|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 6, 2014 16:34:06 GMT -5
Almost forgot, don't run the lights off of DC power unless you don't mind the possibility of losing lights on a long run or having no juice to e-start. You'd have to charge the battery after every ride. They just don't put out enough on the charging side to sustain the headlights with the normal loads. I haven't used any really heavy draw items on my 2Ts on the DC side, but I've done it on a 4T that has a fairly similar system and it can only support maybe up to 30W max without too much trouble. I was using grip heaters that draw 36W on max and it would suck the DC side down to 10V or so before long. I tried checking a Triton's stock charging a while back and got something like 20W of spare juice. Not sure my numbers were right though. If it's anywhere near correct you can't support a proper headlight without issues anyway.
|
|
|
Post by nickwi on Aug 6, 2014 19:06:15 GMT -5
Brent, Thanks for the help! A few things, just had time to putz again. Dave, you were spot on with saying the key would no longer kill the engine after disconnecting the security system. I took it totally off. Now I'm going to try Brent's post on the Dk green and Lt green wires in that bundle to see if jumping them retains the key switch killing the engine again.
Brent, I did more bulb checking. We had changed the rear signal lights to LED last year. They worked great and still light together when I turn on the signal switch. Both front signal bulbs were fried as was the brake/tail light. Now I'm going to check the voltage at the headlight as you suggested to see what my rectifier/regulator is putting out.
Thanks for the help on this crazy puzzle guys! I'll keep after it. Nick the scooter noob
|
|
|
Post by nickwi on Aug 6, 2014 19:07:11 GMT -5
PS Glad I read your reply on wiring DC to lights Brent, I had just been to Fleet Farm bought wiring and toggle switch to change it over. Haven't cut anything yet
|
|
|
Post by Majestic on Aug 7, 2014 8:48:48 GMT -5
Ya gotta love Mills Fleet Farm
|
|
|
Post by nickwi on Aug 7, 2014 10:15:35 GMT -5
Brent the green wire splice worked great on the alarm system removal. Dave you have to try it, slick and easy. Key works as it should now to turn off engine.
I tried checking the headlight voltage yesterday while running. Weird things happened. At first I was getting 3v at the headlight wiring while revving the engine. As I tested the tail light got brighter and dimmer. I still have about 15v at the battery posts while running and revving. Does that seem too high?
I was looking on Ebay this morning for regulators, saw them from $6 all the way to $50. How can I hope to find a good one from a reputable source ? Wow!
I'm going on a parts run today for bulbs, will swing into a motorcycle repair shop to see what they have for rectifiers.
Still trying to figure this out!
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 7, 2014 10:51:25 GMT -5
I've never spent $50 on a rectifier/regulator for these. Should not be necessary. PFS has one for $10 (Part#159-43) and I'm sure Scrappy has them and SPE has them for $12 shipped on eBay. I'd go with one of those and then check voltage at the batt after to make sure it's charging. If not, check out the link I posted earlier about rectifier/regulator wiring. 15V at the batt is fine. Is 3V should make the lights really dim. You said the tail changes intensity though, so I'm guessing your voltage is surging. You can check service manuals for specs on the stator or try probing the stator to see what ACV comes out of it, but unless it's erratic it may be kinda hard to tell if it's alright that way. I suspect it's the regulator.
|
|
|
Post by nickwi on Aug 7, 2014 14:04:39 GMT -5
Found a couple Youtube videos on checking regulators and rectifiers. Checked mine out, it's toast. Got one ordered.
|
|
|
Post by 2TDave on Aug 7, 2014 14:58:43 GMT -5
Good deal!
|
|
|
Post by nickwi on Aug 9, 2014 18:16:32 GMT -5
I've never spent $50 on a rectifier/regulator for these. Should not be necessary. Parts For Scooters has one for $10 (Part#159-43) and I'm sure Scrappy has them and SPE has them for $12 shipped on eBay. I'd go with one of those and then check voltage at the batt after to make sure it's charging. If not, check out the link I posted earlier about rectifier/regulator wiring. 15V at the batt is fine. Is 3V should make the lights really dim. You said the tail changes intensity though, so I'm guessing your voltage is surging. You can check service manuals for specs on the stator or try probing the stator to see what ACV comes out of it, but unless it's erratic it may be kinda hard to tell if it's alright that way. I suspect it's the regulator. Brent, Got my new regulator in the mail today. Plugged it in and checked voltage at the battery. Not charging the battery at all. No power to headlights, headlight switch is on. I do have power to the little white running light in the front when I switch on my headlights but not to the main headlight. I also have rear lights, get very bright when I run the scooter. I'm guessing I'll have to try the rewire link you posted to get battery charging, the regulator did feel slightly warm after I was running the scooter checking things over. I'm wondering if I have to suspect my headlight switch now? Besides the not charging problem? Man, this thing is getting frustrating! Or should I rewire the regulator like in your link and then see if I have lights and charging.
|
|
|
Post by nickwi on Aug 10, 2014 16:09:44 GMT -5
Guys, I followed your leads and switched the green/red and red wires on my new regulator/rectifier as Brent did in his post. Didn't work at all before I did that. I did some other checking as well. When running, my stator is putting out 21volts AC at idle on the white wire, and 18 volts AC on the green/red. When revving the motor, both are around 45volts AC.
At the battery its showing 14-15.8 volts charging when revved, about 13.8 idling.
I think these readings seem ok??
I found a broken wire going to the the headlights. With the new reg/rect installed, I'm getting 12-14 volts AC at the headlight socket on both low and high beam.
So far so good I think, waiting for my replacemnt headlight bulbs and signal light flasher. Both got cooked.
Thanks again for your help, please advise if these voltage numbers seem off. Nick
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Aug 12, 2014 11:57:51 GMT -5
Sound like the readings are alright. I'd assume it's fixed unless you start having more problems.
|
|