|
Post by djp1987 on Jun 13, 2018 15:13:35 GMT -5
Do the bulbs have one or two contacts on the base? What is the size (diameter of the glass) of the bulbs? If the wiring is correct, either bulb is independent of the other. What model do you have? Gregism noted the ground wire from the headlight (Thunder model) was screwed to the fork assembly. I would definitely splice a new wire into that, tape it to the harness, and connect it to a secure ground on the engine, battery negative wire, or other good ground wire in the main harness. I think electricity flowing thru fork bearings is a bad idea. the bulbs as it turns out are an H1 (single prong) socket but 35w instead of the standard 55 i see in auto part stores, i ordered a couple i found online that are 35w just to be safe. also there is a second prong in the receptacle for ground. glass is about 5/16" wide on original and replacements i ordered. model of scooter is thunder 50, bulbs just say h1 12v 35w. as for the ground to the headlights: it isnt secured to the fork but to the spot the rectifier is mounted to on the frame. at least i think that is the headlight ground. makes sense. ground looks good w/o damage, deformation, charring or discoloration of any kind. also the led running lights use the same ground wire and they still work properly. battery still starts it fine even though the headlights have not worked for about a week, so stator should be good, cant test as my multimeter is m.i.a. just rode a back road earlier (avoiding the cops. i got lucky last time not to get a ticket, no headlight is a ~$500 fine) all battery functions still good to go after the week of riding. could this be a bad rectifier? or weirdly the stator, anyway? kinda doubtful cause if i remember right those failures cause battery failure and i dont see any signs of it. please let me know if i am mistaken. thanks
|
|
|
Post by jackrides on Jun 13, 2018 16:37:48 GMT -5
The Thunder wiring diagram shows the headlights running from partially regulated ac voltage. An inexpensive meter (not digital) or even a 12 volt test light will work fine for checking wiring. Just ground the black wire to the negative battery terminal and investigate away.
|
|
|
Post by lilpinny on Jun 13, 2018 17:04:44 GMT -5
Don't run 55w. Those are for cars and draw too much power for your scoot.
|
|
|
Post by lilpinny on Jun 13, 2018 17:09:17 GMT -5
The Thunder wiring diagram shows the headlights running from partially regulated ac voltage. An inexpensive meter (not digital) or even a 12 volt test light will work fine for checking wiring. Just ground the black wire to the negative battery terminal and investigate away. Yep. Multimeters are like $10 at harbor freight ($25 at home Depot, etc) and a requirement for troubleshooting anythung electrical. Make sure to get additional leads that have alligator clips on them.
|
|
|
Post by lilpinny on Jun 13, 2018 18:30:48 GMT -5
The wiring diagram comes in all fuzzy for me and I can't read it. But it sounds like AC since it only comes on when the engine is running (stator is engaged).
Sometimes what happens is the voltage is too much and it overwhelms the light and blows it. I've done this by jamming full throttle for miles with an 11 pole stator on a 170 GY6. There should be a regulator there clipping the wave at around 12-13 volts but sometimes you can blow that too. There wouldn't be a rectifier in this circuit since there is no AC to DC conversion like you'd have a reg and a rec on your charging system. Battery needs DC. So maybe that's what the diagram is showing, I don't know.
You maybe might want to swap those lights for some LEDs and never worry about this ever happening again.
|
|
|
Post by greginisn on Jun 14, 2018 2:02:59 GMT -5
My Thunder 50 had two Headlight lamps 1 high and 1 low beam I suspect yours is the same. One on the right the other to the left.
It would be an odd thing to have both bulbs go out at the same time so I would still be looking for that common thing. The white wire you refer to looks like it ought to be power for the Low beam. With the switch set to high there should be no voltage at that wire. Can only power one light at a time.
I'm assuming you have a DMM, if not get one. You will need it again someday and you surely need it now. You have to know where and what in the headlight circuit is getting voltage and where it is not getting voltage. Guessing is a poor way to fix this even tho sometimes a good visual can get stuff fixed. And it is a situation where you can't just throw parts at it and hope for the best. If you are unfamiliar with using a DMM ask, people will help. It's not a big deal. I'm not beating on you but with a Chinese scooter it's just another tool you need in your kit.
Good luck Greg
A $20 - $30 DMM is all you need so don't go fancy with this. People used Analog meters for years and fixed stuff even tho they are in the same category as comparing a sun dial to a digital watch.
One last thought, with that front panel loaded with white LEDs that ought to distract the cops enough so they don't bug you about an actual headlight. Claim ignorance and be really sorry about it if you are stopped.
|
|
|
Post by lilpinny on Jun 14, 2018 9:12:19 GMT -5
DMMs are handy. Just the other day I wired my fuel gauge by tapping into my tail light power and ground leads. It wasn't working so I used my meter on my taps and found out I had no circuit. Power was good but no ground. So I took to pliers and really squished my ground tap down and then it made a circuit. It started working after that. My tap had not sunk into the wire. It took minutes to figure it out, instead of hours, or Google, or asking here.
|
|
|
Post by jackrides on Jun 14, 2018 13:34:13 GMT -5
What's wrong with sundials? Sundials do not require batteries except at night.
|
|
|
Post by lilpinny on Jun 14, 2018 13:49:37 GMT -5
What's wrong with sundials? Sundials do not require batteries except at night. They have moon dials too
|
|
|
Post by djp1987 on Jun 15, 2018 6:48:52 GMT -5
got a new multimeter coming in the mail. will start checking wires when its here. cant take scooters on the highway, and the home depot here is on the highway. driving on the highway WILL get my scoot impounded here.
|
|
|
Post by djp1987 on Jun 15, 2018 14:07:56 GMT -5
ok... i am CONFUSED!!!! happy but confused. apparently a mouse took up residence in the handlebar assembly and chewed partway through my right turn signal. i repaired that and now the headlights work...(?) so... thanks to everyone who tried to help.
|
|
|
Post by greginisn on Jun 16, 2018 2:21:05 GMT -5
Wow! That really doesn't seem to make any sense to me either but you can't argue with success. What if you load your handlebar housing with some mouse killer stuff. Let them eat that! Greg
|
|
|
Post by djp1987 on Jun 16, 2018 4:26:49 GMT -5
i tend to spray their nests with hornet killer. does the trick. acts like nerve agent
|
|
|
Post by lilpinny on Jun 16, 2018 8:30:34 GMT -5
Fun fact: mice teeth constantly grow so they have to find something to always chew on to grind them down. Bummer they picked your scoot. Glad it's working.
|
|
|
Post by GrumpyUnk on Jun 16, 2018 10:50:04 GMT -5
I am under the impression that the 'regulator rectifier' that is connected to both the white & yellow leads from the stator performs rectification for some bulbs, cluster, battery, and also regulates the voltage fed to the headlight bulbs. If it fails, you may have unregulated voltage that burns the filament. Check both bulbs, likely they are the same, and you can swap them to see if the problem persists or follows one bulb. I would check the voltage at the regulator / rectifier with the engine running at idle. Do NOT disconnect the regulator with the engine running as you may feed some unwanted voltage to the system, depending on what contacts make/break first& last. You may have a problem with the pins or bars at the bottom of the socket as their quality is not great. You can try to bend them to insure better contact with the bottom of the bulb. tom
|
|