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Post by amazen720 on Mar 8, 2018 7:39:24 GMT -5
Hey Guys
Need some advice before I waste time... But let me explain the issue first;
Peace Sports TPGS-810
#1 battery doesn't keep a charge #2 when bike has been sitting for a while it takes a lot of kicks to kick start.
Do you think it's the coil? CDI box? Or the stator?
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Post by spazter12 on Mar 8, 2018 8:14:31 GMT -5
Is it a new battery? Are you using the electric start first and then attempting to kick it?
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Post by amazen720 on Mar 8, 2018 8:17:22 GMT -5
Is it a new battery? Are you using the electric start first and then attempting to kick it? Not a new battery... Mostly I try the electric start first... Yesterday I didn't try the electric start and it took two kicks... Every time I try electric start first, it takes a lot of kicks.
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Post by amazen720 on Mar 8, 2018 8:27:58 GMT -5
Battery volts reads 13.8
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Post by spazter12 on Mar 8, 2018 8:37:03 GMT -5
Have you tested the battery at a parts store? They can usually tell you if it's time for a new one. AutoZone does it for free.
Once it's starter do you ride it around and afterwards check the voltage? You might need to rig up a Voltimeter and check that your battery is charging while you ride. Should get to 14.1ish V. If it gets higher than that you might want to check your rectifier. If it doesn't charge you might want to check your stator.
Also if you are doing the electric start make sure the charge doesn't go below 10-11V before trying it again. It's a bit frustrating checking every time and waiting but it will save your battery in the long run.
I went through something similar with my ruck.
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Post by amazen720 on Mar 8, 2018 8:44:41 GMT -5
Have you tested the battery at a parts store? They can usually tell you if it's time for a new one. AutoZone does it for free. Once it's starter do you ride it around and afterwards check the voltage? You might need to rig up a Voltimeter and check that your battery is charging while you ride. Should get to 14.1ish V. If it gets higher than that you might want to check your rectifier. If it doesn't charge you might want to check your stator. Also if you are doing the electric start make sure the charge doesn't go below 10-11V before trying it again. It's a bit frustrating checking every time and waiting but it will save your battery in the long run. I went through something similar with my ruck. No I haven't test at a parts store... Just kicked started it (took about 7-8 kicks) battery volts read 14.5... while running.. scooter never cuts off while riding and if running a while electric starts fine so I don't think it's stator.. the spark plug is new.. so I'm thinking it has to be the coil or CDI box.. if it's below 50° outside the electric start button doesn't do nothing when pressed, I'll have to kick start.
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Post by jackrides on Mar 8, 2018 9:18:59 GMT -5
Are battery terminals really clean and tight? Remove, brush (the terminals) and reinstall. A little corrosion or looseness will limit current flow but still show good voltage.
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Post by amazen720 on Mar 8, 2018 9:22:03 GMT -5
Are battery terminals really clean and tight? Remove, brush (the terminals) and reinstall. A little corrosion or looseness will limit current flow but still show good voltage. No corrosion on battery connection...
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Post by lilpinny on Mar 8, 2018 9:54:57 GMT -5
I'd bet the battery is bad. It can show a correct voltage but lack the cranking power. If cells are dead it won't hold a charge and won't give you the juice. Check the voltage drop while starting, or take it to the shop to test it.
If you hook a multimeter up to the battery and start it you'll see the voltage drop and come back up. If the voltage drops below 9v the battery is bad. A battery like this will show a correct charge accros the terminals when the bike is off .
You can jump start it from a car just make sure the car is off or even better one of those little USB jump start batterys. Those things come in handy.
Or just go buy a new battery. Most starting issues are the battery since that's a part that will wear out over time. If it sat for months in the heat or cold that'll kill it even faster.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Mar 8, 2018 10:15:03 GMT -5
No corrosion on battery connection...
Check the other end of the wires. One is connected to the frame, the other to a terminal on the starter relay. If either is corroded, rusty, or loose, it won't pass current(amps) to the starter motor, and the electric start won't. An additional test which should check the starter relay is to jumper from the small wire on the relay to the large(red) wire coming from the battery. If you jumper those terminals, the relay should close, and pass full battery current to the starter motor. If that does not happen(expect a few little sparks), then the relay is suspect. Use a regular jumper cable, and connect the two large terminals on the relay. EXPECT BIG SPARK. The starter motor should turn. If that doesn't work, then try the jumper cable connecting the + terminal on the battey itself to the large starter terminal on the relay. If that doesn't work, you likely have an intermittent problem in the starter. Do remember that VOLTAGE does not guarantee AMPERAGE, as jackrides indicated. You can check voltage on the battery when cranking(or trying to crank) and see if it drops. If the battery voltage drops to near 10V when cranking, the battery is suspect(or the starter is REALLY hosed). tom
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Post by jmkjr72 on Mar 8, 2018 10:42:46 GMT -5
If your looking lucky a motor sports battery has a life of 3 years and that is stretching it. Voltage is in only part of the equation in a starting systems cranking amps is the other. Stock your lucky to get 60 to 60 cranking amps. Now toss in a 40 deg morning or colder and those available amps go down add in a an old battery they go down and loss through the wires. You could also have a bad cell in the battery this is why you need to have it tested but not everyplace has the ability to test these small batteries
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Post by amazen720 on Mar 8, 2018 11:43:26 GMT -5
If your looking lucky a motor sports battery has a life of 3 years and that is stretching it. Voltage is in only part of the equation in a starting systems cranking amps is the other. Stock your lucky to get 60 to 60 cranking amps. Now toss in a 40 deg morning or colder and those available amps go down add in a an old battery they go down and loss through the wires. You could also have a bad cell in the battery this is why you need to have it tested but not everyplace has the ability to test these small batteries So my sure bet is just getting a new battery and change the coil also... I just rode to Walmart ( about 1.1 miles one way), spent 20 mins shopping... Came out and electric start fired up in 0.5 secs... Came home bike sat for 1.5 hours and no crank...
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Post by lilpinny on Mar 8, 2018 21:57:41 GMT -5
That's your battery
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Post by greginisn on Mar 10, 2018 3:10:28 GMT -5
If you don't already have a portable digital multi meter It's time to get one. It seems you can't get your battery tested so your next best alternative is to test it for yourself. Measure the battery voltage while trying to start it electrically and if it is significantly lower than 12vdc while cranking your battery is kaput. It doesn't matter that it reads 13.7 vdc with no load, the thing can't supply the current needed to spin the the starter motor effectively. $20 or so will get you all the meter you will need to check out your scoot. And it won't be money ill spent. Greg
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Post by lilpinny on Mar 10, 2018 9:00:01 GMT -5
I think harbor freight has cheap multimeters
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