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Post by eclivo6755 on Feb 3, 2017 15:26:43 GMT -5
I have a TaoTao atm50-a and I put a 100cc bbk on it. :-) As I'm riding it feels like I need better stability in the tires. They're still the stock tires. Anyone have any suggestions on some better tires? I've been looking at different sizes and all but tbh I really am not completely sure what I should get. I read a post explaining the different numbers and all but I'm still just unsure.
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Post by Cincikid on Feb 3, 2017 15:50:49 GMT -5
What conditions do you ride in? Snow, Rain?
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Post by jeff84 on Feb 3, 2017 16:07:49 GMT -5
what size tires are stock? the first number is the width in mm. the second number is the height of the side wall in proportion to the width. and the third number is the diameter of the bead, or inside diameter of the tire. for example. 100/50x10 or p100/50r10 would be 100 mm wide, the side wall would be 50% of that, so 50mm. and it would be for a 10 inch wheel. the other number with a letter is the speed rating. tires.about.com/od/understanding_tires/a/How-To-Read-Your-Tire.htmI personally like Pirelli tires. diablo for 12 inch and sl26 for 10 |
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Post by eclivo6755 on Feb 3, 2017 16:10:06 GMT -5
Everything. I live in the mountains so it's everything. One of the big things I've noticed is when I'm going around a curve, and we have some big ones, it literally feels like the tires are sliding. I've ridden motorcycles and different things so I know what it should feel like with tires with stability and traction and this definitely isn't it. And I feel that in all road conditions so I've actually stopped riding when the roads are wet.
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Post by eclivo6755 on Feb 3, 2017 16:12:33 GMT -5
what size tires are stock? the first number is the width in mm. the second number is the height of the side wall in proportion to the width. and the third number is the diameter of the bead, or inside diameter of the tire. for example. 100/50x10 or p100/50r10 would be 100 mm wide, the side wall would be 50% of that, so 50mm. and it would be for a 10 inch wheel. the other number with a letter is the speed rating. tires.about.com/od/understanding_tires/a/How-To-Read-Your-Tire.htmI personally like Pirelli tires. diablo for 12 inch and sl26 for 10 Yeah I've read that before. The ones on it are 3.50-10. I know what the numbers stand for but it really means nothing to me bc I don't understand what it means. |
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Post by jeff84 on Feb 3, 2017 16:36:44 GMT -5
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Post by jeff84 on Feb 3, 2017 16:41:21 GMT -5
well I don't know why that link doesn't work. motorcyclesuperstore.com is a good place to buy tires. and the sizes I quoted above will work no matter what brand you go with.
by the way I was trying to steer you towards Pirelli sl26's. Michelin city grips are also quite popular but I gave never used them myself so I cant really say, but the sl26's are known for good wet traction
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Post by 2TDave on Feb 3, 2017 17:23:35 GMT -5
Love my Michelin Power Pure SC s
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Post by eclivo6755 on Feb 4, 2017 10:13:57 GMT -5
I guess the only way I can explain what I don't understand about it is like this: if I'm looking at a pteridine pathway I know if the xanthopterin is absent then the result is blue-green pigmentation or if it's sepiapterin absent it'll be sepia but unless I know how those effect the entire pathway I can't say to what degree a mutation in one of those will effect the final pigment. (Yes I'm using a genetics reference bc not a lot of people know what that is which is how I feel when I look at the tire information.) I can regurgitate what each thing means but I don't understand how a change in one aspect effects the overall stability of the whole. So I get that the difference in say a 100/90/10 and a 90/100/10 is that there is a 10mm difference in the width and a 10% difference in the aspect ratio but that doesn't change my understanding of how stable the tires will feel if I'm going around a curve at 60mph. Does giving up the 10% mean that the stability or traction or whatever will be less or does the increase in width make up for that? How does changing one aspect effect the performance in relation to changing another? Does that make it more clear? |
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Post by jeff84 on Feb 4, 2017 10:44:44 GMT -5
those numbers only have to do with the physical size of the tire. they have nothing to do with the performance of the tire.
the tread pattern, and the type of rubber compound used are going to determine how the tire performs.
you just need to either try out a tire that someone recommends, or choose a tire that has good reviews. other than size there really isn't a whole lot to understand. a slightly wider tire can improve handling, but if you go too wide you will run into clearance issues, and the real kicker is that tires are like clothes. two tires that are stated to be the same size might actually be slightly different.
a slightly taller sidewall isn't going to affect how the bike handles. it may however provide a slightly smoother ride, and the circumference of the tire will be slightly larger, so there is the potential to achieve a slightly higher top speed utilizing the same gear ratio.
