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Post by KSR Moto on Jul 2, 2018 12:56:02 GMT -5
I want to replace my front wheel bearings, they are not that bad but they dont turn easy, the only problem is I dont know how to pull them out and I dont have a bearing puller, any other way?
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PirateLabs
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 296
Location: Bowling Green, KY
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Post by PirateLabs on Jul 2, 2018 13:28:09 GMT -5
I want to replace my front wheel bearings, they are not that bad but they dont turn easy, the only problem is I dont know how to pull them out and I dont have a bearing puller, any other way? What kind of scooter do you have? If it is a generic Chinese 49cc 4T (like mine) download the manual from the tech section and, it probably give you some idea on how to do that. I just used that manual the other day to figure out how to get my o-ring off of the rear brake pivot so I can replace it. If your scoot is something different, it will not be much help. Bill |
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jul 3, 2018 11:35:04 GMT -5
Not not not not not a fun task. You will need a puller(technical method) or a hammer and a punch of some sort.
Remove the wheel from the scooter(remove axle nut, pull axle, drop wheel, separate from speedo drive, slide disk out of caliper) and remove the 'slug' on the brake side, and the seal, remove the seal on the speedo side.
You will have to use an 'inside' grabbing puller/slide hammer, or use a punch & hammer. For both, you have to move the inner 'spacer' out of its central location to gain access to the inner race, or to gain access for the punch to the outer race. Use the puller/slide hammer, then flip the wheel, and repeat. Use the punch and hammer to destroy the opposite bearing, remove the spacer tube, then whang on the outer race of the other bearing, evenly so you don't cant it in the bore and jam it...
Installation is straightforward, using a hammer and appropriate diameter cylinder to bear on the OUTER RACE ONLY. Hit the inner, and you might as well start over.
Replace all the spacers and seals, set the wheel on a piece of 2X4 or other to raise off the floor, and fit the disk, slide in the axle partway, fit the speedo(do not forget all the seals, and line up the 'notch' to the 'tab' in the speedo drive). Slide the axle through, install the nut, torque.
Easy. Not.
tom
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Post by KSR Moto on Jul 3, 2018 13:01:21 GMT -5
Not not not not not a fun task. You will need a puller(technical method) or a hammer and a punch of some sort. Remove the wheel from the scooter(remove axle nut, pull axle, drop wheel, separate from speedo drive, slide disk out of caliper) and remove the 'slug' on the brake side, and the seal, remove the seal on the speedo side. You will have to use an 'inside' grabbing puller/slide hammer, or use a punch & hammer. For both, you have to move the inner 'spacer' out of its central location to gain access to the inner race, or to gain access for the punch to the outer race. Use the puller/slide hammer, then flip the wheel, and repeat. Use the punch and hammer to destroy the opposite bearing, remove the spacer tube, then whang on the outer race of the other bearing, evenly so you don't cant it in the bore and jam it... Installation is straightforward, using a hammer and appropriate diameter cylinder to bear on the OUTER RACE ONLY. Hit the inner, and you might as well start over. Replace all the spacers and seals, set the wheel on a piece of 2X4 or other to raise off the floor, and fit the disk, slide in the axle partway, fit the speedo(do not forget all the seals, and line up the 'notch' to the 'tab' in the speedo drive). Slide the axle through, install the nut, torque. Easy. Not. tom Damn, it is easier to replace the whole thing than doing this, and I am worried about the seals I wont be able to find new, but bearings I have SKF, slide hammers cost here even more than my scoot... I can buy one but it is ridiculous, I would rather buy another scoot than get a tool to replace a bearing... maybe some workshop could do it for me |
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Post by scooterted on Jul 4, 2018 9:21:44 GMT -5
Any good machine shop or auto repair shop can do that.
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Post by lilpinny on Jul 4, 2018 23:03:08 GMT -5
I take that stuff to a custom chopper shop for things like that. They b as ducally just bang on it like mentioned above but the have the tools and experience to do it really fast.
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 6, 2018 16:10:47 GMT -5
I had the footage on my computer from doing wheel bearings a while ago. Sounded like a vid of wheel bearing replacement without special tools was needed so I got it together...
