coal
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by coal on Aug 9, 2018 20:03:07 GMT -5
Hello I am new here. I bought a TaoTao50 (ATM-50) and I am enjoying it. However, I do have an issue with the other drivers. When I bought this I understood it wouldn't go very fast for me at 7000ft above sea level I get 25 to 28 mph. This is okay if I use residential routes but the moment I go onto the faster roads the issues arise. Drivers are fully willing to drive into the other lane to get around me even when it's a double solid line and the state laws here do not let me use the bike or bus lanes. This freaks me out and so I was recommended to by a big bore kit and a new carburetor that I can tune. I am looking to get it to so a little faster about 40mph to 45mph.
So I bought this carburetor which I installed. Had trouble getting the bike started at all with this. After messing about I got it running. Runs rich but other than that no issues and consistent starting.
I was advised to get this bore kit which I have yet to install. Looking at the information here maybe this kit was more than I needed and I am not looking to prematurely wear the engine out. Is it possible to still use this kit but tone down the stress as I feel I may not need all the power this kit will bring. Also the information from here www.49ccscoot.com/faq/whichkit.html suggests a better crank and head. Can I get away with not using these as long as I limit rpm? Any advice is welcome. I really want to mod this bike. I find it fun and a learning experience, but suggests will only help me better things.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 9, 2018 21:10:09 GMT -5
I wouldn't buy that kit. I can't even tell what the bore size is from the listing. I'd use a 47mm big bore kit. If you don't need all of the power, don't run it wide open. Get yourself a set of main jets so you can tune the carb too.
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coal
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by coal on Aug 9, 2018 21:34:15 GMT -5
Unfortunately I have already purchased it. I can take measurements of it if you wish.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 10, 2018 4:53:15 GMT -5
Would be good to know what you've got at least for your own records and so you can get better advice.
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coal
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by coal on Aug 10, 2018 13:25:40 GMT -5
Seems to be an 81cc bore kit though it states 82 on the box.Based on the measurements I'm getting about a 50mm bore and a 41.4mm stroke. Hope that helps. I think I am going to install this kit but tune it and just try and avoid over stressing the motor.
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Post by 90GTVert on Aug 10, 2018 13:55:24 GMT -5
Most common thoughts on the 50mm kits seems to be to go easier on them or use a little heavier rollers to keep RPM down if you expect them to last. There are people here with thousands of miles on 50mm kits.
I notice that kit does not include a head. Most don't advise using a stock head with those, unless perhaps they use multiple base gaskets to keep compression in check.
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coal
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by coal on Aug 10, 2018 16:50:37 GMT -5
I plan on going easy on the engine for sure. As for the new head I agree with that idea. Do you know of any head that will match? A link would be very helpful.
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ratdog
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 342
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Post by ratdog on Aug 10, 2018 16:57:30 GMT -5
First, your problem is most likely jetting, not the carb. Everyone of these little scoots I have seen came jetted too lean. Did you check your plug before you swapped carbs? You indicate the new carb is running rich, have you checked the plug? While I have only screwed with a couple, with stock jetting they ran so lean that you could be at wide open throttle, and the bike would actuly speed up a bit if you closed the throttle about 1/8 turn. Once broken in (say 100 miles), CORECTLY jetted, I would expect the little guy to give you at least 30 and maybe as high as 35. I’m sure that the orginal carb and your replacement carb take the same main jet. If the new carb is reall running rich, the jet from the orginal carb should lean it out. Of course it’s hard to tell on your bike, but having two carbs, you can do some screwing around for free now. Example, if the orginal jet in the new carb leans it out, then you can use a wire drill set to open up the jet a little at a time to get that nice tan plug we want. If the orginal jet is lean, try a #69 drill bit. That will give you about a #75 jet size When you do the BBK, after you get it running, it most likely will be a little lean. On the two bikes I’m working on, I’m all the way up to a 1/32 drill, which is about #85 (or use a 66 drill) I would not use the stock head with the BBK. You can get a “ big bore” head cheap, a problem you might