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Post by dexameth on Jun 5, 2017 17:30:13 GMT -5
So today I swapped my 50mm kit for a brand new SSM 52mm BBK. Needless to say it went smoothly. The only issue was scraping the old gasket maker gunk off. The kit came with: piston, cylinder, head (23mm intake, 20mm exhaust valves), rings, gaskets, rocker arms for 64mm valves and some swear words. I live in a trailer park, but in a camper on a lot. It was raining, so in a dry break I went outside to pull my motor. Drove it to the car wash and sprayed it as clean as I could to not mess up the camper any more than I knew I was going to. I collapsed my dining table into a workstand and was able to complete the whole build while it rained off and on. During the next dry wave, I rushed outside and reinstalled the motor. After a few cranks of the e-start it fired right up! I cracked the throttle and puff, dead. Lil lean still (No carb choke at all...). Warmed it up for a few and it would open up with the throttle. Did a lap around the trailer park and now I'm cleaning up and writing this. I'm a little worried about the casting on the head. Looks wonky... I hope you can see all the blemishes in the photos. I should have taken a side by side photo of the Airsal 50mm domed piston. Its a full 1mm taller than this one. The piston weighed in at 81g with rings, 50mm piston is 75g with rings. More compression, heavier piston... Sorry crank. Let's see how strong you really are. I forgot to get pictures of all the true measurements. The cylinder mic'd at 51.75 and the piston was 51.6ish milimeters. Best I could do with my crappy mic. I'm anxious to go for a test ride now that it's drying up a little. Here's some pics I was able to snap:            |
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Post by kagetenshi on Jun 5, 2017 20:18:13 GMT -5
Here here! A toast to well-forged parts!
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phatmanxxl
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 484
Location: Missoura
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Post by phatmanxxl on Jun 5, 2017 23:54:55 GMT -5
Outstanding
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 6, 2017 8:19:14 GMT -5
It looks like you've got steps in the ports. Maybe it's just the light. If they are steps, it may be beneficial to blend those areas if you are ever inclined to work on the head at all. Not saying it will reap big rewards, but it shouldn't hurt to blend those areas and they don't look too tough to reach.
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Post by dexameth on Jun 6, 2017 8:38:24 GMT -5
It looks like you've got steps in the ports. Maybe it's just the light. If they are steps, it may be beneficial to blend those areas if you are ever inclined to work on the head at all. Not saying it will reap big rewards, but it shouldn't hurt to blend those areas and they don't look too tough to reach. I was trying to show the casting around the valve itself... Looks as though someone was filling a crappy weld. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 6, 2017 9:36:54 GMT -5
If you ever take the valves out, you're likely to see all sorts of casting and cutting issues in the bowl areas as well. Seems pretty common in Chinese heads from what I've seen.
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Post by greggkinney on Jun 6, 2017 11:58:16 GMT -5
my ssm head was nasty too. lots of sharp slag like aluminium. i used my other bvh instead since it had been cleaned up and the valves lapped. if you look the ssm head and a glixal head both have the gt cast into the front if them. the ssm has ssm stamped on it and the glixal has glixal printed inside but are made by the same company i guess. the glixal seemed to be twice as clean though. have fun breaking her in!!
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Post by dexameth on Jun 6, 2017 12:17:29 GMT -5
my ssm head was nasty too. lots of sharp slag like aluminium. i used my other bvh instead since it had been cleaned up and the valves lapped. if you look the ssm head and a glixal head both have the gt cast into the front if them. the ssm has ssm stamped on it and the glixal has glixal printed inside but are made by the same company i guess. the glixal seemed to be twice as clean though. have fun breaking her in!! I did notice they were almost IDENTICAL. I need to extract that broken exhaust stud out of the Glixal head. Then lap the valves and maybe open the ports a little. I can feel the tug of the few more ccs! |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 6, 2017 15:42:01 GMT -5
Here's some basic port cleanup from my 150 in case it's of any interest. The 50s are tougher because of the smaller ports, but at least you have a little bigger setup. Lots of 4T setup info in that thread if you want to dig a little deeper. 49ccscoot.proboards.com/post/229304/thread |
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Post by greggkinney on Jun 6, 2017 16:04:53 GMT -5
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Post by dexameth on Jun 6, 2017 17:08:05 GMT -5
I wonder how much better these aftermarket clutches really are... I wish I had the funds to try them out! My little "racing" clutch is almost identical to stock and it works great. |
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Post by humanshield on Jun 8, 2017 17:23:30 GMT -5
I could all but guarantee you that if you don't lap the valves in that SSM head, you're gonna have some loss of compression. And that "could" lead to burned valves sooner than expected. I just yesterday repaired a scoot that that happened to.
After a ton of builds, I've learned to never trust the heads from the factory unless you're going with top dollar heads from NCY etc.
And even then I ALWAYS check valves for leaks before installation. Most of them leak badly.
I would say "most" of them have shoddy valve jobs.
Get it right and........
"zoom zoom"
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Post by dexameth on Jun 8, 2017 21:25:36 GMT -5
Weird you say that humanshield... I think I may have a valve problem. Just yesterday it died a block away from home. Thought it was electrical, CDI or plug or coil... But I do get spark with all I've tried. I just got it running and had it warming up at idle. Cracked the throttle to take off and it revved like there was no belt then POP it backfired and died. It'll crank over, feels like it has compression, but won't fire. Yes the belt is there and the CVT is intact. I'm in the dark, upset and over troubleshooting for the night. I might not even try to investigate in the morning, and just ride my bicycle to work. I have Saturday off and if it's not raining I'll do a teardown and see what the issue is. I just got done rebuilding the clutch since I broke a clutch shoe on the pivot they turn on. I think the the extra power was slapping the clutch to much and snapped it. I had a hard time swapping the 2k springs and with many swear words I got them. I even smashed my left ring finger tip with the wrench or clutch while removing the outer nut on the clutch ( I do the wrench on the nut and slam the wrench into the concrete to "impact" it off). It has been a wrenchful couple days and I'm exhausted. I'll take a break tomorrow with Scootie and see what happens Saturday. |
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Post by dexameth on Jun 10, 2017 7:31:15 GMT -5
Alright so I didn't wanna wait. I tore into everything last night after work. Valve train was fine. Carb bowl float was stuck closed so I merely ran out of gas. Tweaked it, made it work. Got everything going, ran amazing! Locked into one of the best wheelies yet, actually had power to lift the front wheel back up if it was trying to drop. Then the THIRD clutch broke, all three now the same exact way. *sigh  |
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Post by dexameth on Jun 10, 2017 8:50:42 GMT -5
Scootie is alive! I reinstalled a stock clutch I had laying around (somehow I aquired 6 of them over the past year). I couldn't install my yellow springs, they were too short from the coil to the end of the spring. I used a yellow contra and a curved torque driver to help hold rpms up since the clutch wants to engage almost instantly.
The launch is pretty good, almost where I want so I can live with it for now. But... I have wheelies at speed! I learned from watching MorphyB YouTube channel and how those guys stand up then throw their weight back. I just tried it and IT WORKS. I need to perfect this now.
It's a beautiful Saturday, I have no work, it's time to Scoot.
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