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Post by Senna1Rossi on Mar 14, 2017 17:35:57 GMT -5
I did search, but it's difficult to find a definitive answer (I know...) to which is BEST plug-n-play for H4 LED headlight bulbs (and it doesn't help matters that new technology for LED is like every 3 or 6 months). I want to get the better quality, but don't want to spend $100 for "just" bulbs...
What do yous youts recommend? Any new news on latest and greatest??
sim. to this...
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Post by spaz12 on Mar 14, 2017 18:01:17 GMT -5
Fur what scoot? Is it DC or AC powered headlights?
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Post by joeorange on Mar 14, 2017 18:08:21 GMT -5
i have that exact set of headlights, and other then wiring the lights to run on DC power they work really well.
mind ya dont look at them directly, they will almost blind you.
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Post by Senna1Rossi on Mar 14, 2017 18:36:17 GMT -5
Fur what scoot? Is it DC or AC powered headlights? i forget which one uses H4 bulbs... lol. i know i need at least three sets for various bikes/scoots |
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Post by Senna1Rossi on Mar 14, 2017 18:38:02 GMT -5
i have that exact set of headlights, and other then wiring the lights to run on DC power they work really well. mind ya dont look at them directly, they will almost blind you. what manu/model did you get for H4? I just found those random pics... |
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Post by joeorange on Mar 14, 2017 19:12:38 GMT -5
i bought these. the main reason i bought them was because they where Canada based. linkwhat manufacturer and model they are im not sure, i threw out the box they came in, but the are extremely well made. |
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 15, 2017 0:46:07 GMT -5
The headlights on most scoots are DC. You can place a 1000uF cap across the headlight + and ground terminals and read the DC voltage without the 'ripple' waveform that confuses most voltmeters and their operators. The regulated voltage should be 13.8-14.2VDC. Some people say the headlight voltage isn't regulated, -if so headlight bulbs would blow like old fashioned flash bulbs.
The power supply regulator for most decent LED lights should have it's own rectifier. There is no need to add another rectifier. Most LED lights are specified to operate from around 10-30VDC. If you find one that says it is rated for 12VDC only don't buy it.
The lights shown above with their flexible heatsink and machined aluminum mount is one of the better designs I have seen. I have seen some with an in/out adjustment for focus. I have my doubts about the units with tiny fans to keep them cool.
The 'lumen' output specs for the China made LED units are all lies.
All the lies will change next week.
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Post by spaz12 on Mar 15, 2017 2:19:57 GMT -5
The headlights on most scoots are DC. You can place a 1000uF cap across the headlight + and ground terminals and read the DC voltage without the 'ripple' waveform that confuses most voltmeters and their operators. The regulated voltage should be 13.8-14.2VDC. Some people say the headlight voltage isn't regulated, -if so headlight bulbs would blow like old fashioned flash bulbs. The power supply regulator for most decent LED lights should have it's own rectifier. There is no need to add another rectifier. Most LED lights are specified to operate from around 10-30VDC. If you find one that says it is rated for 12VDC only don't buy it. The lights shown above with their flexible heatsink and machined aluminum mount is one of the better designs I have seen. I have seen some with an in/out adjustment for focus. I have my doubts about the units with tiny fans to keep them cool. The 'lumen' output specs for the China made LED units are all lies. All the lies will change next week. And here I thought that most scooters had AC powered lights. I wish my Zuma's had them. |
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Post by gsx600racer on Mar 15, 2017 2:41:08 GMT -5
The headlights on most scoots are DC. You can place a 1000uF cap across the headlight + and ground terminals and read the DC voltage without the 'ripple' waveform that confuses most voltmeters and their operators. The regulated voltage should be 13.8-14.2VDC. Some people say the headlight voltage isn't regulated, -if so headlight bulbs would blow like old fashioned flash bulbs. The power supply regulator for most decent LED lights should have it's own rectifier. There is no need to add another rectifier. Most LED lights are specified to operate from around 10-30VDC. If you find one that says it is rated for 12VDC only don't buy it. The lights shown above with their flexible heatsink and machined aluminum mount is one of the better designs I have seen. I have seen some with an in/out adjustment for focus. I have my doubts about the units with tiny fans to keep them cool. The 'lumen' output specs for the China made LED units are all lies. All the lies will change next week. Did you mean to say AC vs DC ? You only have a ripple if its AC going thru a bridge rectifier without a (reservoir)capacitor. Although a capacitor only takes out most of the ripple. |
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Post by Senna1Rossi on Mar 15, 2017 10:44:23 GMT -5
i bought these. the main reason i bought them was because they where Canada based. linkwhat manufacturer and model they are im not sure, i threw out the box they came in, but the are extremely well made. oh cool! Thanks! Will give these a try |
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Post by Senna1Rossi on Mar 15, 2017 10:49:33 GMT -5
