ncsteve
Scoot Member
Posts: 48
Location: western NC
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Post by ncsteve on Apr 25, 2018 14:50:50 GMT -5
Good suggestion. Thanks. I think so, but I will check to make sure.
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ncsteve
Scoot Member
Posts: 48
Location: western NC
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Post by ncsteve on Apr 25, 2018 17:37:56 GMT -5
I checked, and the motor has a good ground. Thanks again for the input.
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ncsteve
Scoot Member
Posts: 48
Location: western NC
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Post by ncsteve on Apr 26, 2018 16:39:41 GMT -5
It's alive!! Thanks to all for your suggestions. You that make up this forum are great! Here's the rest of the story: I decided I would give propane a try. I hooked up a vac line to the intake manifold vac port and gave it a good shot of propane from my propane torch while it was cranking. It gave two pops and blew a lot of smoke out the exhaust. I reinstalled the original cdi, the original spark plug, and the new carburetor (again). I gave it propane again, and it started and kept running. I put the petcock vac hose back on the vac port, and it idled. It smoked a lot for about 15 minutes but eventually cleared out and idled smoothly. It revs smoothly as well. Now all I have to fix is the gummed up front brake caliper and the fuel sending unit. I suspect the sending unit is a victim of the same evil brew that developed in the tank over the five years the scooter sat. Maybe when the monsoon rains end her, I'll be able to go for a ride. Thanks again!
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Post by pinkscoot on Apr 27, 2018 11:55:32 GMT -5
Good news, I run most of my scoots with a manual petcock to eliminate that as an issue.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Apr 27, 2018 12:31:28 GMT -5
I think 120 psi is marginal. I think I'd try squirting some oil through the spark plug hole, replacing the plug, and giving it a whirl. Might even squirt some plain ol' gas into the plug hole at the same time. It is possible there's corrosion on the cylinder walls, or the valve guides/stems that adds a bit too much friction for it to fire off and keep going. If you are not feeling 'anything', try removing the exhaust pipe at the exhaust valve port so you can listen for 'pops'. They are not real loud, so don't worry about that. If you use the kick start, you'll get more or better compression & crankshaft rotation speed than the electric. It might pay to remove the kick start lever, and position it CCW so it has more height to kick from. At horizontal, the as-sold alignment, there's not a lot of 'kick' room before bottoming out. Most people (me, anyway) don't do much kick force once reaching the bottom of the stroke. You can get more if you 'lift' the kick start lever 10-15-20 degrees. It will ride fine at the higher elevation and not really be in the way of anything. An alternate tactic would be to squirt some fuel into one of the vacuum lines, for direct access to the intake valve. See if it pops on that. If you use ether(starting fluid), you have to be able to get it behind the throttle plate, or it will just evaporate(bounce back toward you if the plate is closed, and not get into the intake). When I picked up one, the owner squirted ether into the port/tube on the front of the air cleaner assembly, and it fired right up. It then proceeded to pee gasoline all over the place... but it started. That one had a perforated diaphragm in the vacuum petcock. It would add 'extra' fuel to the mix as the engine ran, and dribble all over the place once the engine was shut down. Sure was a LOT harder to start than the PO showed me. Several hours of hair pulling and I figured out what was going on. tom
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Apr 27, 2018 12:38:16 GMT -5
Well, I missed the 'its alive' and started typing...
The sending unit can be removed with a pair of 'slip joint' pliers applied to either end of one of the 'lock ring' tangs. Try pressure on a few to break it loose, then rotate until it can be removed. Gently lift and manipulate to get the sending unit free of the O-ring. Twist and turn to remove. Likely coated with goo. I think you can ground the wire that comes from the cluster and it should pop to Full with the key ON. The diagrams show a resistor leading to ground, so grounding the wire(not the 'hot' one) might work. There is a small vent port in the bottom of the front brake master cylinder reservoir. If it gets plugged, you won't have proper brake action. Actually, there are two. One larger than the other, the second, small one being closer to the centerline of the scoot. If it is plugged, brake fluid can't get pumped properly, and you'll have 'hard pedal', but no operation of the brakes. At least that's what I remember. tom
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ncsteve
Scoot Member
Posts: 48
Location: western NC
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Post by ncsteve on Apr 28, 2018 7:42:13 GMT -5
Update: The scooter is running great now, and the front brake has loosened up. I will change the brake fluid anyway. I tested the dash fuel gauge, and it works properly. I will remove the sending unit soon to see what kind of mess I find there. Thanks again for all the help!
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