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Post by pete130 on Dec 21, 2017 1:35:57 GMT -5
Heres a look at how good the gaskets and ports line up with BBK no need to grind anything there lol Not bad for a Japanese KN
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Post by pete130 on Dec 21, 2017 1:36:49 GMT -5
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Post by Lucass2T on Dec 22, 2017 3:09:38 GMT -5
Hey Pete what brand and type of cylinder you got there? I've never heard of nor seen bridged port cylinders made for minarelli 90 and 100 engines! So im really curious who makes this cylinder.
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Post by pete130 on Dec 22, 2017 23:06:41 GMT -5
I looked to see if there needed any grinding to gasket and port match motor and look great out of box happy with that. Still working on bottom end having a little trouble getting to slide togeather with the hot cold method, have got bearings onto crank without a problem. i will take my time dont want to get to the pound on with a hammer. on paper timming is looking ok 190ex and 130tran 30blowbown im thinking this should have a little grunt with 132cc not a rocket but fun i would be happy with 10000-10500rpm and about 16-18hp not sure on taque but with stroker crank hoping it will we noticeable motor had been treated badly by someone that thought they new everything lol
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Post by pitobread on Dec 22, 2017 23:23:16 GMT -5
Its gotta be pretty hot, I have an electric space heater and a electric heat gun I lay the cases on the heater and leave it for 10-20 minutes then use the heat gun.
I have to pick the cases up with welding gloves. I don't even freeze the crank.
I forget what the actual growth is but it is around 0.00001 per degree for aluminum if you wanna actually measure and figure out what temperature you actually need to hit (plus probably a 15% margin of error)
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Post by AtariGuy on Dec 23, 2017 0:05:33 GMT -5
I baked my cases in the oven at 350F. If you got an ol lady, you may want to send her to her mothers or a spa day before you try that lol or deal with the wrath of "omg you did WHAT with my oven?"
Just keep in mind, when you heat the cases with the installed bearings to drop the crank in, you may have to use a rubber mallet to center your crank. Took me a few taps to get it right. First was not hard enough, second shifted it too far. The crank should be able to spin with near zero resistance when you get it set. Good luck!
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Post by pete130 on Dec 24, 2017 8:49:19 GMT -5
Finaly got bottom end done had a lot of trouble tryed every way i knew of buy went back to my old ways tools just use the right ones heated bearings onto crank went very well and just pulled all into case with crank install tool works great i was thinking to much into it when i wanted to do that way to start but seeing people do it so quick with heat i tryed and i died ha ha heres the first case It does sit close to case think iys at least .8-1mm should be ok and rod misses easy i think i may have got away with but better to be safe than have to rebuild later Every thing matched up great crank spun very free but tighted up when i did seals but still spins fine But the piston still doesnt sit were it should on paper cant work it out little better than when i did with dummie bearing looking like i havr to get barrel machined $220 not sure what to do cant just drop ports would be to easy to damage lining
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Post by vlatx on Dec 24, 2017 8:53:49 GMT -5
check the sqush and if you have space and does not change the compresion ratio too much cut the cylinder from the botom.
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Post by pete130 on Dec 28, 2017 1:03:57 GMT -5
Thats whay im thinking is my only real option ive worked out were im going wrong with this kit i had forgoten about the 4mm recesed head and when you take that off the port map its perfect for 47.6mm stroke so ive gone with 4.6mm extra stroke so im going past bottom of ports my 1.8mm and im 2.3mm into the 4mm extra barrel length so im 1.7mm from deak with this crank its in now and it was my first got it in easy in the end lol so i need to lower barrel to bottom of ports and it will have no deak hight fine by me have race head to suit so i would be getting 190ex 130tran and 30 blow down 132cc with 32mm power jet should go ok im hoping need a great pipe to get to realy go
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Post by pete130 on Dec 28, 2017 1:05:06 GMT -5
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Post by pete130 on Jan 9, 2018 5:56:54 GMT -5
Well small update been painting lol Not to bad for spray can Started to do wheels front came out great but had a large run waiting till moring sand and quick touch up
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Post by pete130 on Jan 17, 2018 22:49:18 GMT -5
Well ive started to do my owe paint job thinking of the money i can spend on motor parts allways want more as we all do Only 2 undercoats plastic fill, and one bace coat 2000 girt sand to get out any bad spots ready for final coat and clear & polishing have got some blue crome spray paint have seen jobs done with and looks great and at over $100 per piece of plastic im hopeing ti get it done for around $20 a piece after all the gear is bought lots of wet and dry girt from 400-2000 and if spraying plastic you realy meed to use plastics undercoat i like the fill undefcoat goes in thick drys in 30seconds and u can wet&dry sand easy make a big diffrence in end job compared to not useing paint will fall off quick read directions and read up on others mistakes dont make your own
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Post by pete130 on Feb 17, 2018 22:43:14 GMT -5
Well not much has been happing expect painting slow very slow finaly put barrel in to be machined cant want to get back cant deside on color floor gliss white plastics heave blue flaje blue or just the blue I do lime the blue flake and have worked out how to spray with lighter blue bace cant beside
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Post by pete130 on Feb 27, 2018 4:11:29 GMT -5
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Post by pete130 on Apr 5, 2018 17:16:21 GMT -5
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