Kymco agility Led headlight mod ac to dc!+ wire diagram!

[diynuke]

Do you also think your headlight should be allot brighter?   me too so lets change it to led!
What do we need?
*h4 led Hi/Lo 35W
*voltage regulator
*filtercap 
*crimpconnectors
*mounting hardware for the voltage regulator     (so maybe a drill and a tap if you want to do it really good)
*heatshrink and isolationtape/electricaltape to make everything weatherproof & never forget the tyraps!
Ebay links at the bottom!

Okay first we need to find the feed wire  to the headlight so i found some pictures of the wire diagram of an an kymco agility 50
so here they are


battery



starter



charge circuit



fuel meter



headlight HI



Headlight LO



Headlight pass (left passing switch so power from the battery)



This is the most important schematic for us! so this is the whole front lighting assembly schematic!



Horn/claxon



Ignition



lighting (dashboard rear light etc)



Original wire diagram (pretty hard to find things isn't it?



Resistor



More lighting


starting diagram



brake lights



Blinker/winker diagram





For how to wire everything stay tuned the old way i described just didn't work so sorry for keeping it online for so long
so i hope nobody had spliced they cable harness yet..









filter capacitor: www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-AUDIO-Electrolytic-Capacitor-NIPPON-30-41mm-10000UF63V-63V10000UF-/272086172736?hash=item3f59998440:g:Fg0AAOSw~otWe8C7 (look for a high quality one! so it should have 105 Degree C temp rating!)

second cap link if link is broken: www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&LH_FS=1&_nkw=30v%201000mf%20capacitor&rt=nc&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo&_udhi=9

H4 led:http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_udhi=50&_mPrRngCbx=1&LH_FS=1&_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=H4%2035w%20hi/lo%20led&rt=nc&_udlo
(don't go too cheap it is your light and you will not be happy if its crappy and it shuts off on a dark road...      i thought the same cheap should be fine but no it stopped working after 15minutes of riding so its the best to order it on an webshop in your own country
and you want the type with an small reflector on it not the 3 led type because the light image is pretty bad so you will blind allot of people 
that way)

this on has an way better light image than the bottom one because the little reflector!

                          



                         

I hope i helped you all a small bit when i get my parts i will continue this part!





Update:
i changed my led back to halogen.
When i have the regulator installed i will install it again since the led starts to flash on some rpm's so i guess its just in the wrong voltage range 

[diynuke]

okay i have been fidling around with the voltage regulators and it won't work so i already bought 2 rectifiers and 2 caps and now i am going to order 2 stepup-stepdown converters since the voltage after rectification is between 8v-42v so thats way too high for the led so the stepup-stepdown converters should fix that voltage to 12v

can't wait to get it working since it already has been a while!

[gsx600racer]

Too low or too high of a capacitance will give you undesirable results.

Too low will drain the cap too quickly = flicker

Too high and you will not charge the cap fully = dimmer light

Also I think 63v cap is overkill. 16v - 25v should be enough.

[FrankenMech]

Reconnect/repair the yellow and green wires. Wire your LED lights from the same connections that go to your halogen lights, Lavender?, White, and Green for ground. Run the scoot.

[diynuke]

Mar 19, 2017 18:27:02 GMT -5 FrankenMech said:

Reconnect/repair the yellow and green wires. Wire your LED lights from the same connections that go to your halogen lights, Lavender?, White, and Green for ground. Run the scoot.

i already reconnected those  and i used an male and female h4 plug to add a rectifier  which i have 
installed now and it already is much much brighter but when i rev it high it starts to flicker and the second row of leds start to light up so i guess thats a way to handle overvoltage on the led  and i measured 40v with a load on it (the led)

so or my voltage regulator is bad  (it is bad since my charging voltage is 18v which aint good at all....)
or it isn't regulated and i have to stick an step-up step-down converter in it to regulate is correctly

those converters should be able to handle 8v-50v and maintain a steady 12v or a bit higher since the led is max rated for 30v  
 

but damn i hoped to install it a bit easier xD

light: 125$
2 filter caps: 5$
2 rectifiers: 8$
2:voltage regulators:4$ <---cheap asf... thats probbaly why they suck xD
load of crimp connectors: 5$
total so far=147$  and still don't have it running
so if it isn't the voltage regulator i have to buy 2 voltage converters and those are 10$ a piece
so then its = 167$ ;P


and that for an led headlight xD

[diynuke]

Mar 18, 2017 1:23:03 GMT -5 gsx600racer said:

Too low or too high of a capacitance will give you undesirable results.

