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Post by magoconnor on Feb 9, 2018 19:06:30 GMT -5
Hello.
I'm thinking about getting some milling done on my new BVH before I install it.
Can someone tell me how much I can shaved off and still be on the safe side.
In MM would be nice.
Also could I achieve the same result with just using a sealant instead of the base gasket?
The combustion chamber is 47 mm. Gy6.
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Post by mrhooper on Feb 10, 2018 4:24:31 GMT -5
1 then check squish band clearance .
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 10, 2018 8:49:32 GMT -5
If you have a machine shop mill it, you can take off a very precise amount... exactly what you want removed. If you take out the base gasket and use a sealant, that's fine too but you get what you get. Either way, take the time and do the checks of current clearances first. Don't guess at it. There have been plenty say 0.010" or 0.015" (~0.25-0.38mm) is safe enough, but if you're gonna do it then put in the effort and do it right. If you guess and clearances aren't sufficient, there goes the engine and you'll have to do more work and buy more parts so it won't save you a lot of time. Ideally, I'd like to see compression, squish, and piston to valve clearance checked before you decide on anything. At very least, squish.
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 10, 2018 14:25:01 GMT -5
Ok thanks.
If I was to use a sealant instead of a paper gasket. How much should I use? Have you got any pictures?
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Post by jackrides on Feb 10, 2018 15:43:51 GMT -5
Any sealant strong enough to last will probably make it really hard to remove the cylinder. What is your compression in pounds?
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 10, 2018 17:35:07 GMT -5
If you use a sealant, you use a thin coating. If you use a bunch of it, then it squeezes out all over the place and makes a mess. Think about two mostly flat surfaces held against each other by torque from the fasteners and you can imagine that large quantities of sealer would do you no good. I don't think I have any pics handy, but you're smearing it on thin rather than making a bead or anything like that.
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 10, 2018 19:53:34 GMT -5
Ok thanks.
Will it be really hard to remove the cylinder when it's installed with a sealant ?
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 11, 2018 2:02:06 GMT -5
I will be using a silicone based sealant, that can take up to around 250 degrees (short burst to 325 degrees)
It is also oil and gasoline resistant. And it says on the package it will stay rubbery and not crack.
Will this work?
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 11, 2018 7:35:40 GMT -5
Sounds like that sealant could work. Common sealants here that are used are Permatex Ultra Grey, Ultra Black, or Motoseal and all of those are good to at least 350F.
They aren't usually that tough to get off, but it shouldn't slide right off either. Mostly it can be more trouble to clean up the case and base of the cylinder after sealant is used, but hopefully if you get it right it won't need to come apart that often. You should be doing mock-ups before final assembly to do your clearance checks, so don't use any sealants till it's ready to go together and stay together.
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Post by magoconnor on Feb 11, 2018 10:47:37 GMT -5
Cool.
Did you put sealant on both surfaces ( Engine and cylinder ) ?
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Post by 90GTVert on Feb 11, 2018 12:08:36 GMT -5
Follow instructions on whatever sealant you use.
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