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Post by magoconnor on Feb 25, 2018 20:39:09 GMT -5
Hello.
How long would it be advised to run on mineral oil? (during break-in)
I've changed the oil a few times, And so far I've gone about 400 km.
Will it be okay to switch to synthetic ?
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Post by lostforawhile on Feb 25, 2018 22:18:00 GMT -5
not sure what that is in miles, but it's 500 miles if you want to convert
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Post by KSR Moto on Feb 26, 2018 2:20:42 GMT -5
I used semi synthetic oil for break-in,and changed it after 200km, my engine has never been rebuild and it has total of 7430km
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Post by KSR Moto on Feb 26, 2018 2:24:24 GMT -5
Break in 200km (semi synthetic oil)
1st oil change after 500(full synthetic)
2nd oil change 1500(full synthetic)
Other oil changes every 1000km
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Feb 27, 2018 17:13:40 GMT -5
400km is about 240 miles. You guys want to baby these things. They don't need it, and should do fine with regular oil oil. Ball bearings and forced cooling should keep the temperature within good limits. Unless you drive through Death Valley at noon, you'll shouldn't ever see the temperatures get to where they'll cook the oil.
From memory, the youtubes by 90gt seem to indicate oil temps in the low 200's which is fine. Synthetic only needed for quick flow on startup, but not really for ball bearing engines, and to prevent coking(cooking) at high temperatures which were beyond natural mineral oil capacity when turbine engines were being developed.
Recip single cylinder forced air cooled don't need the extra temperature limit width synthetic provides. But this is my opinion. I think I work my Kohler harder than a 139QMB, mowing at full speed for hours at a time with no letup. It has lasted since the early 1990's so far without problem. (but don't tell it I squealed on it)
tom
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Post by jackrides on Feb 27, 2018 18:00:31 GMT -5
After break in and 2 reg oil changes , I went to synthetic for lower friction in engine (less wear, better gas mileage, longer between changes). I'm at 8,ooo miles with no compression loss.
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Mar 4, 2018 16:53:06 GMT -5
I have Vapor speedo with plug temperature sensor, and set warning threshold to 300 degrees, danger threshold 350. The first couple times I started GY6 150 a few days ago, the warning LED came on. Also got a lot of blow-by oil coming out of the head ventilation tube. Did a couple extended rides (20 miles?) since, and the light has not come on again, and the ventilation is no longer showing signs of spurting oil. Currently running Bel-Ray 10-40 mineral oil, because that's what they gave me with the engine swap kit. To be honest, I always thought the debate was dino vs synthetic. What's the advantage of mineral oil, and how does it differ from dino/synthetic?
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VIP
Scoot Junior
Posts: 10
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Post by VIP on Mar 5, 2018 13:30:40 GMT -5
I have Vapor speedo with plug temperature sensor, and set warning threshold to 300 degrees, danger threshold 350. The first couple times I started GY6 150 a few days ago, the warning LED came on. Also got a lot of blow-by oil coming out of the head ventilation tube. Did a couple extended rides (20 miles?) since, and the light has not come on again, and the ventilation is no longer showing signs of spurting oil. Currently running Bel-Ray 10-40 mineral oil, because that's what they gave me with the engine swap kit. To be honest, I always thought the debate was dino vs synthetic. What's the advantage of mineral oil, and how does it differ from dino/synthetic? Mineral oil is another word for dino or non-synthetic. It's not a separate third type.  |
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