Peugeot FE53 series 3 1994 Scoot

[fe53series3]

I've just been given this scoot, in payment for fixing a local lad's AM6.

Downloaded the manual from this site  
FB 0-1-2-4

I think this will be pretty close, as the engine format is the same, with the vertical cylinder.

I stripped the carb and reed block.
Tickled the reed face, as the petals were not fully in contact with the full face.

The needle appears to be electroplated..... and the plating is coming off



Here are the carb specs:

Gurtner Carb - 341.1.C.IG12

PA 12/12
main jet: 72
Needle: L3035
Cutaway: 3DA

I'm clearly gonna need a new needle...... it farts and misses, as speed increases.
However, I do have a spare Dellorto PHBN 16..... but it has the round outlet, so a mod is required to get it to fit.

Maybe this mod has been tried before?

Exhaust is stock..... not bad for 21 years old,  but something is loose inside....... maybe it has a cat unit that fallen out of its bracket.
I renovated the exhaust with phosphoric acid, turning the rust into something other than rust....... a nice hard black shell:



I sealed it with grey hammerite....... so far it is staying on, but I reckon around the exhaust manifold it will come off

It seems to take a lot of revs before the drive bites...... there doesn't appear to be 'slow running'.

Does anybody have any experience of these engines?
Can the drive point be adjusted?

I had a look at it working, with the cover off.
It seems to be governed by the flywheel speed, but I note there is a clutch mechanism at the wheel end.

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

[Fox]

Hello and welcome!

I am thinking maybe you can just put the needle in a drill and spin it on some fine emery cloth to remove the plating altogether.

[fe53series3]

Apr 23, 2015 21:12:11 GMT -5 Fox said:

Hello and welcome!

I am thinking maybe you can just put the needle in a drill and spin it on some fine emery cloth to remove the plating altogether.

Yes!......great minds and all that...... I was reviewing the board this morning, and had another look at the pics, and the same thought crossed my mind also.

The only prob would be a much richer needle.

The other thought I had was to place solder on the needle, and then polish it down in a drill.
This would be less risky, in that I should be able to maintain the original dimensions.

The great news is that I've managed to rebuild the front disk brake, with new fluid.

This was a nightmare, as the kid who had it, found the brake to be stuck on, so released the caliper screws
Of course, the o ring expanded, and he couldn't re-clamp them together.
We then had a little flood, and so the calipers fill with flood water and silt.

Getting the master cylinder working, with a completely empty system is a no go, so:
I filled the brake hose, using a funnel and aluminium tape, and then attached it to the master cylinder & caliper.
Then with the m/c low, and the caliper high (both in vices), I attached the funnel with silicone tube, into the bleed hole, and filled it with fluid.
With a piece of wood between the pistons, it was then just a case of pumping the lever, until all the air was out.
Final stage was with the bleed screw back in place, with the clear tube and funnel....... and standard bleed procedure, to eliminate the last bit of air from the calipers.

What a palaver....... but I've just tested it...... and I now have a front brake again 

So now it's just the needle.

BTW....... how the hell do the front forks work?
It's just a welded 'U' with two SHOWA struts sticking out.
Are they just springs and air?

Also BTW......... should I copy this post and your quote to my new thread on the troubleshooting forum?
This being the lobby...... maybe it would be better to have all the technical stuff in one place 

[90GTVert]

I moved the posts for you.

The needle will probably act a bit different being smaller diameter and you may need to do some other tuning, but it could work if you can't find a replacement.

[fe53series3]

Apr 24, 2015 11:29:11 GMT -5 90GTVert said:

I moved the posts for you.

The needle will probably act a bit different being smaller diameter and you may need to do some other tuning, but it could work if you can't find a replacement.

Thanks for that.
I'll try to have a go at the needle mod this weekend.

Another prob has shown up..... the fuel tank filter appears to be almost blocked..... or the petcock.

Hopefully should get some running done, and a few photos.

[Fox]

You say the clip is on the top notch so that would be the leanest setting. As the clip gets lowered it raises the needle relative to the jet so lower clip = richer air/fuel mix at WOT. If you feel it's too rich after the needle mod (black sooty plug) then you can open up the air box/flow a little.

I tried to find a pic of your scooter but failed. Could you post some?