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Post by KSR Moto on Jul 6, 2018 16:35:20 GMT -5
I had the footage on my computer from doing wheel bearings a while ago. Sounded like a vid of wheel bearing replacement without special tools was needed so I got it together... Thank you very much! |
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jul 6, 2018 17:45:03 GMT -5
I had the footage on my computer from doing wheel bearings a while ago. Sounded like a vid of wheel bearing replacement without special tools was needed so I got it together... This was how I removed the bearings from my Machined Machines front wheel before everything went in for powder coat. Thing is, there was no bearing spacer. I have to be careful about not over tightening the axle nut to be sure everything spins freely - is this perhaps the purpose of the bearing spacer? Should it have one? |
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Post by 90GTVert on Jul 6, 2018 20:24:04 GMT -5
there was no bearing spacer. I have to be careful about not over tightening the axle nut to be sure everything spins freely - is this perhaps the purpose of the bearing spacer? Should it have one? With no spacer, you are kinda pinching the bearings together and putting additional loads on them that they aren't intended to have. You need a wheel spacer of an appropriate length to prevent that. Ideally you'd buy one for it or have one done in a lathe so the ends are square, but you could definitely cut a piece of tubing with a saw and grind/sand it till it was square. Some bikes use basically a big thick rubber washer that's snug on the spacer and squeezes in the wheel to keep it in place or you could get a washer that's about the right size (even get larger and grind it down if you need a better fit) and weld that to the spacer. Otherwise you're gonna ruin bearings faster and you won't be able to apply proper tightening torque to the axle. |
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Jul 8, 2018 10:31:03 GMT -5
Ball bearings generally do NOT like side loads. The spacer offers support to the inner race so it cannot be loaded when tightening the axle nut/bolt.
When I did the bearings on a Taotao. it seemed as if I made zero progress. The bearings just did not want to move. I used some 1"x1" to support the hub of the wheel and to protect the brake rotor. Perhaps there was too much 'cushion' and the impacts were thus less effective. I ended up destroying the bearing on the speedo side, as the ball guide came apart, and the inner race got loose and came free. The separator fell out, and access to the outer race was a LOT better. FWIW, just destroy the bearing as you'll not be using it again would be my suggestion if there was a question about being able to whang on the outer race. The opposite bearing, brake rotor side, was much easier with the other bearing and the separator removed. Removing it was comparatively a piece of cake.
THe old bearings had rough spots, and attempting to balance the wheel made that a lot more apparent. It would not rotate freely and smoothly when supported on the axle shaft.
Fastenal was a low-priced source for replacement bearings. If you 'ship to store', the freight is ridiculously low, as in 65 cents. Ship via regular carrier to your door, and a $5 set of bearings can cost 3-4X that in shipping. I was happy with the timing, and the bearings are a LOT nicer.
tom
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jan 31, 2019 19:24:30 GMT -5
Finally got back around to tackling my bearing spacer issue, i.e., there is none, and in the meantime, go ahead and order new bearings. For the record, and to make it easier for me to find next time around, thought I'd post this handy code chart for bearing designations. 6201RS6 = Single row deep groove ball bearing 2 = Light 01 = 12mm bore RS = 1 side sealed |
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Post by fuzzyruttin on Jan 31, 2019 19:30:47 GMT -5
I guess the next question is, amazon has a pack of 10 6201RS bearings for 13 bucks and free shipping. Optionally, order the exact same size one pair for 6 bucks plus $5 shipping from a scooter site. Is there any difference in quality in these things that I should care about?
edit: The thought is, there may be a little trial-and-error in fabricating the bearing spacer. If I happen to blow it and need to disassemble, it sure would be handy to have extra bearings on hand.
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Post by FrankenMech on Feb 4, 2019 8:43:57 GMT -5
You can usually buy bearings in any quantity, size, or configuration, from industrial supply warehouses in any large metro area. Even auto supply stores may have a few common sizes. Call around.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Feb 4, 2019 14:05:06 GMT -5
If the outer races fit into the hub, and should be 'stopped' by a machined edge from being pressed into the hub past a specific point, then I would measure the distance between the ridge the outers will run into, and use that as the length of the spacer, plus some number of thousandths of an inch. IOW, the spacer would be a fraction longer than the distance between the two outer races. How much is a machinists decision. The extra few thou would keep from side loading the inner races, and would allow a slight clearance between the outer race and the ridge they would run into if pressed totally in place. YMMV.
I did not measure either length when I did the replacement, figuring it should have been correct from the factory.
I don't know how accurate a measurement you can get from one outer race 'stop' to the other, but having something close would be a lot better(for the bearings) than having nothing. The length measured should track with the assembled combination, on the original axle bolt, of bearing-spacer-bearing, measuring between the inner surface of the outer bearing races.
tom
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