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Post by badluna on Oct 28, 2017 10:57:03 GMT -5
imgur.com/a/vKfP3Why wouldnt this work? S Edit: why not go further. Why not get a motor hooked up to the vac line to control leakage via the o2 sensor and tac? Is that a thing?
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Post by jackrides on Oct 28, 2017 11:02:23 GMT -5
Any more info avail?
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Post by badluna on Oct 28, 2017 11:23:30 GMT -5
Just trying to tune my scooter with out making laps and etc. (Its impossible to do here in nyc)
So I rather just tune it as best I can on the bench and ride with it a little to make sure its correct.
If its only going to cost me $15 in stuff (and I have a multineter so I don't even need the voltmeter) why shouldnt I?
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Post by 90GTVert on Oct 30, 2017 8:37:51 GMT -5
For the price, I'd say give it a shot if you're interested in it. You aren't out much even if it's a total flop, as long as you can weld the bung in yourself.
I've personally owned 1 narrow band setup from Auto Meter used on a car and it was mostly worthless unless it was way rich or way lean. For example, the only time I actually saw it fluttering around solely in the rich side was when I first got my turbo on with new injectors and it was so rich that I was getting gas in my oil and puffing black on acceleration. Most of the time it fluttered back and forth providing me with nothing useful. I've installed one for someone else as well and it did the same, again on a car, not a scoot. No experience with a narrow band on a scoot.
I have a wideband on my TaoTao and had a couple on my Mustang. They work and they're a badass tuning tool. I can't tell you how much tuning time the wideband saves. I don't bother with any tuning on the bench other than idle, because I want to know what it does under load in use and that's different than free-revving. Still, it takes little time to get it right. Watch the wideband and depending how far off it is from where I'd like it, I change jet sizes. Check again. Readjust if needed. It's usually right within a couple of swaps and quick runs, and there isn't the second guessing that sometimes occurs without it. Mine is always installed, not just for tuning. That way I can always easily monitor it and it's nice if there's a problem. All I have to do is look down to see if I'm rich or lean or if the issue doesn't appear to be mixture related. Helps you rule things out quickly.
I do still advise that your first tune is done with a trial and error method noting speed, RPM, etc... on multiple passes with multiple jets. Note the reading of the gauge/sensor, but make your decision of what's right without that info. Use speed/RPM data and whatever notes you took to decide on the jet. Then see if what you found that way aligns with what you would expect the o2 to show. If it does, then you should be able to trust the sensor/gauge to help keep you in tune. Just FYI, max power is probably something like 13-13.5:1 in most cases, but it can vary by application. For our air cooled engines, it's best to keep them more like 12.5-13:1 because we need the additional fuel for cooling. My wideband does bounce around a lot, but it bounces in a narrow range, nothing like what I've seen on narrow band o2 setups where I have no clue what's going on. Mine may bounce from say 12.5 to 13.5 regularly, but that's fine with me. In a car the exact same setup was much more stable with readings, but I don't need to tune to the exact decimal and even if I did it would change with weather and such anyway.
If you do try any sort of o2, please let us know how it turns out for you.
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Post by badluna on Nov 7, 2017 21:35:57 GMT -5
Ok.
I got my O2 sensor and my bung should be coming in.
i am welding it in my self. (I also purchased a spark plug with the same threads so if this o2 sensor business goes no where maybe i can blow fire out of my tail pipe.
I figured if i let the thing run for 20 minutes ill get the most stable temperature and there for a better idea. IDK. i also have 2 cheap spark plugs i can use to read.
Is there any way to smooth out the signal?
Maybe a capacitor?
Right now im still trying to figure out what is wrong with my scooter.
Replaced the: Carb Stator CDI igniter sensor Spark Plug
Compression test was good
Tried various jets. i cant figure out why this thing wont run.
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Post by benji on Nov 7, 2017 22:33:18 GMT -5
I also purchased a spark plug with the same threads so if this o2 sensor business goes no where maybe i can blow fire out of my tail pipe. Best. Idea. Ever.
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Post by badluna on Nov 7, 2017 23:11:58 GMT -5
Lol yeah. Im buying a switch with a red button and a switch so i can divert the CDI signal to the second ignition coil.
its going to be awesome and crazy illegal
Edit: a switch and a relay
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Post by catchacuda on Nov 9, 2017 20:07:34 GMT -5
imgur.com/a/vKfP3Why wouldnt this work? S Edit: why not go further. Why not get a motor hooked up to the vac line to control leakage via the o2 sensor and tac? Is that a thing? Im sorry, just what are you doing with the motor and controlling leakage?
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Post by badluna on Nov 9, 2017 20:11:58 GMT -5
Some kind of auto adjustment but it was a stupid idea.
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