[fe53series3]

Apr 24, 2015 21:55:54 GMT -5 Fox said:

You say the clip is on the top notch so that would be the leanest setting. As the clip gets lowered it raises the needle relative to the jet so lower clip = richer air/fuel mix at WOT. If you feel it's too rich after the needle mod (black sooty plug) then you can open up the air box/flow a little.

I tried to find a pic of your scooter but failed. Could you post some?

Would you believe it!...... and I've developed needle mapping software for the PHBN carb (which we'll get to play with when I've finished the mod).
I must have had one glass too many, when I posted

Thanks for picking up on that..... I'll edit the post (and self flagellate for 5 minutes).
I once made a similar inversion mistake on a post re 'front rear sprockets', creating raucous amusement.
Ah well..... I guess it shows I'm not a robot

RE the pics........ all the bodywork is off the bike at the mo, so the pics I'll post below are 'of the type'.

Like you, I also did a search, but I had the advantage of knowing what the bike, and its body kit looked like.

Living in France....... previously, nifty fifties were not registered ie. no number plate required.
So there are a lot of bikes around that became non-road legal.
One has to throw 50€ at the manufacturer, and they will provide a 'certificate of conformity' which can then be used to register the bike for legal road use.
Because of this, and general fear of 'legal machinations' there are a lot of bikes being sold off very cheaply, without any paperwork.
Hence, all I've got is the designation FE 053 series III 1994 taken from the VIN plate on the frame.

Pictures & Info

So, it could be a Hercules:
databikes.com/infophoto/herkules/reggae__hercules__peugeot-1995.html


__________

This one below, has exactly the same body kit, other than the front wheel plastic...... and mine has a disk brake.... yet bizarrely this one is a 1998 model.

The guy obviously called it a Peugeot Design.... because that is what is written on the speedo (I initially thought it was called that too)

 www.gumtree.com/p/peugeot-motorbikes/peugeot-design-moped-50cc/1084451775


____________

This one shows the front forks and disk brake, same as mine.... so mix the body kit above, with the forks and disk below, and you have my scoot:
onlycarspictures.com/photo/peugeot-buxy/11/default.html



___________

Here is one that must be the same, but no name is given other than FE 53 1994:
www.motorkari.cz/motorka/?mid=35018&act=info&scr=520

Here's another but 1998:
databikes.com/infophoto/peugeot/hercules_053_fe_de-1998.html

Note: it has very small diameter wheels, and very fat tyres 120/90 - 10 56J
The wheels are so small, I could only just fit the brake caliper (with a tap).
To refit the wheel I had to remove the caliper.

The front bodywork above the wheel, provides storage space (I found a working lighter, and a new puncture repair aerosol )

Current Status

I removed the petrol tank, and dismantled the fuel tap.
Blowing through the tap body, everything was clear.
On the base of the tap internal body was a silicone layer...... I thought it must be standard, but....

On re-assembly, there is barely any fuel getting through.
Stupidly, I didn't check fuel flow, before re-fitting the tank, so I'm now draining it again (in situ).

Maybe an o ring should be fitted.
Maybe the previous owner had used silicone, to stop a leak.
Anyway...... I've got to fix the tap.

Re: PHBN mod
I've measured and drawn the manifold spacer.



Having looked in the shed I've found an old car brake pad, that will supply the metal for the 'flange to round' conversion.



The concept is, to cut the brake pad, to the overall flange dimensions, and fixing holes...... while the central main hole will match the PHBN outlet external diameter of 24mm :



The new screw-on flange (cut from the brake pad) can then be two-part epoxied to the PHBN outlet (after matching it to the inlet manifold).

This may raise a few eyebrows, but, given I can accurately file the flange diameter, with a chamfer to hold the epoxy..... it should be fine

Cast Inlet Manifold

The task, will be to open up, and gas flow the cast aluminium manifold throat, to match the PHBN throat.
Having measured the reed cage area...... it would appear that it can take this increase in airflow.

We will only be going from a 120mm sq throat, to a 160mm sq throat...... my guess is that it will be fine.

We can all then have a bit of fun seeing what jet and needle is best....... I have the full range of jets, and a good selection of needles.

It's all going well....... just the daft thing with the fuel tap...... a glitch simply to annoy us

[fe53series3]

The work with the fuel tap didn't go well.
The primary joint was a jelly affair, that located within the three fuel ducts: normal, reserve, out.



The fuel was just trickling through, but this wasn't the cause of the problem.
I ended up modifying a kitchen tap washer, simply to get the tap 'fuel tight'.
I now have no 'on/off', but at least it doesn't leak.
I think it must be a new fuel tap, as making the joint will be a nightmare.