The headlights on most scoots are DC. You can place a 1000uF cap across the headlight + and ground terminals and read the DC voltage without the 'ripple' waveform that confuses most voltmeters and their operators. The regulated voltage should be 13.8-14.2VDC. Some people say the headlight voltage isn't regulated, -if so headlight bulbs would blow like old fashioned flash bulbs. The power supply regulator for most decent LED lights should have it's own rectifier. There is no need to add another rectifier. Most LED lights are specified to operate from around 10-30VDC. If you find one that says it is rated for 12VDC only don't buy it. The lights shown above with their flexible heatsink and machined aluminum mount is one of the better designs I have seen. I have seen some with an in/out adjustment for focus. I have my doubts about the units with tiny fans to keep them cool. The 'lumen' output specs for the China made LED units are all lies. All the lies will change next week. Cool, i like having FrankenMech's seal-of-approval on these things. own rectifier. got it. 12VDC only. bad. almost all lumen output is missing a 0 behind the numbers. check. |
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 17, 2017 13:24:35 GMT -5
The headlights on most scoots are DC. You can place a 1000uF cap across the headlight + and ground terminals and read the DC voltage without the 'ripple' waveform that confuses most voltmeters and their operators. The regulated voltage should be 13.8-14.2VDC. Some people say the headlight voltage isn't regulated, -if so headlight bulbs would blow like old fashioned flash bulbs. The power supply regulator for most decent LED lights should have it's own rectifier. There is no need to add another rectifier. Most LED lights are specified to operate from around 10-30VDC. If you find one that says it is rated for 12VDC only don't buy it. The lights shown above with their flexible heatsink and machined aluminum mount is one of the better designs I have seen. I have seen some with an in/out adjustment for focus. I have my doubts about the units with tiny fans to keep them cool. The 'lumen' output specs for the China made LED units are all lies. All the lies will change next week. Did you mean to say AC vs DC ? You only have a ripple if its AC going thru a bridge rectifier without a (reservoir)capacitor. Although a capacitor only takes out most of the ripple. No, the scoot regulators produce a DC current with very high ripple due to their crude regulation methods. The result is DC not AC current. A capacitor will help reduce the ripple that digital voltmeters often miss-display as AC. A plain old analog meter will display as DC voltage. It is a lot easier and cheaper to find a capacitor than it is to get an analog voltmeter nowadays. I have one 30-year old analog voltmeter I treat as if it was made from solid Gold. I have three good digital meters and a bunch of cheapo digital meters. The Zuma probably is DC also. |
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Post by gsx600racer on Mar 17, 2017 23:13:28 GMT -5
Did you mean to say AC vs DC ? You only have a ripple if its AC going thru a bridge rectifier without a (reservoir)capacitor. Although a capacitor only takes out most of the ripple. No, the scoot regulators produce a DC current with very high ripple due to their crude regulation methods. The result is DC not AC current. A capacitor will help reduce the ripple that digital voltmeters often miss-display as AC. A plain old analog meter will display as DC voltage. It is a lot easier and cheaper to find a capacitor than it is to get an analog voltmeter nowadays. I have one 30-year old analog voltmeter I treat as if it was made from solid Gold. I have three good digital meters and a bunch of cheapo digital meters. The Zuma probably is DC also. If your statement was 100% true there would be direct plug in bulbs(for scooters) that would work. Most 50cc scooters headlights are directly powered from the stator(with a single yellow wire & 4 pin regulator)=AC. Thats why most head lights do not come on till the scooter is running. Just follow the yellow wire in this wiring diagram to the head light(switch).  Now on larger scooters that have a 3 pole(full wave & 7 pin regulator) stator all three(yellow)wires go to the voltage regulator first and then its DC from there and that's where you would be 100% correct. Like in this diagram.  From the looks from the service manual(page 160) for the ZUMA, its AC. (Y or Y/R wire) |
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Post by FrankenMech on Mar 18, 2017 0:45:05 GMT -5
Yes, the yellow wire is connected to the regulator where it gets 'hacked' then on to the headdlights. Look again at the actual 4 terminal regulator diagrams. The yellow and white wires both go to the regulator. The regulators just short the AC from the stator to ground when it goes negative and when it goes above the positive regulated point. That is why they get so hot and some scoots require a load resistor because the headlights can be turned off. The always-on headlights are part of the load dump for the system. If you remove the battery the battery side lights would dim when the scoot is idling also. The waveform on both the yellow and white wires is basically a square or truncated DC wave form with lots of spikes and ripples.
The scoot headlamps are not really DOT lighting systems although they claim DOT. The Chinese lie constantly about ratings. They are all 12(14V) bulbs but odd physical configurations. To get a true DOT rating, replacement headlight bulbs have to be available at almost any auto parts store. They can't be a dealer only item. The scoots generally don't have the power capacity to run full 50W+ DOT type headlight bulbs. My scoot had DOT rated lamp assemblies, but the DOT rating was for 6W max bulbs and the OEM had stuck 18/18W bulbs in so it wasn't DOT rated anymore and the plastic mount got really soft and deformed.
Yes, the larger scoots with 6-8 terminal regulators have a full wave 3-phase rectification system. The Zuma is a full three phase rectifier system with a DC output to the headlamps and a optional load resistor for when the headlights are off. Notice the Zuma stator does not have an internal ground.
I have thought about getting into my stator and rewiring it for a full wave rectification system and a better regulator. I haven't done it since I am dropping in a 150cc engine.
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Post by gsx600racer on Mar 18, 2017 22:46:55 GMT -5
Well I guess you can spend the money, plug them in and see if they either work or work for a brief time and then stop working to determine if the power is AC or DC.
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