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 5, 2017 11:53:39 GMT -5
You only need to be concerned with tire size so that you find a tire that fits your wheel and matches somewhere near the original specs of the tire, as far as size. If you started with 3.50 x 10 tires, the easy option is to find replacements that you like in 3.50 x 10. The only reason that you may decide to switch to the other tire size designation system (100/90-10 for example) would be if you can't find a tire that you like that matches the original tire size or if you find something you like more that is rated that way. A 3.50 x 10 should be comparable to a 90/90-10, so if you find something you like in a 90/90-10, that is also a good choice. Hopefully that makes some sense.
You could try tires that are larger or smaller, but I think you will be better off sticking close to the stock size. Taller and wider tires don't always fit without modifications and smaller and narrower tires aren't usually desired. So again, stick with 3.50x10 or 90/90-10 tires.
As Jeff said, those numbers only designate the size. They don't tell you anything about how the tire performs. You could improve dry traction a lot with soft compounds and minimal tread, but then that's worse in other conditions. Tires for dirt or snow aren't as good on dry roads. You have to make a compromise and not go for the baddest racing tire for dry clean roads and not the meanest mud or snow tire. Most of the market is that kind of compromise and one bit of good news is that nearly any tires are likely to be better than stock tires. Stock tires on Chinese scooters are notorious for being subpar.
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Post by FrankenMech on Feb 5, 2017 21:14:28 GMT -5
If you have a local scoot store you could bite the bullet and have them show you your tire choices. Get them to explain the different terms etc and show you examples. Then have them install their recommended tire for the area. You may pay 2x the online price but the education may be worth it.
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Post by Senna1Rossi on Feb 6, 2017 12:58:59 GMT -5
I guess the only way I can explain what I don't understand about it is like this: if I'm looking at a pteridine pathway I know if the xanthopterin is absent then the result is blue-green pigmentation or if it's sepiapterin absent it'll be sepia but unless I know how those effect the entire pathway I can't say to what degree a mutation in one of those will effect the final pigment. (Yes I'm using a genetics reference bc not a lot of people know what that is which is how I feel when I look at the tire information.) I can regurgitate what each thing means but I don't understand how a change in one aspect effects the overall stability of the whole. So I get that the difference in say a 100/90/10 and a 90/100/10 is that there is a 10mm difference in the width and a 10% difference in the aspect ratio but that doesn't change my understanding of how stable the tires will feel if I'm going around a curve at 60mph. Does giving up the 10% mean that the stability or traction or whatever will be less or does the increase in width make up for that? How does changing one aspect effect the performance in relation to changing another? Does that make it more clear?
your scoots goes 60mph?
Get Michelin S1 Urban Scooter tires. Front 90/90-10, and rear 100/80-10 (if it has sufficient clearance).
It will give you more stability. btw, any wider tires will give you more stability. Lower aspect ratio will give you more stability (all stability that are felt is relative, of course).
and anytime you change the stock oem tires on ANY scoots with a reputable aftermarket tires, you will gain confidence and actual traction. OEM tires are different even if it's the same make and model as the aftermarket versions.
Oh, don't forget proper air pressure. many overlook this simple dbl check
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Post by FrankenMech on Feb 6, 2017 18:23:00 GMT -5
FUCK! the damn quote keeps disappearing!!! QUOTE: "OEM tires are different even if it's the same make and model as the aftermarket versions." Damn proboard system with hidden html crap. I should just edit in HTML.... The OEM tires for cagers are the same way. They specs are different for the EPA fleet economy regs. |
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Post by badpumpkin on Feb 7, 2017 21:54:20 GMT -5
In my opinion, tire pressure, is it right? Cornering, move your weight forward and lower. Scooters have a crazy steep fork angle.
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