06jog
Scoot Member
2006 Yamaha Jog
Posts: 86 
Location: Sydney
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Post by 06jog on Jan 20, 2018 4:53:03 GMT -5
Hi
I have just installed a Malossi Sports 70cc BBK on my Jog. I have the stock carb doing the best it can with a main jet upgrade to 80mj. Just wanting to know where to from here. I am getting a top speed of 80km/hr on flat road and getting up hills is a lot easier.
Do I need to change my contra spring to the white one that came with the Malossi Multi Varator. I am thinking of changing the clutch springs as the clutch engages at about 4500rpm and the bike feels like it starts to make good power at 7500rpm.
I am looking to change the car is to a 19mm Dellorto at some point and will ask again for suggested start point set up when the time comes.
Thank you
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Post by 90GTVert on Jan 20, 2018 6:10:57 GMT -5
You don't have to use the Malossi spring as long as you can get it into a good state of tune with what you've got.
Sounds like a good idea to go over the CVT tune and finish that, unless you definitely want more right now. In that case, consider a tuned pipe and the carb. Then do the CVT and carb tuning.
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Post by moofus02 on Jan 20, 2018 6:28:18 GMT -5
I use the lightest contra spring I can that doesn't slip the belt. Tune the cvt to get the motor at the rpm it is making power. Stiffer clutch springs will really help the take off. You will want to check with the belt cover off to see if the cvt is shifting before the clutch grabs. Ideally you want the clutch to grab before the cvt shifts that way you are in the lowest gear. DO NOT RIDE WITH BELT COVER OFF! !!!!! It is part of the structural strength of the motor and you could break it in half if you do. A 19mm phgb is a great carb. Will fit the stock air box and you can use a cable operated choke on them. Treatland.tv carries all the parts plus the 36mm airbox adapter. Are you still using the stock pipe? What rpm are you seeing at 80kph?
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06jog
Scoot Member
2006 Yamaha Jog
Posts: 86
Location: Sydney
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Post by 06jog on Jan 21, 2018 0:34:26 GMT -5
I have a Yasuni z exhaust. not sure of the RPM at 80Km. I think it revs to about 9500rpm. I definitely need to increase the rpms at take off, which may mean I need to change to the stronger contra if it shifts early. So I can run the engine with the cover off to check if it shifting before clutch but not ride it that way. Is that what your saying? I use the lightest contra spring I can that doesn't slip the belt. Tune the cvt to get the motor at the rpm it is making power. Stiffer clutch springs will really help the take off. You will want to check with the belt cover off to see if the cvt is shifting before the clutch grabs. Ideally you want the clutch to grab before the cvt shifts that way you are in the lowest gear. DO NOT RIDE WITH BELT COVER OFF! !!!!! It is part of the structural strength of the motor and you could break it in half if you do. A 19mm phgb is a great carb. Will fit the stock air box and you can use a cable operated choke on them. Treatland.tv carries all the parts plus the 36mm airbox adapter. Are you still using the stock pipe? What rpm are you seeing at 80kph? |
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Post by moofus02 on Jan 21, 2018 1:03:38 GMT -5
I run mine on the stand with the cover off. Hold a little brake and Rev it to see if the clutch grabs before the cvt starts to shift. Then I put the cover back on to test ride
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Post by moofus02 on Jan 21, 2018 1:28:11 GMT -5
I tune with roller weights and clutch springs. You go with weights that keep the cvt shifting at rpm it makes the most torque or power, lighter weights and clutch springs should do that. Stiff contra springs are a pain but will raise rpm like lighter weights
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Post by repherence2 on Feb 12, 2018 20:58:56 GMT -5
A stiff contra spring set up is really fun to ride, especially going up hills or coming out of turns and being able to get on the throttle, but the maintenance sucks. Roller weights begin to flat spot and the belt wears a lot faster too. I'm pretty sure the CVT as a whole runs hotter as well.
I've tried all of the NCY contra springs. The red spring (stiffest) was fun, but too much wear on the rollers and belt. The black spring (softest) was too soft for my liking in regards to downshifting. I currently run the yellow spring (medium) because it is the best trade off for me, and I don't flat spot the roller weights anymore. The yellow spring doesn't pull as hard up long broad hills/slopes but it I'd rather not have to change out belts and rollers a lot.
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 13, 2018 12:20:42 GMT -5
When I first got my first scooter, I used to tune with contra springs. I didn't find rollers lighter than 4g easily at the time, but I found blue (1000RPM), yellow (1500RPM), and red (2000RPM) MRP contra springs. I'd swap in the red one to play around in town and the blue one for day to day riding. The stiff spring would make it really snappy and rev happy, and kill top end because it over-revved. The blue spring was the best all around, the way I'd actually want to ride a scoot most of the time. I thought this was the way to tune.
As time progressed and I tried more parts and tuned a lot, I quit using contra springs for tuning... sort of. I keep a spring in there with enough pressure to keep the belt from slipping or if I can't come up with rollers light enough to raise RPM enough with a full set installed. Otherwise, I don't swap them around constantly. I can get a good tune this way and have no need for the high pressures of very stiff contra springs. Most of the stuff I use is roughly equivalent to a 1000RPM spring. Even if not required, I do often swap to these so I have something that I can replace with the same part if desired since stock Chinese springs can vary greatly.
I try to question my own thinking and experience on occasion though, because I regularly hear people exalting the stiffest contra springs. Rather than assume I'm always correct, I have tried on multiple occasions to get something from the stiff springs that I can't get out of lighter weights with a softer spring. Aside from inconvenience of service, I can't seem to get anything extra from them.
Rather than just tell you they work fine for me, here are two quick vids of T2 using the softest contra springs I have that will fit on the TD without binding so you can see/hear for yourself if you can get good response without brute contra springs. Note, I'm 300 pounds so you might as well say my scooter thinks it's on a hill all of the time. lol
There's a lot to a CVT, and it sure isn't all about the stiffness of the contra spring used IMO.
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Post by moofus02 on Feb 13, 2018 13:05:47 GMT -5
I've got a stock spring in my Zuma with a straight grove TD. Rpm drop when i let off and climb when i get back on it never had a problem with it not shifting down on hills, it always stays close to the tune rpm at WFO throttle
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Post by benji on Feb 13, 2018 20:31:14 GMT -5
I put the malossi OR on my zuma w a s6 pro-rep pipe,and I figured the red spring it came with would work fine. It did, but when I swapped to a yellow it matched the cylinder/pipe much better, and shifts a little better than the red even tho it shifted great with the red contra before, it's just 'smoother' now.
Although I've seen a couple of stock Honda's come with red contras. Everything else stock, like the dealer or some local shop put em in.
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