Too low will drain the cap too quickly = flicker

Too high and you will not charge the cap fully = dimmer light

Also I think 63v cap is overkill. 16v - 25v should be enough.

i agree.  The cap isn't too big since it still is way brighter than without the cap  and still has some flicker in it so maybe i can try adding another 1    and now there is 40v going in the caps so i guess its good it aint 25v caps or something like that 
but it can indeed be a faulty multimeter but i guess it is that high since the led starts to flicker at higher revs (lighting extra leds (high beam leds) and not flickering the normaly on led's (low beam))

should be overvoltage protection

[gsx600racer]

Mar 20, 2017 3:28:10 GMT -5 diynuke said:

Mar 18, 2017 1:23:03 GMT -5 gsx600racer said:

Too low or too high of a capacitance will give you undesirable results.

Too low will drain the cap too quickly = flicker

Too high and you will not charge the cap fully = dimmer light

Also I think 63v cap is overkill. 16v - 25v should be enough.

i agree.  The cap isn't too big since it still is way brighter than without the cap  and still has some flicker in it so maybe i can try adding another 1    and now there is 40v going in the caps so i guess its good it aint 25v caps or something like that 
but it can indeed be a faulty multimeter but i guess it is that high since the led starts to flicker at higher revs (lighting extra leds (high beam leds) and not flickering the normaly on led's (low beam))

should be overvoltage protection

Agreed, I was not expecting your voltage to be that high. You want your cap voltage rating higher than your highest measured voltage.

You can add caps as long as you do it in parallel. 

[FrankenMech]

Uhhh, replace your scoot voltage regulator. Remove the bridge rectifier. Remove the caps. Connect some regular ~20W 12V headlight bulbs to provide a load for the regulator. Check your charging voltage.

Once you have verified your regulator voltage is back to normal at ~14VDC with the incandescent bulbs and a good charged battery, then and only then, remove the incandescent bulbs and hook up your LED bulbs directly to your headlight system.

Don't try to overthink things. This ain't rocket science. KISS!!!

[diynuke]

Mar 20, 2017 23:09:17 GMT -5 FrankenMech said:

Uhhh, replace your scoot voltage regulator. Remove the bridge rectifier. Remove the caps. Connect some regular ~20W 12V headlight bulbs to provide a load for the regulator. Check your charging voltage.

Once you have verified your regulator voltage is back to normal at ~14VDC with the incandescent bulbs and a good charged battery, then and only then, remove the incandescent bulbs and hook up your LED bulbs directly to your headlight system.

Don't try to overthink things. This ain't rocket science. KISS!!!

before i hooked it up that way but it started to flicker allot and it does say DC on the back if there was an rectifier in there i guess they would say ac/dc  

and as far as i can see there isn't any regulator for the headlight 
as you can see on the schematic here
postimg.cc/image/s0jfsdm5v/

but ill have a look if there is a difference in the brightness when i change out the old regulator with a new one 

or am i seeing it all wrong and the regulator works as a variable load?
the higher the voltage the higher the load it gives?

[FrankenMech]

Strange, I see a regulator in the upper right corner of the schematic. These are shunt regulators. They are not pass regulators. They 'shunt' excess voltage and current to ground. They do a fair job of regulating as long as you don't overload them.

The nominal voltage markings on the unit are not significant.

[diynuke]

Mar 27, 2017 0:05:02 GMT -5 FrankenMech said:

Strange, I see a regulator in the upper right corner of the schematic. These are shunt regulators. They are not pass regulators. They 'shunt' excess voltage and current to ground. They do a fair job of regulating as long as you don't overload them.

The nominal voltage markings on the unit are not significant.

thats why it gives 40v now    the regulator is busted/wasted....
already have a new one tho so no fear ;D
still have to reinstall the bbk kit but have to wait for the valve seals and a bbk kit for a friend
then it should be all working ;D

[diynuke]

Okay it worked like shit so i removed it all and I've been thinking about it for a few months and i thought if the original bulb was 30w
and the new led bulb only draw's 15w there will be a higher voltage to i would have to put an aditional resistor in to keep the voltage down so i guess ill have to experiment with that now i still would like some high power led's on my scoot xD

And i paid 125 euro for that damn led so i better use it ;D

[mj]

I was thinking about going led on my tao. Are you saying that I just can't get a "led scooter headlight bulb" on ebay?

Thanks

[humanshield]

Did mine last year.
One of the best mods I ever did (other than the performance mods)

2000 lumen superbright LED Headlight install