|
Post by niz76 on Mar 30, 2016 17:49:42 GMT -5
Clean em out and run em!
|
|
|
Post by tiny on Mar 30, 2016 18:18:24 GMT -5
Here are some pics Those first Pictures with the crud inside looks like a coolant leak. Glycol got mixed with the oil to produce that crap you see there nothing good to come by that mess. Case you can clean up but would need new crank and bearings and would need to find the leak or it will happen again.
|
|
|
Post by tiny on Mar 30, 2016 18:20:29 GMT -5
Sorry Looks like that first engine had/has a coolant leek that caused that crap you see. Would need to clean up the case plus replace the crank and bearings and find the leak or it will happen again. I've seen it a few times on older engines at the dealership Not Good deadly.
|
|
|
Post by 190mech on Mar 30, 2016 18:40:29 GMT -5
I'd be careful about motor #2 also,see rust pitting on a crank wheel and some on the rod,,that means the big end bearing is likely rust pitted..Only way to really know is break down the crank,or replace it..Sorry for the sad details,just seen it a bunch of times already...
|
|
|
Post by 180°off on Apr 1, 2016 20:23:48 GMT -5
Thanks for the great news everyone! Well I guess surgery will commense soon. Hopefully bearings and crank won't cost to much. Anyone intrested in a plasma cutter? It's a Miller and runs on 110. It can be yours for only 600 dollars!
|
|
|
Post by Raizer on Apr 1, 2016 20:50:56 GMT -5
Bearings and crank seals should run you less than $15 if you buy them from an industrial bearing shop. Depending on how bad the big end bearing is you might get away with cleaning up your existing crank too.
Have seen much worse cleaned up with petrol and ran for years.
|
|
|
Post by gsx600racer on Apr 2, 2016 0:07:10 GMT -5
As long as exposure to that stuff does not infect ya and cause a zombie outbreak. In all seriousness, it looks like rust like others say. A complete tear down is the only way you will know the extend of the damage the rust did.
|
|