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Post by 139qmb on May 6, 2018 10:34:15 GMT -5
So this is the second kit I have installed due to my lack of performing a proper break in. The first kit I started 2 or 3 times with cool down periods between. I didn't have the engine plastics cover on that the fan blows air into, and the air/fuel mixture screw may have been a bit on the lean side. I then went for a short ride holding WOT which resulted in soft seize of the piston. Upon tear down there is heavy scaring on one side of the piston. Cylinder looked ok, however I didn't inspect closely. I just started the new kit for the first time this morning. Plastic cover installed, air/fuel screw an extra 1/4 towards rich. I varied the throttle while leaving the scooter on the center stand, allowing rear wheel to spin. I did more 1/4 to half throttle and idling than anything. I will go out 2 or 3 more times today and repeat the same procedure. Tomorrow my plan is to drive slow around the neighborhood subdivision. The 3rd day I plan on a trip down the road. The speed limit is 25 on the road so I will still take it easy, vary the throttle, and not do extended WOT pulls. From everything I've read this is the proper technique.
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Post by benji on May 6, 2018 11:13:41 GMT -5
What main jet did you up jet to?
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Post by benji on May 6, 2018 11:14:19 GMT -5
I wouldn't ride it until you get the jetting close. Do some plug chops.
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Post by 139qmb on May 6, 2018 11:28:35 GMT -5
I didn't install a big bore, same 39mm stock size. That being said I left the jet size the same. Just completed the 2nd start up on the center stand. Did a couple WOT pulls for like 2-3 secounds, seams to bog and sputter, and heavy smoke (I know it's a 2 stroke). Was afraid to keep at WOT for to long, maybe it would have cleared out? I will start it again in a few hours after cool down.
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Post by Happypancake! on May 6, 2018 11:51:08 GMT -5
It is not a good idea to break in a new piston on a stand as it the engine has essentially no load. There needs to be a load to set the rings properly.
Do your break in on the road.
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Post by 'O'Verse on May 6, 2018 12:37:17 GMT -5
Might be a good idea to get a temp gauge. You can monitor your temps especially throughout your heat cycles. Keeping an eye on your engine temps is always a good thing. More than likely you could have prevented the first soft seize.
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Post by benji on May 6, 2018 13:36:52 GMT -5
I would pop out your plug now that you've went wot on the stand (I wouldn't do that again btw) and check what color it is. On a 2t, it's a good idea to start it up and "heatcycle" it a few times to set the rings, reving it high helps it break them in 'supposedly'. A cylinder temp gauge is definitely a good idea, plug chops/checks are a must. The color of the plug can tell you how she's running.
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Post by benji on May 6, 2018 13:37:56 GMT -5
If you haven't changed the bore size, id check for air leaks especially if it heat seized before
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Post by 139qmb on May 6, 2018 14:32:44 GMT -5
Wish I would have read the replies ,just completed the 3rd start up on the center stand. Engine starts right away with no issues. The engine ran on the jet it has for a year or longer. Not too worried about the jet. Same with the temp, this time I have the engine plastic on that the fan uses to remove heat. In addition I have the air/fuel 1/4 or more towards the rich setting. I will not operate on the center stand anymore, and will begin driving around the subdivision some tomorrow. Thank all for the replies.
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Post by 190mech on May 6, 2018 15:40:53 GMT -5
Air/fuel screw is for idle only,has little to do with the engine under load,,hope you still have the stock airbox also...
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Post by benji on May 15, 2018 11:07:56 GMT -5
You can run it on the stand, but wot isn't a good idea.
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