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Post by maskon7 on May 30, 2018 16:22:18 GMT -5
Hey guys so i bought a Chinese scooter about 3 months ago and it was a 49 cc at the time. I upgraded it to 110 cc and it runs about 35-40 on flat surface but wont go over that. Going down hill it only reaches about 43 and no matter how long im going down hill it will not go faster than 43. I asked the shop to remove the restricter but they said its not a good idea so i decided not to. Now i want to remove it and go a tad faster but not abuse it. I have searched videos online but since my scooter is chinese i can't really find one to relate to. I posted all the wires i could find that i think is connected to the restricter and was hoping to see if anyone knows which wire is the one that i need to disconnect. I would greatly appreciate the help!
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Post by kagetenshi on May 30, 2018 18:20:49 GMT -5
It would most likely be restricted by either the CDI or the drive boss(I think that's right?). Unrestricted CDIs are relatively inexpensive.
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Post by 90GTVert on May 31, 2018 10:26:58 GMT -5
I see wiring for turn signals, battery, and stator. None of which would I recommend unplugging.
Let's go back a bit. What is it doing when it's topped out? Is it sputtering or what some would call bouncing off of a rev limiter? Do you know what RPM it is at? Will it just not go faster?
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Post by maskon7 on May 31, 2018 12:31:35 GMT -5
I see wiring for turn signals, battery, and stator. None of which would I recommend unplugging. Let's go back a bit. What is it doing when it's topped out? Is it sputtering or what some would call bouncing off of a rev limiter? Do you know what RPM it is at? Will it just not go faster? Damn thats pretty cool that you know exactly what the wires do, especially on that Chinese bike. It does sputter but very very rarely i was just assuming that when that happens its because its flooded a little? it fixes itself really quick though. The RPMS won't go passed 7-8k. It's all digital and after 8k it has red lines so im guessing thats not a good place to be and thats why the rev limiter is for? But it doesn't bounce it just stays at 8k max. It won't go faster at all. Also when i first got the big bore kit it used to accelerate faster, now it just seems like the acceleration is dying is a bit or maybe i just got used to the acceleration. I think im just going to take it to a shop though, i dont want to mess anything up by accident. What is the cheapest route you think i should take to get maybe even like 5 more mph to my top speed? |
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Post by 90GTVert on May 31, 2018 13:18:06 GMT -5
Sounds like your CVT may need some attention. Could need heavier rollers/sliders or general maintenance, like clean it up and check belt width.
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Post by maskon7 on Jun 1, 2018 17:39:58 GMT -5
Thanks for that video man! I called my local scooter shop and he suggested on rejetting the carb whatever that means. He is charging me 120 for that, do you think thats fair? I was thinking of rejetting the carb and also getting better weights for take off. |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 1, 2018 18:09:21 GMT -5
Rejetting means changing the jets in the carb. Trying to get it in tune. Some places have a set jet that they like. For example, they may say all 70cc engines get a 90 main jet. Can work fairly well. Not worth $120 if that's all they'll be doing. If they're going to actually test and tune it, then maybe. Sounds steep to me, but it can take some time. The main jet you end up with won't cost more than $5 for you to buy. You can get whole sets of jets for $15-20. All sorts of info on that here : www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.htmlI would look at the CVT, to be sure it was not something like the worn belt I mentioned before. Then try heavier rollers/sliders and see what it did. Then try to tune the carb. That's just based on the symptoms you noted. Really, I'd suggest tuning the carb and CVT any time you do a BBK and if you're going to tune the CVT you should check it over to be sure it's in good shape first. I know that's not the simple answer you'd prob like. Short answer guess would be worn belt or rollers too light. |
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Post by maskon7 on Jun 1, 2018 18:42:35 GMT -5
Yea he said he would be testing and tuning it multiple times till he gets it just right. I would do it myself especially since you said it wont cost more than 5 dollars ?! I just don't know much on tuning and will be scared i will mess it up. I am pretty sure i could probably use a better belt too. All the parts on that scooter im sure are really cheaply made except the BBK that just got put on there. I didnt see your video all the way but i have to view it in its entirety to learn some more. This is my main source of transportation, if i had a car i would definitely be doing it myself and just having the scooter to learn/project type of thing. Btw thanks for all the info im really appreciating it. After you said it was only 5 dollars maybe i need to look at other shops, problem is, its the closest one to me and riding a scooter 35-40 mph max to other shops that are located 15-20 miles away can be a hassle with cars riding your ass lol. But can rejetting the carb actually get you much more performance? I am not trying to pay 120 if im only going to get better acceleration or like 2 more miles to my top speed. he also mentioned that he doesn't think i have a rev limiter but if no matter what i do i cant get over 8k rpms then obviously there is a rev limiter there right?
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Post by 90GTVert on Jun 2, 2018 6:52:23 GMT -5
The 1 jet is roughly $5. To DIY, you need a kit, but that's still $15-20. The thing is, tuning is time/labor intensive. You may only end up with a new main jet, a needle clip position changed, and an idle mixture adjustment. All of which are free as far as parts aside from that $5 jet, but if it takes hours to figure out what it needs then a mechanic still wants to be paid for his/her time. Same goes for CVT inspection and service. It may be that you need a $15 set of rollers or a $20 belt to be tip-top, but it takes time to clean and check things and time to assemble and reassemble. Learning to do this stuff yourself pays, as long as you do it correctly, because most of us aren't making $50-$100 an hour, but lots of shops charge that for labor.
Rejetting the carb can improve performance, depending how far out of tune it is. Could be quite close now. Prob is since it sounds like it runs decent. You may not get much speed from it. Possibly none. Always nice to know it's not running lean though. If the issue is with rollers or the belt, no amount of carb tuning is going to fix that.
Not necessarily on the rev limiter. Could be. You should be able to pick up a CDI cheap and install it yourself to find out. Most of the stock replacement CDIs that you'll find don't have rev limiters or they're high enough that it won't matter (10,000RPM for example).
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Post by maskon7 on Jun 2, 2018 17:04:00 GMT -5
Thanks for all your help! I am going to send you a PM if it's ok.
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Post by greginisn on Jun 4, 2018 22:51:22 GMT -5
Consider this if you have a 49cc motor spinning at 8000rpm and a 110cc motor spinning at 8000rpm with any given rear end gear ratio why would you expect to go any faster, You are going to have to think about changing rear gear ratios to a somewhat smaller value to increase your rear wheel rpm to realize any speed improvements with your more powerful motor.
Greg
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