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Post by lostforawhile on Oct 10, 2017 21:38:29 GMT -5
since the wires in my CDI harness were iffy, I went ahead and moved it, This moves the wires from the stator right next to the CDI itself .I cut off the original harness, other then tying into the kill switch wire, then drilled and tapped the frame for a new ground point, for the CDI and coil grounds. One other thing I did , and you might want to do, is remove the battery to start solenoid wire, and loom it, mine was zip tied right to the frame over sharp metal. It's crimped terribly, so I'll end up making a better one, and changing the solenoid to a weatherproof ford type solenoid , I'm still waiting on my Suzuki coil to get here.     |
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Post by lostforawhile on Oct 10, 2017 22:34:50 GMT -5
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Post by lostforawhile on Oct 10, 2017 22:48:20 GMT -5
what I did was remove the battery box (which was full of water, no drain holes?) so I could cut the cdi harness back enough to get a good pigtail, I used a high quality spade to tie into the kill switch wire, then ran a wire in loom from the CDI box to it, and soldered it at the pigtail, I used spades on the CDI harness for trigger signal and voltage in, and plugged them right into the stator harness, I soldered longer leads onto the pigtail for ground and for voltage to the coil, then drilled and tapped the frame, for a new solid ground point. I'm just waiting on my coil. I got the new CDI box in today, I noticed that it looks like a regular AC box, but is much heavier, even though it has the same common dimensions
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Post by FrankenMech on Oct 11, 2017 22:00:30 GMT -5
I use a Lexan shelf above my engine for my CDI and hot spare that locates the CDI approximately where yours is. I use blue painters tape to keep the spare CDI connector clean.
There are different sizes for those bullet connectors which may have been your problem.
Drain holes are a good thing. Watch for holes in the frame which admit water then trap it below.
I also installed a main ground stud near the engine. I also have one up front near the handlebars and my battery.
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Post by lostforawhile on Oct 11, 2017 22:48:34 GMT -5
I use a Lexan shelf above my engine for my CDI and hot spare that locates the CDI approximately where yours is. I use blue painters tape to keep the spare CDI connector clean. There are different sizes for those bullet connectors which may have been your problem. Drain holes are a good thing. Watch for holes in the frame which admit water then trap it below. I also installed a main ground stud near the engine. I also have one up front near the handlebars and my battery. these were factory bullet connectors, they were just cheap Chinese junk, the kind of bad bullet connectors you get in boxes of assorted electrical connectors, at Harbor Crap. I have spark now, but I'e been through everything on this bike, and it still won't even fire once. Not even with the kick starter, I put a plug in the lead wire, and used an alligator clip to ground it, and i get regular spark when cranking, I have fuel in the engine, I have compression, but it just won't fire. I've checked valve clearance, I have compression, I have fuel, I have spark, but it refuses to fire. Oh the suzuki coil works great and fits almost like factory, the only thing you need to do, is trim off the little rubber lip on the bottom of the boot, it bolted to the factory location with a 10mm bolt, I had to flatten the rounded top of the factory bracket slightly, for clearance, but it bolted right up. The suzuki coil grounds through it's frame, and only requires a connection to one spade connector from the CDI. |
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Post by FrankenMech on Oct 12, 2017 3:44:42 GMT -5
Have you checked the ignition timing and the accuracy of the TDC mark? Make sure you ground the CDI. Open up the gap on your test plug to 0.075" or more for testing at atmospheric pressure. It is much easier to jump the gap at atmospheric pressure than it is at the high combustion chamber pressure. www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/basic_knowledge/spark/conditions.htmlwww.briskusa.com/spark_plug_gap_spark_plug_gap_charten.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plugThere are spark voltage test devices that are calibrated in voltage at atmospheric pressure used to test ignition systems. They are a simple device with a threaded gap adjustment. You can find them at auto parts stores. You should have 20-30,000 volts available to ignite your mixture. If you have a high voltage breakdown, in your wires or plug, the spark may not jump the plug gap during compression. The spark may find 'alternative' paths to ground. Have you tried manually choking the engine to enrich the fuel mix? Can you smell gas in the exhaust? Is the throttle opening appropriate? My Chinese bullet connectors on my scoot work perfectly. So do the mating China connectors I got in a terminal assortment on ebay. I don't buy electrical terminals at HF. |
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Post by lostforawhile on Oct 12, 2017 5:38:30 GMT -5
Have you checked the ignition timing and the accuracy of the TDC mark? Make sure you ground the CDI. Open up the gap on your test plug to 0.075" or more for testing at atmospheric pressure. It is much easier to jump the gap at atmospheric pressure than it is at the high combustion chamber pressure. www.globaldenso.com/en/products/aftermarket/plug/basic_knowledge/spark/conditions.htmlwww.briskusa.com/spark_plug_gap_spark_plug_gap_charten.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plugThere are spark voltage test devices that are calibrated in voltage at atmospheric pressure used to test ignition systems. They are a simple device with a threaded gap adjustment. You can find them at auto parts stores. You should have 20-30,000 volts available to ignite your mixture. If you have a high voltage breakdown, in your wires or plug, the spark may not jump the plug gap during compression. The spark may find 'alternative' paths to ground. Have you tried manually choking the engine to enrich the fuel mix? Can you smell gas in the exhaust? Is the throttle opening appropriate? My Chinese bullet connectors on my scoot work perfectly. So do the mating China connectors I got in a terminal assortment on ebay. I don't buy electrical terminals at HF. the CDI has it's own ground, I drilled and tapped into the frame to make sure it has a good ground, there is fuel making it into the cylinder, it's not even trying to start. it has a brand new plug, the old plug was good then it started misfiring before I replaced the CDI and coil, so it fouled out. the only thing I can come up with is the charge coil is weak, if I test the coil unloaded while cranking, I get 79 volts, if I connect the CDI I get 30 volts while cranking |
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Post by tortoise2 on Oct 12, 2017 10:47:17 GMT -5
No verification response to FrankenMech suggestion? Insert a probe into sparkplug hole, position piston at TDC, observe if flywheel T-mark is aligned with the case point. What is the actual cylinder compression PSI? Posting supplemental threads on the same issue segments the discussion and exploits others . . by not knowing which suggestions have already been offered! |
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Post by lostforawhile on Oct 12, 2017 11:14:52 GMT -5
I've already checked timing it's fine, I have 115 psi compression, I've checked the valves. It was running when I shut it off,but was developing a bad intermittent misfire. I had no spark until I moved and replaced the cdi and coil, now I have spark, with a grounded plug, so I know the trigger is good, I can also measure trigger voltage, the other reason I suspect the stator, is I had to start using the kickstart, which of course spins the engine faster, allowing a higher cranking voltage
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Post by lostforawhile on Oct 12, 2017 11:19:26 GMT -5
One of older posts I had shown 79 volts cranking, I just searched, now I have 30, so I may have solved this mystery, I did find a stator on amazon, mine is a five wire,floating ground, 8 coil with 2 charging coils, I suspect one charging coil shorted,cutting my voltage in half
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Post by lostforawhile on Oct 12, 2017 11:21:53 GMT -5
New stator, I'll take reference measurements of voltage and resistance, for future diagnostics, for reference purposes this is actually a yiben scout,just sold under jm star, the expensive factory cd I got,by the way, seems to function fine,none of the other cdi units I had bought would even give me sa spark, I'm actually really good at automotive electrical, so it's a head scratcher
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