RE the PHBN carb mod
Progress has been made

I marked out the brake pad, and centre punched it:



I then drilled it out, and chiseled between each hole, to remove the central metal:



The mounting holes were drilled to 5mm for tapping to 6mm.
The roughed outlet was then ground, using a tapered grinding tool in my pedestal drill.

You can see how it has worn away, but it has created a nice circumference, from which I can file out the rest of the metal.



Here is the flange, with the ground circumference:



Next stage is to file the hole to fit the carb outlet.
Then tap the 6mm threads.

After that, I'll fix the flange to the inlet manifold, and scribe into the aluminium, the new diameter.

BTW..... having started the project..... today I found a pre-made inlet manifold, to convert to the PHBN carb.
www.pedparts.co.uk/product/1530/motoforce-racing-inlet-manifold--peugeot-speedfight

Anyway...... I've started now.... so I'll finish

[fe53series3]

The project is going well

The flange plate throat, and screw threads are complete, and it's ready for cutting to shape.

I used a round file to rough out the jagged edges, then moved to using a 11mm diamond boring drill, in a pedestal drill, to take the diameter to PHBN external throat size.


Here's a short video for anybody interested in seeing how that all panned out:
(it covers some of the ground we've already gone over, but from a Youtube perspective, this was needed)
 

[fe53series3]

Tried to post another vid on the gas flow work but it wouldn't load (and couldn't figure out how to delete the post   )
Perhaps there's a time limit between posting vids.

(I also haven't figured out how to display threads newest first)

[90GTVert]

There is no time limit between posting vids here. Should work if all links etc... are good. Nicely done vid and part fab so far BTW.

[fe53series3]

Apr 27, 2015 11:03:57 GMT -5 90GTVert said:

......... Nicely done vid and part fab so far BTW.

Thanks....... yes, it's going well so far

Following from the previous post........... I then progressed to the gas flow work on the inlet manifold.

I used 2 sizes of rotary emery cloth.

The large diameter was good for the inlet side.
The smaller diameter was better for relieving the four shoulders at the reed cage side.

Both were used in general, around the piece....... it was just a case of 'suck it and see'.

I finished off with a felt buffing wheel, and polishing paste.
I didn't go for a mirror finish....... it takes for ever to achieve, and there are no real gains

Here's another short video examining the gas flow work:

Note: if the video doesn't appear embedded in this post....... you can view it here:

youtu.be/tHM2-6Q1ljE


 


Next task is to cut out the flange, and bond it to the PHBN carb.

[Florida Antique]

That Intake and carb mounting are exactly like the one on my Honda Aero. I know back in the '80s Honda made scooters for Peugeot and they had a version of my '83 Aero. In Europe it was call a Lead 80. I know that Honda made a 80CC then a 90CC Lead and I think they ended up with a 100CC Lead in the mid '90s. All of them were 2 stroke bikes. If it is a vertical 2 stroke with the carb intake on the left side above the CVT, I would not be surprised if what you are working on is actually a Honda.

[fe53series3]

Apr 27, 2015 16:36:48 GMT -5 Florida Antique said:

That Intake and carb mounting are exactly like the one on my Honda Aero. I know back in the '80s Honda made scooters for Peugeot and they had a version of my '83 Aero. In Europe it was call a Lead 80. I know that Honda made a 80CC then a 90CC Lead and I think they ended up with a 100CC Lead in the mid '90s. All of them were 2 stroke bikes. If it is a vertical 2 stroke with the carb intake on the left side above the CVT, I would not be surprised if what you are working on is actually a Honda.

That's interesting.

The carb is definitely French..... a Gurtner.
Here's a link to the nearest workshop manual....... for an FB, but so far it all looks the same.
Does it ring a bell?

I found this link that lists a few scooter service manuals:
motorscooterguide.net/Downloads/Downloads.html

Here's the manual for the 85 Honda Lead 80 model:

www.motorscooterguide.net/Manuals/Honda_NH80_1985_Service_Manual.pdf

There are definitely similarities...... but mines a 94.
However, I see what you mean about the side carb inlet manifold

[Florida Antique]

Look at a Honda Dio and see if that looks closer to your scooter. Honda scooters are the only 2 stroke scooters that have that manifold so that's why I think except for the carb it may be a Dio engine