and a gram heavier so you have 2 sets to mix and match.
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Post by niz76 on Oct 10, 2014 13:07:14 GMT -5
Also from what I hear the 99$ eBay special is a good jump up from stock all around. Buy it lol. I almost did but got a zx-r for like 50 bux more so I jumped on it. Keep checking eBay though sometimes people have a used pipe for sale. I had that $99 ebay pipe. It is a good upgrade from stock, hit hard on my 50cc, but once I got my BBK it was kind of a let down. Stinger is a bit restrictive from what I understand. If I had to do it all over again I would've just saved my pennies longer for a good brand pipe.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 10, 2014 13:08:07 GMT -5
I know that bike lol. My room mates dad has a 4 stroke pos like that. Its a sunl 150cc and it only does 65 but cruises at 60. Be glad yours is the 2t way better engine. They weigh it down with a slightly sturdier frame and all that plastic. I'd get the good Bbk broken in while u wait for the exhaust then put that on and give er hell. Your stock exhaust is a joke and prolly why it doesn't want to go or rev decent. Because yours doesn't have an expansion chamber it would be like ripping the camshaft out and pulling off all of your exhaust valves on your car. Good luck driving it lol. As for rollers or sliders. Find the weight roller you like and buy a slider set 1 gram heavier or same weight and a gram heavier so you have 2 sets to mix and match. Yeah, it's funny that when I went looking around for parts for this thing, everywhere I saw it was a 150 4t motor in it. I kept thinking maybe I should just quietly dump one in, but everyone screamed no. Keep the 49cc 2t in it and upgrade that. I just ordered the Technigas Next-R pipe (and some gaskets...) The BBK is already marked as shipped and now I wait. As for the existing exhaust, yeah I don't doubt it's junk. I'm sure the BBK will still make a little difference with the stock exhaust so I'll be sure to run it a few hundred miles with it before I put the Next-R on it I guess. Ugh. I'm spending more than I wanted but sometimes I wish I could just take it somewhere and have it done lol. This is killing me! But I am sort of liking the tinkering with it myself. I'd love to actually take all the plastic off with the exception of the front because of the lights.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 10, 2014 14:10:08 GMT -5
Thats how I feel most days I love engines but I hate working on then when I have to just as a toy or project i can walk away from when it make me mad. Break your top end in on cheap 2t non synthetic oil then after the first 200 miles switch to Lucas semi synthetic oil from oriellys auto. Its treated me super good as you can see from the pictures. I dont joke when i say I drive it like I stole it. The video I posted is every time I take off. 2 stoke is more fun that 4 and the 150cc 4t is cheap honestly larger ones like 250cc and up are good though. I cant wait to piece together my 2 stoke engine I'm building it should be a blast and much quicker and faster than the video I posted. With these engines its not worth cheaping out I've noticed. I tried in the past but you truly get what you pay for. I think I spent over 600 bux to build this motor and its going to be worth every penny I can already tell from the top end I'm going to use.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 10, 2014 14:18:17 GMT -5
Thats how I feel most days I love engines but I hate working on then when I have to just as a toy or project i can walk away from when it make me mad. Break your top end in on cheap 2t non synthetic oil then after the first 200 miles switch to Lucas semi synthetic oil from oriellys auto. Its treated me super good as you can see from the pictures. I dont joke when i say I drive it like I stole it. The video I posted is every time I take off. 2 stoke is more fun that 4 and the 150cc 4t is cheap honestly larger ones like 250cc and up are good though. I cant wait to piece together my 2 stoke engine I'm building it should be a blast and much quicker and faster than the video I posted. With these engines its not worth cheaping out I've noticed. I tried in the past but you truly get what you pay for. I think I spent over 600 bux to build this motor and its going to be worth every penny I can already tell from the top end I'm going to use. I'm trying not to cheap out, hence why I ask what to buy and where. The BBK was way less than I thought so I'm hoping it holds up. If not, Doc owes me. I'm using this Walmart Quicksilver 2t oil and doing premix now. So I'll continue to burn it up till I put the new BBK in and break that in. Any idea on what temp plug I should run too? The thing I worry about the most is my crank holding up. I don't think there's reason to worry, but the unseen stuff always gets ya.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 10, 2014 14:39:48 GMT -5
Use the stock one and if its too hott use a colder plug. Pretty much everyone seems to use the stock one. Ik I did with all my top ends diff ones always made it run worse. Put a drop of blue loctite on each circlip when you put em in and it will hold up. And I know these people hate seeing me asking another question but id rather be safe than sorry. Plus I try and detail everything I can with my results because not many people seem to with these engines and people need to know. It makes it easier to answer the questions for future people looking for the same things. Just don't spin it over 10k supposedly some ppl claim 12k but no not gonna risk that without a better crank. I got 15k miles from a stock bottom end at 10k at least once a day. So there's that. I cruise at 9k and under most of the time tho. Good oil and don't overheat it you should be ok.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 10, 2014 17:09:55 GMT -5
