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Post by bredfield63 on May 14, 2018 16:29:47 GMT -5
I just completed a 100cc build while it was cooler out I had no issue it is in the mid 90's now and I have overheating issues, I am still breaking it in 100 miles so far, but it is running hot, could I be too lean? I have a oil cooler ordered and a aftermarket performance fan as well, in the mean time I am looking at other options, maybe raising roller weight to keep revs down to 7k? thoughts everyone??
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Post by bredfield63 on May 15, 2018 21:12:40 GMT -5
tithe main jet was only 82, so i swapped to 100 and upped the roller weight to 48g see what happens
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Post by humanshield on May 15, 2018 21:53:27 GMT -5
It is perfectly normal for a new build to run hot.
But it is really bad to allow a new build to run lean during break in.
That said, you MUST prevent the engine from overheating during break in. That means NOT riding it far for the first 20 miles. Like as in down the block and back home to let it cool down. And incrementally increase the distance as the miles build up. The first 100 miles are SUPER critical but brak in will last for at least 500 miles IMO.
I have like 5000 miles on my 100cc Big Bore build with cam and big valve head and I've run it full throttle more than a few times for miles on end. I think the key is a proper break in...and some luck with good parts.
If you push your motor hard during break in you'll likely accelerate wear to the rings, piston and cylinder walls.
82 main jet sounds too small.Can't remember exactly but I think I'm running an 90 MJ with my 100cc build.
I clearly remember it running very hot at first. Even jetted properly. The parts are tight. The biggest mistake (I think) people make is just treating it like a normal motor even when it's brand new.
Some people even say to run it hard brand new. I disagree. Some people also get seized motors and permanent damage from the heat.
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Post by diynuke on May 16, 2018 4:21:04 GMT -5
It is perfectly normal for a new build to run hot. But it is really bad to allow a new build to run lean during break in. That said, you MUST prevent the engine from overheating during break in. That means NOT riding it far for the first 20 miles. Like as in down the block and back home to let it cool down. And incrementally increase the distance as the miles build up. The first 100 miles are SUPER critical but brak in will last for at least 500 miles IMO. I have like 5000 miles on my 100cc Big Bore build with cam and big valve head and I've run it full throttle more than a few times for miles on end. I think the key is a proper break in...and some luck with good parts. If you push your motor hard during break in you'll likely accelerate wear to the rings, piston and cylinder walls. 82 main jet sounds too small.Can't remember exactly but I think I'm running an 90 MJ with my 100cc build. I clearly remember it running very hot at first. Even jetted properly. The parts are tight. The biggest mistake (I think) people make is just treating it like a normal motor even when it's brand new. Some people even say to run it hard brand new. I disagree. Some people also get seized motors and permanent damage from the heat. I agree and yeah keep the rpm down. You also don't ride a car on the highway in the 3rd gear xD
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Post by scootnewb on May 16, 2018 10:57:34 GMT -5
tithe main jet was only 82, so i swapped to 100 and upped the roller weight to 48g see what happens 100 should be good. If you're using the stock carb, you may want to try upping the pilot to 33. For me I found 33/96 was working ok after BBK with exhaust and uniflow.
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Post by bredfield63 on May 16, 2018 16:11:28 GMT -5
All good then, I only rode it 3 miles at a time, for about 40 miles,drained the original oil and put in 4cycle motorcycle oil, then a short trip 10 miles and backwith a 20 min break between legs. it was running a bit hot, but when it got to 96 here it ran way hot for my liking, so I was worried, but it's ok, the increased main and the heavier rollers are helping, just got the bigger fan in so that goes on tonight, supposed to push 20% more air across the motor, I had thought that carb came with an 88 main, but it was 82, too lean. I have done about six or so Big Bore Kits, kept 3 though one is going to be sold off soon. , one has 200, one has 8300 and the other 8600, so I am hoping to get a good run on this motor as well now that I think I kicked the heating issue. I try to keep the rpm down to 7500 at the most and then still mostly doing short runs, with oil changes every 300 to 500, for the cost of a quart of oil I will stay on the safer side., thanks for the input I appreciate all comments
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Post by scooterted on May 16, 2018 17:16:55 GMT -5
I wouldnt spend the money on motorcycle oil. Its got addatives for wet clutches that scooters dont need.
I personally use Rotella t3 or t6.
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Post by bredfield63 on May 16, 2018 21:12:34 GMT -5
does that have zince in it?
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Post by scooterted on May 17, 2018 7:13:30 GMT -5
does that have zince in it? Yes they do. T3 is a 15w40 non synthetic and t6 is a 5w40 synthetic. Both with zinc.
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Post by bredfield63 on May 17, 2018 13:25:15 GMT -5
I have been using 4cycle ATV or Motorcycle oil, you like the rotella more because of the zinc then? do you feel it protects the motor from wear better than other oil?
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Post by scooterted on May 17, 2018 14:19:47 GMT -5
I use rotella t6 for my scoots and my miata. I like it because its a cheap synthetic of the proper viscosity, good detergent levels, its generally a good oil useful for heavy duty use, and the zinc.
The motorcycle oil is not necessary and has additives and friction modifiers for the wet clutch that arent needed.
If you want to know more than you ever thought you needed to know about oil google search "bobistheoilguy." Its a forum like this, except its about oil (and filters).
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larryhobman
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 117
Location: Delaware beaches
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Post by larryhobman on May 17, 2018 19:22:50 GMT -5
It is perfectly normal for a new build to run hot. But it is really bad to allow a new build to run lean during break in. That said, you MUST prevent the engine from overheating during break in. That means NOT riding it far for the first 20 miles. Like as in down the block and back home to let it cool down. And incrementally increase the distance as the miles build up. The first 100 miles are SUPER critical but brak in will last for at least 500 miles IMO. I have like 5000 miles on my 100cc Big Bore build with cam and big valve head and I've run it full throttle more than a few times for miles on end. I think the key is a proper break in...and some luck with good parts. If you push your motor hard during break in you'll likely accelerate wear to the rings, piston and cylinder walls. 82 main jet sounds too small.Can't remember exactly but I think I'm running an 90 MJ with my 100cc build. I clearly remember it running very hot at first. Even jetted properly. The parts are tight. The biggest mistake (I think) people make is just treating it like a normal motor even when it's brand new. Some people even say to run it hard brand new. I disagree. Some people also get seized motors and permanent damage from the heat.
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