Decent price for 2t 90?

[catchacuda]

Hey, I'm simply asking for opinions on what a reasonable price to pay for a 90cc minarelli style engine would be?

Talking used, running engine. I see 2 from atvs, one $200 shipped on the bay. Another with electronics and carb- bidding starts at $70 (or buy it now for $115) + 96.78 shipping. Are the sellers asking too much?

I believe the 1 source for them new still has customers waiting and waiting?

Just want one in the future to build up. No idea yet what it could end up in (unicycle?)

[moofus02]

I bought a Zuma motor that was built 54x45 with carb, up gears and over range variator for 300 shipped. A long case clone 45 crank 52 cylinder with tg next r100 pipe and a short 54 8 port cylinder with a holed piston for 2 or 3 I don't remember. Bought a set of adly motto 90 cases for 60 and bought a complete motto 90 adly for 150 shipped. I've got 4 or 5 big motors now and lots of extra cylinders and cranks. The atv motors are nice and short case clone gears drop right in. Just need the cvt cover for them and I haven't found an over range belt for them yet but the pulleys fit. If you watch you should be able to source one for 150 to 300 shipped

[ryan_ott]

Here's a decent deal:
www.ebay.com/itm/272799946121

Under $200 your doing pretty good. You can check your local CL ads and you may find a somewhat complete atv for not much more. I paid $300 for my Dinli. You could build your 50 to a 90 by cutting the cases and replacing the crank and cylinder. There are other options depending on how much work you want to do.

Keep in mind when buying on the bay realistically shipping shouldn't be over $50. $30-40 non usps is a more realistic amount.

[AtariGuy]

To your doorstep, i would expect no more than $250 for a basic 90. If they put extras on, then you could go higher. Theres a built stage 6 top end 2t mina engine for sale in the for sale section,

49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/19288/time-make-room

Otherwise play the patience game, get a polaris sportsman case, and build it with your own top shelf goodies. Thats where i'm at, looking for a fair price on matched cpi longcase stripped cases. If i'm lucky, i could have one setup and running by april? Your call

[jdl357]

What tools would you need to cut a 50cc case to fit a 90cc cylinder? Can it be done by an amateur?

[AtariGuy]

49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/10392/cutting-cases-accept-cranks-matching

Pics are down on the first couple examples of the thread, but the second half pics are there. it takes a dremel, a handful of carbide bits, sanding drum bits, a lot (excessive) amount of time and patience, and a light touch. Its not recommended to chop it out in anything less than a couple hours, take your time.

[moofus02]

Long or short case? The adly are long case Polaris are short. The motor in the classified section is a good running low mile build. It's a long case with the good gears. He had a long case with good gears built into a 103 that he just sold. That was under 3 shipped Dave is a good guy to deal with

[jdl357]

Mine is a long case minarelli that I'm thinking of going to 90.

[catchacuda]

Thanks for the input from everyone! I have no preference long or short case, just want something I can tear down, and modify myself. Before I can justify buying one I need to donate to this forum, it's been an invaluable tool & really got me interested in small engines.

[ryan_ott]

Be careful they are very addictive. I laid hands on my first scoot engine 15 years ago. I've turned by back a few times but I keep coming back. They are worse then the strongest drug, very addictive! Look around there is tons of great info buried within these pages.

[AtariGuy]

Long and short is actually a very big decision. With a short case, you're stuck with a 10 inch rim. If you ever plan to build a 50+mph driver, you want a 12-13 inch wheel. Its like an upgear plus stability. I wish i had a longcase - so it really is important to consider. Just be aware that changing the gearing in a longcase can be a little more costly. Imo, its worth it.

Options, you can go all out and get a european yamaha aerox/aprilia sr50 engine. Longcase plus rear disk brakes. Or an adly longcase if you want to upgear for cheap. Its like a shortcase but stretched out (read, longer belt). Downside to adly, you won't have much luck with overrange setups because nobody can find a proper belt that will take advantage of them. Or just go middle of the road and get the prebuilt plug n play jog 90 longcase engine from scrappy and wait awhile for them to source and ship it. Comes with a basic guarantee that if its buggered, they'll help you get it fixed up. 499+shipping. Otherwise, a vento triton style is a basic longcase 50, drum brakes.