Use the stock one and if its too hott use a colder plug. Pretty much everyone seems to use the stock one. Ik I did with all my top ends diff ones always made it run worse. Put a drop of blue loctite on each circlip when you put em in and it will hold up. And I know these people hate seeing me asking another question but id rather be safe than sorry. Plus I try and detail everything I can with my results because not many people seem to with these engines and people need to know. It makes it easier to answer the questions for future people looking for the same things. Just don't spin it over 10k supposedly some ppl claim 12k but no not gonna risk that without a better crank. I got 15k miles from a stock bottom end at 10k at least once a day. So there's that. I cruise at 9k and under most of the time tho. Good oil and don't overheat it you should be ok. Hah, there is no "stock" plug. Actually I have 3 plugs for it to chose from. I have in there now an NGK BPR7HS, I have a BPR6HS and BPR8HS as well to chose from. Loctite on what now? The circlip for the piston? So was it you that said aftermarket CDI is just fancy plastic? Is it worth buying a new CDI or how do I cut out the rev limit on the existing one? Some guy told me "Cut the pink wire." but he said that about my 4t. Not sure if it's the same for a 2t. Yeah, good oil and run it maybe a little rich and never lean. I've got the jet kit for my carb, no need to mess with it now with stock at least. I had an issue with the needle. The clip fell out of the needle and the needle was stuck, leaving me hanging a mile from the house. So when I did the carb cleaning, I moved the needle down one notch (thus moving the needle "up" and making it richer) Which hasn't seemed to hurt it up to the 3/4 throttle mark. I just am not getting much speed out of her right now. Hell, my new stock 4t M1 GPS'd at 38mph and I haven't touched a thing on it. Ugh. Now I have to tally up all the money I spent today into Quicken. I think I'm gonna throw up. lol
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 10, 2014 21:01:55 GMT -5
The br8hs is the stocker. It should say 4322 on the box thats the number I give them at the parts store they look at me crazy when I say the one with letters and number and can never find it. And yes loctite on the clip on each side of the piston. Just a drop does it most people say. The wire thing on the cdi I'm unsure of honestly everyone always says a diff color the only thing people say the same is its usually a loop out of the cdi and back into it. If the cdi is restricted it would be worth it but I've never had a bike with a rev limiter to tell you the truth. I got a cdi for my 4t once with a Bbk and it ran worse with it stock and with the big bore but in some cases it could maybe be helpful. What color is your plug? There is the possibility its jetted a hair lean stock. I've seen it before and so have alot of people. One jet size up can really wake a motor up it make it run pretty sickly.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 10, 2014 21:09:10 GMT -5
The br8hs is the stocker. It should say 4322 on the box thats the number I give them at the parts store they look at me crazy when I say the one with letters and number and can never find it. And yes loctite on the clip on each side of the piston. Just a drop does it most people say. The wire thing on the cdi I'm unsure of honestly everyone always says a diff color the only thing people say the same is its usually a loop out of the cdi and back into it. If the cdi is restricted it would be worth it but I've never had a bike with a rev limiter to tell you the truth. I got a cdi for my 4t once with a Bbk and it ran worse with it stock and with the big bore but in some cases it could maybe be helpful. What color is your plug? There is the possibility its jetted a hair lean stock. I've seen it before and so have alot of people. One jet size up can really wake a motor up it make it run pretty sickly. Well right now it has the BR7HS in it. The 8 I think is sitting in the bucket under the seat, I was trying different temp plugs when I was trying to figure out the noise issue I was having. Ah, loctite blue or red? I have blue around. All I know is it's the factory default CDI. Small black box. It's filthy so I know it's either pretty old or original. New CDI could be what, $20? Worth it or not, I'm not sure now. I still have to do the rev test on the stand I guess. Maybe tomorrow when I remove the vary. I know when I remove the plugs from it after running or whenever, it's usually black and sort of wet looking. I thought that meant rich. I'm not sure what jet is on there now. I can't find a damn lick of anything on the carb. It's a Mikuni, stock carb. I've thought about buying another but I can't get too crazy just yet. I should probably take some shots of it for reference tomorrow. It's not a big deal to take it off really.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Oct 10, 2014 22:31:08 GMT -5
Keep the Mikuni lol. They are top quality and a larger carb is useless unless you had like a 110cc race motor that spun 12k+ rpm. I wanna say a 17.5 is what the 50cc needs and 19mm is the size for around 70-90cc street motors to keep drivability. If your motor runs too hot with the big bore a larger carb could be a good thing but I doubt you'd need it from what I've heard and seen. You could try and maybe ask some of the other members their thoughts on the cdi but most people seem to say unless its restricted don't bother. Half the time when I looked for one before it was so much guess work and hassle I gave up after endless searching for the proper color coding and wire counts. The blue loctite is the one you want and a slightly darker than chocolate brown is what I always shoot for on the plug color. Wet is also a good thing better than dry atleast. You prolly have around a 70 main jet thats what both my mikunis had atleast.
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Post by jhobe6678 on Oct 11, 2014 4:32:24 GMT -5
Keep the Mikuni lol. They are top quality and a larger carb is useless unless you had like a 110cc race motor that spun 12k+ rpm. I wanna say a 17.5 is what the 50cc needs and 19mm is the size for around 70-90cc street motors to keep drivability. If your motor runs too hot with the big bore a larger carb could be a good thing but I doubt you'd need it from what I've heard and seen. You could try and maybe ask some of the other members their thoughts on the cdi but most people seem to say unless its restricted don't bother. Half the time when I looked for one before it was so much guess work and hassle I gave up after endless searching for the proper color coding and wire counts. The blue loctite is the one you want and a slightly darker than chocolate brown is what I always shoot for on the plug color. Wet is also a good thing better than dry atleast. You prolly have around a 70 main jet thats what both my mikunis had atleast. I agree, a wet plug is safer than a hot dry plug. I know it runs pretty cool now because after driving, I can still grab the plug wire and the air coming from the shroud isn't really hot at all. I want to pull the main jet from it now and just slap in a 75 and see what happens. Maybe later today. It's kind of a PITA the way the carb is mounted, I have to almost completely remove it to take off the bowl, but it's not impossible to do it with it mostly on so it's not that bad. I also was thinking of putting some kind of ball valve inline of the air intake to see if I can control the air intake better. But for now I won't mess with that. It still has the stock box and only one hole coming from the bottom. I've been thinking of drilling that out a little larger.
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