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Post by tsimi on Oct 3, 2015 6:21:31 GMT -5
So here she is...my 5BM engine that I got for free! ( Lucass2T hi there!   ) Came from a Jog CV50R Year: 2001  The first thing I did is remove the reed valve to make sure it is the angled one.  Inner diameter is 23.5mm  a peek into the inside of the engine... Looks better on the inside then she does on the outside.  This is my first engine that is not attached to a frame and therefore I have a lot questions. But let's start with the following questions. 1. Is there a tutorial here in the forum that explains how to split the cases "without" a splitting tool? 2. What would be the best way to clean the engine on the inside and outside? House hold materials preferably. I have available carb cleaner, break cleaner, WD40, compressed air cans, vinegar, glass cleaner, alcohol for cleaning (and drinking  ) |
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Post by 190mech on Oct 3, 2015 7:01:04 GMT -5
An automotive steering wheel puller can be adapted to work as a crankcase splitter,need some long 8mm bolts or all thread rod also..Regular paint thinner(mineral spirits) works well for parts washing..If you are going to reuse the crank,DO NOT hammer on it..Good luck!  |
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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 3, 2015 8:02:17 GMT -5
Myself i just remove everyhting that can be removed from the cases. Undo all the bolts.
Grab a torch and heat the cases to 110-120 celcius (230-250 fahrenheit). Then with a little force you can just pluck the cases apart. NEVER use a hammer or use force.
Cleaning works best with just regular clean petrol or diesel! Cheap, available everywhere and gets everything clean! I would suggest to use chemical gloves since gasoline can be absorbd through the skin.
Use a round paint brush or a brush for the dishes. A teeth brush or wire brush (on a stick, dunno how thats called) for the small spaces.
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 3, 2015 8:12:07 GMT -5
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Post by tsimi on Oct 3, 2015 8:25:45 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I'll start by cleaning the outer area first and then see if I can get a tool from the local bike shop to open the cases otherwise I'll wait till my next salary day and then I'll buy a case splitter and a bearing puller set. oldgeekThanks for the link. I am familiar with KN企画 products. They seem to be the only ones that sell a big reed valve for that case. Link Do you still have your 5BM case? Do you know how heavy (kg or lbs) it is when stripped clean. No bearings, no top end, no gears just the bare cases. |
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 3, 2015 8:33:33 GMT -5
............ Do you still have your 5BM case? Do you know how heavy (kg or lbs) it is when stripped clean. No bearings, no top end, no gears just the bare cases. I do have a spare set of cases, but I do not know the weight of the cases by themselves. |
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Post by tsimi on Oct 4, 2015 5:18:16 GMT -5
First cleaning session is finished! I ran out of carb cleaner. lol  The crank where the variator goes on was extreme rusted but a bit of WD40 and a wire brush did wonders. As you will see in the images below there is also rust inside the crank case where the crank sits. Looks like some rain got in there when it was laying outside I hope I will be able to brush that off with a rotary or hand wire brush once I get the case splitted. For this month this is how far I can go. I have not the financial background to afford a splitter and a fly wheel puller at the moment. As soon I get salary I will go and get the 3 pcs set(Crank case splitter, crank installer and fly wheel puller) from amazon for $100. Lucass2T -> The cases in their current state (stator, crank, center stand, oil pump still attached) weighs 8.9kg So here some images crank looks OK  crank is not OK  crank case inner rust  Got a few spare parts now  Axel shot there are around 5-6 teeth that look like that.  after first carb cleaner session  Removed rust from the crank  case cleaned until here  stator side  |
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Post by tsimi on Oct 4, 2015 6:30:38 GMT -5
How can I remove that main rod that sits on top of the engine where gets connected to the frame?
And how do you remove or install the 4 studs that the cylinder sits on?
I looked at Brents tutorial but he skips those steps and doesn't show it.
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Post by oldgeek on Oct 4, 2015 8:06:49 GMT -5
How can I remove that main rod that sits on top of the engine where gets connected to the frame? And how do you remove or install the 4 studs that the cylinder sits on? I looked at Brents tutorial but he skips those steps and doesn't show it. Clean the shaft up with some fine sand paper. Then remove and slide the snap rings to the center of the shaft. If the cylinder studs are in good condition, I would leave them alone, no need to remove them IMO. |
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Post by Lucass2T on Oct 4, 2015 8:43:28 GMT -5
Thanks tsimi for weighing the engine!
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Post by tsimi on Oct 4, 2015 8:49:19 GMT -5
Thanks tsimi for weighing the engine! No problem. Let's see how much it's gonna weigh once everything comes down. I'll keep you updated. |
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Post by tsimi on Oct 6, 2015 3:07:57 GMT -5
Crank case splitter, crank installer and fly wheel puller are on the way. Hopefully i can get to work over the weekend.
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Post by spaz12 on Oct 6, 2015 3:11:46 GMT -5
Does that motor use the same crank that's in the Zuma? Do you know?
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Post by tsimi on Oct 6, 2015 3:16:26 GMT -5
Sorry spaz12 i have no idea what crank a Zuma has. Maybe Lucass2T knows more? Or i could measure it once the case is open. |
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Post by spaz12 on Oct 6, 2015 3:19:34 GMT -5
Is this the motor that you are looking to buy a crank for?  |
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