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Post by chehystpewpur on Jan 5, 2015 21:40:52 GMT -5
Ok so I'm sure some of yall are sick of hearing from me by now but. This time I'm not asking a question. drive.google.com/folderview?id=0By2rcNqfITkKeEpfTXhvZnZKXzQ&usp=sharingThis is a prototype coil on plug setup that actually works. Its since the pictures been wired up and secured for the time being. I'm using a Chrysler coil on plug from a jeep something or other v6. I'm going to order off eBay a ford coil with the flexible boot so I dont have to worry about anything breaking when it gets old and it will be a million times easier to put on and remove. I'm going to make a bracket to mount it on the frame or atleast use a hook type thing to basically pop it on and off but keep it snug against the spark plug. Initial impressions are good it accelerates alot smoother and noticeably quicker. Cruising speed went from 55 up to 57 and I topped out at 61 instead of 60 and its even windy out. It even got rid of almost all of my sputter at low rpms. Wiring was simple and it pretty much just popped on there. Deff worth the 20-30 mins to pull everything apart and switch to if you have a spare coil laying around or can source one for cheap.
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Post by iwiketuddlz on Jan 6, 2015 18:57:36 GMT -5
Dude I like it!! Very nice how much...I vant vuone..
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Post by chehystpewpur on Jan 6, 2015 21:46:37 GMT -5
I paid zero dollars but I ordered the mercury mountaineer one for 7 bux on eBay. Its basically the same as all ford v8 coils it has a soft rubber boot that can be bent all over the place. To top it off parts stores sell the coil boots for cheap and it comes with a new spring usually so you can get shorter or longer ones straight ones and bent ones. Mine has a slight bend which will work perfect for mounting it and when I hit huge bumps it will only bend to straight on the boot and put no strain on the spark plug or anything. I should get it in a few days and ill post more pictures and a better detailed write up even though its super simple. You truly only need the plug for the coil and about 8" of wire with the plug if you can peel a harness back far enough. If not its not hard to extend the wires. 2 blade terminals to plug into the factory coil harness. It starts and runs no matter which way the wires are put on but one way has the amount of sputter my bike had stock and the other way got rid of pretty much all the sputter. This is the coil I bought. m.ebay.com/itm/171362259920?txnId=1326993122007
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Post by birdman on Jan 7, 2015 12:26:58 GMT -5
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Post by birdman on Jan 7, 2015 12:30:44 GMT -5
It seems like an easy job.. Compared to going COP on my Accord's F series nitrous motor.. May be worth the money on the aggresive street, to mid, to full race setups.
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Post by Jwhood on Jan 7, 2015 16:05:01 GMT -5
Damn i have like 3 motorcraft coils laying around,thats a good idea,will it hurt the stator in any way,or will it put less strain on the scooters electronics??
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Post by birdman on Jan 7, 2015 17:39:46 GMT -5
It eliminates the need for sparkplug wire and cap and gives you more direct and consitant spark. The main reason why I did it to my car was to switch from a distributor controlled ignition to computer controlled, for ease of tuning.. I think if your still using the stator, you are only getting half of the benefit of switching to COP. Add an ignition control module to the scooters COP so we can do all sorts of crazy stuff with our timing.. Then I think we may be able to get reliable 18psi of boost on a GY6 150
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Post by Clank on Jan 8, 2015 10:54:08 GMT -5
First off, nobody ever gets tired of hearing good news. Second that's friggin awesome and third,could you please post a schematic for dumb dumb's like me?
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Post by chehystpewpur on Jan 8, 2015 19:21:34 GMT -5
drive.google.com/folderview?id=0By2rcNqfITkKTkg1TDIzS3cxNjA&usp=sharingOk I got my new coil today and as you can see this is going to work perfect. Solid mount to the frame and the boot will bend and flex as the suspension loads going down the road. Tomorrow ill have plug that goes into the coil and I will do a more detailed write up for all of you. I didn't realize it would be here today so I didn't grab one from work before I left. Anybody looking to do this make sure you use the flexible boot one and you could mount it just about anywhere you want to. And I've seen those ncy coils before and almost bought one but 7 dollars sounded a whole lot better to me. Also those are a solid boot if I'm not mistaken and could break alot easier if they banged against anything. But either coil that is used find a junk coil for you bike or salvage from your stock one the boot that seals against the engine shroud. If not you'll have an air leak from the fan and temps will rise. I gained about 20 degrees running for a day without it.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Jan 9, 2015 22:30:05 GMT -5
Ok here's the new round of pictures with it installed safely for now. I need to get something else for the mounting bracket but this works pretty well for now and I might just say screw it and leave it depending on how lazy I feel with the cold weather. The pictures are fairly step by step format and shouldn't need much explaining but if you have any question feel free. The spark plug boot seal from the stock coil just slides right off and fits the ford one perfectly and that had me surprised. It actually seals better than the stock spark plug wire does due to being pushed up against the shroud instead of loosely held on. The wire sticking out is for the trail tech tto temp gauge I have installed. As for the 3rd wire in the ignition coil harness its just some wire thats not hooked to anything and doesn't even matter. I snipped it where the metal tape was peeled back to and electrical taped it from end to end to reduce water or anything pooling in the wire loom. The bike runs even better than it did with the Chrysler coil due to this one being brand new and most likely has a more favorable duty cycle seeing as how ford v8's tend to be a higher revving engine vs jeep v6's. So this coil may spark faster and be able to spark more frequently than the stock one even. That thing barely even had spark it seemed like. drive.google.com/folderview?id=0By2rcNqfITkKTkg1TDIzS3cxNjA&usp=sharing
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Post by defenestrate on Feb 13, 2015 23:06:48 GMT -5
This is very cool. the COP setup is one of the few things I like late model autos for. As long as it is working, I'd assume the MTBF on these to be far better than almost any stock scooter coils.
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Post by chehystpewpur on Feb 14, 2015 23:58:22 GMT -5
I've got a good bit of time on it now and its still going well. So screw buying a stock coil if this one dies. I'm actually debating on one of the accel coils or something of the like. I'm spinning over 10k on my new motor and I think something made to spark faster and accurately at a high rpm is going to be really beneficial. I remember years back I read some articles about the high performance coils being a waste of money for most people but engines that operate at crazy high rpms is where those coils actually can make it break an engine. Most coils like that get rated like 10,000 volts hotter than a stock coil but its just a peak one time number. Every spark after that optimal rating spark is going to be a near miss of optimal and weaker the longer its running and exponentially weaker as rpms rise. A 45,000 volt coil might only make 10,000 volts at 8,000 rpm and after 9,000 or 10,000 it might not even be able to charge fast enough and not even fire at all sometimes. The real high performance coils for cars can charge really fast and actually put out more volts on their near miss sparks than the stock ones for that vehicle ever could. So basically on the high rpm screamers you start to lose cylinders with a stock coil and on a stockish motor you wouldn't be seeing any real difference. So when I source a cheap and decent ford v8 performance coil with the soft boot and specs I like ill post some results.
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