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Post by tsimi on Jul 2, 2017 18:13:57 GMT -5
I know every scoot can be different but is there some kind of baseline to start with?
Pilot jet?
Main jet?
Needle type?
Needle position?
Cylinder: Malossi MHR Replica AC
Exhaust: Yasuni City 16 (aka. C16.07)
Carburetor: Stage6 Dellorto 21mm (37 pilot/96 main/W7 needle 2nd from top)
Currently running with a slightly modded stock airbox
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Post by oldgeek on Jul 2, 2017 19:40:25 GMT -5
21 or 19? Tell us more about the cylinder and exhaust on this application please.
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Post by tsimi on Jul 2, 2017 19:58:11 GMT -5
Sorry forgot to mention...
Cylinder: Malossi MHR Replica AC
Exhaust: Yasuni City 16 (aka. C16.07)
Carburetor: Stage6 Dellorto 21mm (37 pilot/96 main/W7 needle 2nd from top)
Currently running with a slightly modded stock airbox.
I have some low end issue with this scoot at the moment and I just need to troubleshoot it.
Thought I slap on the UNI filter that I bought long time ago but never got to install it.
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Post by ThomasTPFL on Jul 2, 2017 20:19:04 GMT -5
Seize it then go up 5.
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Post by oldgeek on Jul 2, 2017 20:44:19 GMT -5
That thing should move some air. Hope you have a temp gauge on it.
Pilot 43
Slide 30 or 40 or something in between.
Main 100 or even more.
Needle W6
The PHBG can be difficult to tune well through the entire range, I rarely get everything perfect because changing one component always affects the rest in my experience. Also if you dont have a set of jet gauge or reamers you are PISSING IN THE WIND! The jets are almost NEVER sized as they are stamped, I dont care what brand of jets you buy. You can easily lose your mind trying to get by without them.
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Post by oldgeek on Jul 2, 2017 20:58:35 GMT -5
Another thing I have found contrary to what some people say, adjusting the pilot jet screw WILL affect other stages, if just a little bit. Also you should need to adjust PJ screw and idle screw after most any change you make. Remember screw in = leaner. Screw out = richer. And don't forget to turn the choke off like I do half of the time!  |
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Post by ryan_ott on Jul 2, 2017 21:44:44 GMT -5
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Post by tsimi on Jul 2, 2017 21:56:59 GMT -5
Thanks for the info guys. That is what I was looking for.
I got pilot jets from 30 up to 45 or 50 and main jets from 88 up to 125 so I should be good there. Temp gauge and tacho are installed.
What's the default position for the pilot screw? 1.5 turns out?
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Post by ryan_ott on Jul 2, 2017 22:11:56 GMT -5
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Post by ryan_ott on Jul 2, 2017 22:23:08 GMT -5
Don't forget about slides, these are very tuneable carbs...  |
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Post by spaz12 on Jul 3, 2017 2:14:15 GMT -5
I want to say that with an open filter and 19mm I was in the 120 range for the mj. Myself, I also had decent results with the w7 needle and 40 slide.
If you're having problems with power down low and not because of cvt issues, then I wonder if a 35 slide might help?
I do not miss tuning phbg's, pwk's are so much easier.
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Post by tsimi on Jul 3, 2017 2:37:24 GMT -5
spaz12 not sure that it is still a CVT issue. I swapped clutch springs the other day and now I get decent rpms before the clutch engages but still the lag down low persists. I'll put my old belt back inside once and see what's gonna happen. Maybe the new belt is a bit too wide and not worn enough? If I tried everything that I can think of and it still won't fix it then I drop the engine and take her apart starting with the Reed block and worst case all the way to the cylinder. Could cracked glass fiber reeds be the cause of such thing? I'll swap the belt from new back to old. If not fixed I am gonna clean the carb and swap jets again. If not fixed I'll gonna install the UNI filter and try to tune it further. If not fixed I'll wait for my stuff from maxiscoot (Malossi yellow and Stag6 pink torque springs, Roller Weight tuning kit) If not fixed, drop engine and start to remove intake and reed block evtl. check cylinder and torque down. If not fixed, open cylinder and check piston, piston rings and so on.... I agree PHBG are too complicated. You simply can do too much on them. I have a 28mm PWK but that would be a bit overkill on my setup. ...or maybe not? 
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Post by spaz12 on Jul 3, 2017 2:51:36 GMT -5
Chipped reeds will make it more difficult to start and sometimes you'll see more oil in the air box from mixture being pushed back through. A big enough chip/break and it just run terrible, if at all.
Since it's a new belt I would see what happens with the older one just to rule it out.
Another thing is a compression check... That cylinder has gone much further then I ever thought it would, and just maybe you're having compression issues. Hopefully not, but sadly it's possible.
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Post by tsimi on Jul 3, 2017 4:28:03 GMT -5
spaz12OK, that sounds interesting. I have more oil inside the airbox and all around the carb. It wasn't starting always when temps were lower but now in this heat I don't even need to pull the choke. I'll remove that intake once and look at the reed block after I tested the old belt. Yeah, I might do a compression check once just to rule that out. You think it might be the end for that cylinder? Oh boy, I hope not since I don't want to spent any money for this engine anymore then I have already.
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Post by tsimi on Jul 3, 2017 4:30:08 GMT -5
I have the following jets available. (I just write this here for own reference in the future)
Pilot jets
50, 45, 42, 40, 38, 37, 30
Main jets
125, 120, 118, 112, 110, 108, 105, 102, 100, 98, 96, 95, 94, 93, 92, 90, 75
Slides
#30 and #40
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