|
|
Post by stoneforth on Mar 5, 2015 6:33:56 GMT -5
For ring seal...
What rules should i follow?
So far all i've found on google is not to keep it at the same rpm, give some high rev bursts, and don't use accelerator past 3/4.
Also, when should i change oil.
|
|
|
|
Post by humanshield on Mar 5, 2015 7:59:25 GMT -5
Just keep in mind that there will be more friction during break in.
Friction = heat
Excessive heat = permanent damage.
You don't want that. Avoid hard runs during the first 100 miles. But drive it normally avoiding using full power for more than a few seconds until after a couple hundred miles.
Change the oil after 100 miles. Readjust the valves after 100 miles.
|
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Mar 5, 2015 8:23:21 GMT -5
You'll prob never get everyone to agree on a break-in procedure. That said, here's some of my opinion on it... - Have the carb ready with a jet somewhere in a range that you feel will be appropriate with the BBK. It's hard to know without tuning, but hopefully you'll end up with something close enough to work for a few miles.
- Have tools handy to adjust the idle mixture and speed before the engine is started. If accessing the screws requires removing body panels, have a plan that allows you to ride right after adjusting. I often leave off any non-essential panels such as side fairings and just make sure the seat bucket and all wires, cables, etc... are secure.
- Start the scooter and let it warm up for maybe 5 minutes. As it warms up, adjust the idle speed and mixture screws so that you get a smooth idle and the engine isn't trying to cut out. It doesn't need to be perfect at this point. When it's good enough, secure whatever you need to in order to ride.
- Take the scooter out on the road, track, or wherever it's safe to ride it with minimal traffic. You'll be riding in a strange manner, so it's not a good idea to have any traffic behind you.
- Start by giving it about 1/2 throttle for a few seconds, then letting it decelerate on it's own. Repeat this a few times.
- Do the same thing, but now at 3/4 throttle a few times.
- Go WOT for a few seconds now, again letting off and letting the scooter decelerate on it's own. Repeat a few times.
- With a new kit and no real carb tuning done, I'd head back at this point... or I would have turned around about halfway through the process to head toward home. If you are riding after this, vary throttle position so you don't hold one speed or RPM.
From there I would work on getting the tune dialed in with WOT passes and different jets. Give it at least 20 miles of varied throttle riding before riding it as usual. I change the old oil after the BBK install so you drain out any debris that may have made it's way into the crankcase. Then I'd change the oil after about 20 miles. Again around 100-200 miles. Again by 500 miles. Then stick with my usual 500 mile intervals. Stick with conventional non-synthetic for the first 500 miles or so. At very least use it for the first oil change. Some don't change it as often, some use synthetic from the start... again everyone has their own preferences. Magnetic drain plugs are good for this (and full time use). They can really show you how much metal is worked off and you can also see how it tapers off on subsequent oil changes. You may wish to check the head bolt torque after your first rides and tuning as well. Sometimes it doesn't change, but sometimes the gaskets will compress after the engine has been ran for a bit. Check the valves while you've got the valve cover off. I run the hell out of any new scoot or engine combo pretty much right off the bat. |
|
|
|
Post by birdman on Mar 5, 2015 13:53:46 GMT -5
All good info!! I just Corsa'd my Elite on Tuesday  |
|
|
|
Post by Sitticuss on Mar 5, 2015 13:55:42 GMT -5
The old timers always used to say..."you want a cylinder to wear alot at first then not at all"
|
|
|
|
Post by stoneforth on Mar 5, 2015 15:23:37 GMT -5
Just keep in mind that there will be more friction during break in. Friction = heat Excessive heat = permanent damage. You don't want that. Avoid hard runs during the first 100 miles. But drive it normally avoiding using full power for more than a few seconds until after a couple hundred miles. Change the oil after 100 miles. Readjust the valves after 100 miles. You'll prob never get everyone to agree on a break-in procedure. That said, here's some of my opinion on it... - Have the carb ready with a jet somewhere in a range that you feel will be appropriate with the BBK. It's hard to know without tuning, but hopefully you'll end up with something close enough to work for a few miles.
- Have tools handy to adjust the idle mixture and speed before the engine is started. If accessing the screws requires removing body panels, have a plan that allows you to ride right after adjusting. I often leave off any non-essential panels such as side fairings and just make sure the seat bucket and all wires, cables, etc... are secure.
- Start the scooter and let it warm up for maybe 5 minutes. As it warms up, adjust the idle speed and mixture screws so that you get a smooth idle and the engine isn't trying to cut out. It doesn't need to be perfect at this point. When it's good enough, secure whatever you need to in order to ride.
- Take the scooter out on the road, track, or wherever it's safe to ride it with minimal traffic. You'll be riding in a strange manner, so it's not a good idea to have any traffic behind you.
- Start by giving it about 1/2 throttle for a few seconds, then letting it decelerate on it's own. Repeat this a few times.
- Do the same thing, but now at 3/4 throttle a few times.
- Go WOT for a few seconds now, again letting off and letting the scooter decelerate on it's own. Repeat a few times.
- With a new kit and no real carb tuning done, I'd head back at this point... or I would have turned around about halfway through the process to head toward home. If you are riding after this, vary throttle position so you don't hold one speed or RPM.