Then theres the malossi c-one/rc-one... brute force racing cases... be prepared for a lot of money to disappear, a lot of precision setup, and an insanely fast ride.

[90GTVert]

I'd prefer long case for 90cc stuff, unless you don't really care about cruising far. I've owned a 96cc Keeway Venus (short case, 10" wheels) and I don't even know how many long case 90 setups in my Tritons (12" wheels).

Short cases are typically in small frame/short wheelbase scoots. They aren't as stable at speed as the bigger scoots, but I've still rode 200+ miles in a day with 50MPH cruising. It's doable, the large frame just makes it a little more pleasant experience IMO. The real fun part about the small frame is that they are more likely to be wheelie monsters. My 96cc was very mild and I just had a cheap CVT setup (HOCA variator, stock everything else), and it was capable of flipping itself over if I caught it at the right point and had I not let off/braked. I was using stock 49cc gears, not the 8.8:1 gears that ATV stuff may have.

The bigger scoots with longer wheelbases can wheelie with a strong setup, but none of mine have had the 1-wheeled potential with just a throttle twist that could compare with the smaller scoot. The stability from the length and wheel size makes long range riding nice, or even short bursts of speed less sketchy. Plus the larger frames usually have more room for the rider.

You can get an over range CVT setup for short and long case engines, as long as it's the common generic long case and not the Adly style. Adly uses what is essentially a stretched short case. It has a short case gearbox, but the case is longer between the front and rear pulleys (crank and primary drive shaft). That means it needs a long belt, that's harder to find and more expensive even for a standard belt (get Bando if you need one). There is no over range belt for it, to my knowledge, and that's the big drawback of an Adly case to me. The OR kit that I use from Malossi has been far superior to standard CVT setups that I've used. It's good for performance, but more importantly for me it has been reliable. I never had much trouble till 10,000 miles or so. I did have a rear pulley bearing problem earlier, but I also subjected it to failing gearboxes and lots of vibrations that normally wouldn't occur. 10,000 miles is a long time to not need to replace parts on these small scoots from what I've experienced, so I've been hooked on the OR. I once saw it as expensive and for racing only, but now I look at it as worth the cash if you plan to ride much. My only gripe with it is related to it being a racing setup. It really doesn't want to come in at low revs, regardless of any clutch setup I've tried. The variator itself bypasses low RPM. That means you won't be feeling the low rev grunt that some 90s are capable of, but they will get off the line in a hurry regardless. You may also find yourself only buying the heaviest (10g) 19x15 DrPulley sliders and filling them with stuff to make them heavy enough if you are building a mild/sport 90 like mine tend to be.

My Chinese long cases have had a lot of gearbox issues. I only had 2 short case Minarellis, and they didn't have that trouble. I put a lot of miles on my 96cc Venus and did a lot of stupid stuff with it, and never found large quantities of glitter in my gear oil or anything like that. Could be luck, could be a better setup. What I ended up doing for the long case was to buy a primary drive shaft out of an E-Ton 2T scooter. They have a nub on the end of the primary drive shaft that allows it to be supported by another bearing in the small case half, instead of just the bearing in the large case half. Many scoots without this 3rd support have a machined seat ready for another bearing, so that part is easy enough. The bad news there is (AFAIK) the E-Ton stuff was only available with deep gears (13.5:1), so you can't use the nice stock 10.1:1 gear set that some long cases come with (good for top speed). What you can do is buy Stage 6 secondary gears and end up right around 11:1 final drive ratio, which still works quite well. It costs a bit to get that stuff ($150-ish), but it has made mine more reliable.

I see the common long case as more valuable, because they're harder to find and can use an OR kit with a proper OR belt. The Adly style cases are easier to find, but if you're set on (or at least seriously considering) and OR kit, it's not a great choice unless you can figure out a belt that will work. The short cases are abundant, at least as far as 90cc 2Ts are concerned, thanks to youth ATVs, and should be the cheapest option.

Of course there's also the option of cutting 49cc cases to accept a big crank and big bore.

[niz76]

I've always liked the idea of buying a 90cc 2t quad for the 90cc engine, swapping a standard 49cc engine back into it, and then re-selling it. I've contemplated doing this a few times now but have never actually done it. It seems like a decent way to get a 90cc for cheap or possibly even make a profit (which sometimes helps to internally justify spending $$ on go fast goodies )