run into is the rocker assembly. By our orginal head might have 69mm valves and the replacement head may have 64mm valves. I chose to order the head with 64mm valves and ordered a rocker assembly for 64mm valves. That way I wouldn’t have to guess. Before you install your big bore head, inspect the ports. I just got one that had sand still packed in the port. I’m guessing that it was left over from the casting process, but if we had not fought it, it would have screwed the engine big time. I say this a lot, but when you do your big bore bit, get some assembly lube from the auto parts store. Use way more then you think you need on the cylinder, the rings, and even the piston. Of course also drown the cam and followers in it too. On first startup, keep the rpms up. Don’t let it sit and idle like I see guys do on YouTube. Also keep in mind, the BBK is NOT going to suddenly increase your speed a lot. You have the same gearing as when it was 50 cc, you should get there a lot quicker, but I doubt your top speed will be much more the 40. (Of course if you can only go 25 now, that’s a huge inprovment. But most of these bikes can top 30 stock if correctly jetted. Around here, it seems that a lot of these little guys can get close to 35 stock. Resist the temptation to get a new CDI and new coil. In my experience they won’t help you at all and may make the bike much harder to start. I would suggest you work on one thing at a time. I see a lot of guys put a BBK, coil, cdi, plug,carb, cam, exaust, and air filter in all at one time and have no idea why it will only go 35 www.amazon.com/Chanoc-Cylinder-139QMA-Chinese-Scooter/dp/B07BWH7B6Y/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1533938794&sr=1-8&keywords=big+bore+head+for+50cc+gy6www.amazon.com/Wingsmoto-Rocker-Assembly-Camshaft-Scooter/dp/B0150VZ5OE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1533939082&sr=1-1&keywords=rocker+arm+for+50cc+gy6www.amazon.com/dp/B014T9BCJU/ref=psdc_404728011_t3_B07BWH7B6Ydont forget you are going to need a big bore head gasket for this too
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ratdog
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 342
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Post by ratdog on Aug 10, 2018 18:10:41 GMT -5
I was just taking another look at the add for your kit. I assume the measurements are bore and stroke. Well I can see the bigbore kit increasing you bore from 39mm to 51mm, but it’s real hard for me to figure out how it also increases the stroke!
Another thing I thought of... on both the kits I have, you have to put the big oil ring in first, then add the little rings on each side. If you put the little rings in first ( or just one first) you won’t be able to get the big ring in. May be different on your kit but I would try the big ring first
There are a lot of step by step vids on you tube. Worth watching. I would change a few thing in MY vid ( if I made one) but they will get you there
None of them mention it, but be sure you loosen up the valve adjusters before you tighten down the head.
Of course you know to tighten down the rocker assembly in an X pattern. I torque to 10nm, then to 15 NMU, and finally to 20
I always put a little anti seize on the plug threads
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coal
Scoot Junior
Posts: 17
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Post by coal on Aug 10, 2018 18:17:16 GMT -5
Thanks for everyone's input. This has been a learning experience. Now these big bore heads I'm looking at I notice there isn't a port for I believe it is called the "pair" system. Are there heads that has this port.
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ratdog
Scoot Enthusiast
Posts: 342
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Post by ratdog on Aug 10, 2018 21:44:59 GMT -5
Imho, getting rid of the pair system is a good thing. If you want to keep the pair system, just leave the bike stock and deal with the shitty running
Of course there are some “ responable” people out there but I’m not one of them. I would much rather have an engine run the way it was designed to run
In my experience, getting rid of it greatly improves how the bike runs on first startup. Maybe it’s only the bikes shipped to Michigan, but the stock bikes sent out here are about in useable for the first 5 min fete a cold start.
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Post by GrumpyUnk on Aug 12, 2018 11:09:34 GMT -5
The PAIR should not affect how the engine runs. If you follow the tube, it just directs some air into the exhaust port. Unless there is too much backpressure, it should cause no problem. I think poor running when first started is an indication that the enrichment mechanism is not working properly. Another possibility is the idle mix or rpm settings need adjustment. An intake leak that closes as things warm up is one other possibility. If the nuts holding the intake elbow to the cylinder head spacer are not tight, it will affect the way the engine runs by allowing un-metered air into the intake. tom
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