From there I would work on getting the tune dialed in with WOT passes and different jets. Give it at least 20 miles of varied throttle riding before riding it as usual. I change the old oil after the BBK install so you drain out any debris that may have made it's way into the crankcase. Then I'd change the oil after about 20 miles. Again around 100-200 miles. Again by 500 miles. Then stick with my usual 500 mile intervals. Stick with conventional non-synthetic for the first 500 miles or so. At very least use it for the first oil change. Some don't change it as often, some use synthetic from the start... again everyone has their own preferences. Magnetic drain plugs are good for this (and full time use). They can really show you how much metal is worked off and you can also see how it tapers off on subsequent oil changes. You may wish to check the head bolt torque after your first rides and tuning as well. Sometimes it doesn't change, but sometimes the gaskets will compress after the engine has been ran for a bit. Check the valves while you've got the valve cover off. I run the hell out of any new scoot or engine combo pretty much right off the bat. Awesome info. Is there any cheap oil i can use for it. I usually buy a 1L $15 bottle of 4 stroke oil to empty into it, but this could get a little pricey for me. I have the whole engine apart right now to clean and put in oil seals and gaskets, and a new crank. I have a new keihin carb with 85 main. I couldn't get it to run right with when i tried it last year with stock jets so i hope i can tune it properly this time. I think my original jet was 71 or something. I think i also have a 78 in another old carb. Stock airbox and exhaust. |
|
|
|
Post by 90GTVert on Mar 5, 2015 16:26:18 GMT -5
You should be able to pick up some 15W40 Pennzoil, Shell, Mobil, Castrol, etc.. pretty cheap. If you want to use it for a while, a gallon of some of those at Wal-Mart will save money vs buying quarts.
|
|
|
|
Post by stoneforth on Mar 5, 2015 19:09:51 GMT -5
You should be able to pick up some 15W40 Pennzoil, Shell, Mobil, Castrol, etc.. pretty cheap. If you want to use it for a while, a gallon of some of those at Wal-Mart will save money vs buying quarts. I usually use castrol activ motorcycle oil. Have you heard of Caltex Havoline Engine Oil (SJ) 15W-40? I'd only be using it for the break in. It's a gallon for $20 and says this: Quality engine oil for use in a wide range of passenger car and light-duty commercial vehicle gasoline engines where API SJ or lower performance lubricants are required
|
|
|
|
Post by frank50e on Mar 5, 2015 20:20:29 GMT -5
First we build race motors 500 singles and 750 twins for a living.We STRONGLY recommend the following to our customers especially when running forged pistons.First heat cycling.I lubricate the valves stem and cam with 30 weight non detergent oil and leave the valve caps off.Now you can't do that with a scooter but I'd place a pan under the head and start and run til you see oil flow to the topend.Then button things up and allow engine to cool to room temp.Then not guessing but using a watch start and run for 45 secs.and allow to cool to room temp.Repeat adding 45 secs to each cycle til you hit 10.Then with a fan blowing on it start and run at 1250 rpm's for 5 mins.Then cool. Repeat 4 times.Change oil and ride with varying throttle settings for 50 miles. Change oil.Then ride it like you stole it.Takes patience but you won't have a worn out motor at 1 or 2k miles.I change the ring on my Bultaco after every race and spend a whole day heat cycling then race it.There are lengthy boring artIcles on the THEORY of heat cycling but all agree it's the best break in procedure.
|
|
|
|
Post by frank50e on Mar 5, 2015 20:23:57 GMT -5
Oh yeah retorque head every few cycles and adjust valves after the 50 mi run on a t stroke.
|
|
|
|
Post by frank50e on Mar 5, 2015 20:26:49 GMT -5
4 stroke
|
|
|
|
Post by walleye1963 on Mar 5, 2015 20:47:24 GMT -5
The same way you do any other .ride like hell.
|
|
|
|
Post by stoneforth on Mar 6, 2015 2:46:16 GMT -5
First we build race motors 500 singles and 750 twins for a living.We STRONGLY recommend the following to our customers especially when running forged pistons.First heat cycling.I lubricate the valves stem and cam with 30 weight non detergent oil and leave the valve caps off.Now you can't do that with a scooter but I'd place a pan under the head and start and run til you see oil flow to the topend.Then button things up and allow engine to cool to room temp.Then not guessing but using a watch start and run for 45 secs.and allow to cool to room temp.Repeat adding 45 secs to each cycle til you hit 10.Then with a fan blowing on it start and run at 1250 rpm's for 5 mins.Then cool. Repeat 4 times.Change oil and ride with varying throttle settings for 50 miles. Change oil.Then ride it like you stole it.Takes patience but you won't have a worn out motor at 1 or 2k miles.I change the ring on my Bultaco after every race and spend a whole day heat cycling then race it.There are lengthy boring artIcles on the THEORY of heat cycling but all agree it's the best break in procedure. I'm gonna splice this method with 90's method as i don't have a rev counter. Great info. Those ring changes sound tedious. My manual also says to grease engine bearings, and cam chain... not sure about that |
|
|
|
Post by frank50e on Mar 6, 2015 3:36:49 GMT -5
That's a race motor which lives just under 14k not everyday rider.
|
|
